Front pads AND rotors need replacement at 23K mile??
#16
It's called a grinder. How do you think the rotors were surfaced before they were put on your car? They don't come out of the mold ready to be mounted. Most shops don't posses the right tools to resurface slotted/drilled rotors. But they can be resurfaced. Heck, even a pedestal grinder mounted on the compound rest of a lathe can do the job.
I wouldn't resurface any rotor on any of my vehicles... I'm just saying.
I'd bet the rotors are fine for another set of pads. Do they feel "wrong" when you use the brakes? If there's no pulsating or vibrations in the pedal or chassis while braking then I seriously doubt they need replaced. But can't say for sure without having inspected them in person.
I wouldn't resurface any rotor on any of my vehicles... I'm just saying.
I'd bet the rotors are fine for another set of pads. Do they feel "wrong" when you use the brakes? If there's no pulsating or vibrations in the pedal or chassis while braking then I seriously doubt they need replaced. But can't say for sure without having inspected them in person.
#17
I regularly track my hellcat. 10000 miles, on my fourth set of brakes and tires, haven't changed a rotor yet. I'm ready to change pads trackside if necessary. Still haven't changed a rotor. My gf is starting to get pretty aggressive with her RCF at the track. Same appx 10k miles, on her second set of tires (+ a set of pssc2 for track) and still on original pads. I am ready to change pads when needed, won't be changing rotors.
as previously mentioned, in today's cars, you should be able to feel a rotor (especially front) problem in the pedal response.
Mainly look for a pulsing or vibrating feel. Anything different from the normal feel should be suspect. A grabbing brake is also suspect.
as brakes are a very important feature, consult an expert if any of this is confusing. And I mean a real mechanic, not the Internet!
your dealer may not have your best interests at heart, get an independent opinion.
as previously mentioned, in today's cars, you should be able to feel a rotor (especially front) problem in the pedal response.
Mainly look for a pulsing or vibrating feel. Anything different from the normal feel should be suspect. A grabbing brake is also suspect.
as brakes are a very important feature, consult an expert if any of this is confusing. And I mean a real mechanic, not the Internet!
your dealer may not have your best interests at heart, get an independent opinion.
Last edited by Katrcf; 03-07-17 at 07:11 PM. Reason: clarification
#18
If you track your car, you will likely have rotor cracking. If it exceeds factory limits (more than 46mm), then you would be wise to replace the rotor regardless of thickness. More information about this is in the attachment. Print this out, hand it to your SA and ask to see in person which of the parameters is not in spec. You will save a lot of money.
#19
Unfortunately, no, they're not racing brakes. Not even close. But to comment on some of the questionable things in this thread - yes, rotors of any type can be resurfaced however, it's almost always a bad idea. You are only removing metal that could be absorbing heat (which is what brakes do - not actually stop the car which is what tires do), and unless you've overheated the brakes and developed cementite hot spots, there is no reason at all to remove a brake rotor from service until it is at minimum thickness (unless you just don't like the way it looks and you are OK with replacement costs - read "vanity").
If you track your car, you will likely have rotor cracking. If it exceeds factory limits (more than 46mm), then you would be wise to replace the rotor regardless of thickness. More information about this is in the attachment. Print this out, hand it to your SA and ask to see in person which of the parameters is not in spec. You will save a lot of money.
If you track your car, you will likely have rotor cracking. If it exceeds factory limits (more than 46mm), then you would be wise to replace the rotor regardless of thickness. More information about this is in the attachment. Print this out, hand it to your SA and ask to see in person which of the parameters is not in spec. You will save a lot of money.
#21
what year us your RCF? and how long ago did you have them changed? I have the squealing noise as well, but I'm at 17k miles didn't want them to say that it was to late due to mileage.
#22
I recently had my car at the dealer for service. They told me that my front pads would need replacement and also said that they have to change the rotors as well because they "just can't swap in new pads, even if the rotors are fine." After pushing them on replacing rotors for a simple pad swap, they then told me that my rotors had very little life left, "about 3mm of material left." I have never tracked the car. My commute is 85% highway. They also said my front tires have about 30% tread while the rears are at 70%. Does this seem like normal wear and tear or does something not add up?
#24
Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket pads? I have a set of Hawk 5.0's on the ISF and love them. The HP Plus pads were a bit much for the street as they make tons of dust and squeal. I looked to see if Hawk makes pads for the RCF and came up dry. I think the stock pads don't have enough bite when you are doing light braking. Don't get me wrong, they are great pads for stockers but I prefer a bit more bite. I was actually pretty impressed with the stopping distance and fact the car will do 1G of braking force.
#25
Pads can't change stopping distance. They only change your perception of how the brakes work by changing the feel of the pedal. If the pad is capable of locking the wheel, it is not the limiting factor in stopping distance. Tire selection has more to do with stopping distance than any other piece in the chain of devices we use to stop a vehicle.
Pad choices right now are pretty limited. I have Project Mu HC+800s on my IS and love them. They are the kind of pad that would make you feel like they improve stopping performance on a single stop (but I know they don't, they just need very little pedal effort to generate a full performance stop and require foot recalibration - they are so high friction they will overpower ABS and lock the wheels if you hit them hard). I had HPS on my Supra and replaced them with Project Mu HC because I like the feel on the IS better than any street pad I have used. Now the Supra has a very light pedal feel too. These pads are not available for the RC/GS F calipers.
If you want low dust, you won't find a pad with high friction. If you don't mind dust, there are a few choices, none are inexpensive.
Pad choices right now are pretty limited. I have Project Mu HC+800s on my IS and love them. They are the kind of pad that would make you feel like they improve stopping performance on a single stop (but I know they don't, they just need very little pedal effort to generate a full performance stop and require foot recalibration - they are so high friction they will overpower ABS and lock the wheels if you hit them hard). I had HPS on my Supra and replaced them with Project Mu HC because I like the feel on the IS better than any street pad I have used. Now the Supra has a very light pedal feel too. These pads are not available for the RC/GS F calipers.
If you want low dust, you won't find a pad with high friction. If you don't mind dust, there are a few choices, none are inexpensive.
#26
Just brought mine in for 25K service. The front pads are 4-5 mm and the pad backing is 3mm from rotor lips. The rear pads are 7-8 mm and all rotors are dished.
My SA told me that their new SOP is changing rotors with every brake pad change with the RC's. Was also told that since the rotors are slotted, they cannot be machined. I asked about the LSB and was told to do that, the front and back pads and rotors had to be replaced at my cost. Front pads and rotors -$1500, rear pads and rotors $1500. I asked about OEM front pads and rotors only, that cost is $1300. Looks like I am gonna do it myself
My SA told me that their new SOP is changing rotors with every brake pad change with the RC's. Was also told that since the rotors are slotted, they cannot be machined. I asked about the LSB and was told to do that, the front and back pads and rotors had to be replaced at my cost. Front pads and rotors -$1500, rear pads and rotors $1500. I asked about OEM front pads and rotors only, that cost is $1300. Looks like I am gonna do it myself
#27
I recently had my car at the dealer for service. They told me that my front pads would need replacement and also said that they have to change the rotors as well because they "just can't swap in new pads, even if the rotors are fine." After pushing them on replacing rotors for a simple pad swap, they then told me that my rotors had very little life left, "about 3mm of material left." I have never tracked the car. My commute is 85% highway. They also said my front tires have about 30% tread while the rears are at 70%. Does this seem like normal wear and tear or does something not add up?
if thats the case I need them at 10k damnit
#28
Just brought mine in for 25K service. The front pads are 4-5 mm and the pad backing is 3mm from rotor lips. The rear pads are 7-8 mm and all rotors are dished.
My SA told me that their new SOP is changing rotors with every brake pad change with the RC's. Was also told that since the rotors are slotted, they cannot be machined. I asked about the LSB and was told to do that, the front and back pads and rotors had to be replaced at my cost. Front pads and rotors -$1500, rear pads and rotors $1500. I asked about OEM front pads and rotors only, that cost is $1300. Looks like I am gonna do it myself
My SA told me that their new SOP is changing rotors with every brake pad change with the RC's. Was also told that since the rotors are slotted, they cannot be machined. I asked about the LSB and was told to do that, the front and back pads and rotors had to be replaced at my cost. Front pads and rotors -$1500, rear pads and rotors $1500. I asked about OEM front pads and rotors only, that cost is $1300. Looks like I am gonna do it myself
FWIW - RC F numbers:
Front brake pads Standard Thickness: 9.75 mm (0.384 in.)
Minimum Thickness: 1.0 mm (0.0394 in.)
Front rotors Standard Thickness: 34.0 mm (1.339 in.)
Minimum Thickness: 31.0 mm (1.220 in.)
Rear brake pads Standard Thickness: 11.68 mm (0.460 in.)
Minimum Thickness: 1.0 mm (0.0394 in.)
Rear rotors Standard Thickness: 28.0 mm (1.102 in.)
Minimum Thickness: 26.0 mm (1.024 in.)
Finally, there is no reason the rotors can't be machined, but why would you want to? All you are doing is removing the metal that is there to absorb heat. I never machine rotors, and I've never seen a rotor turned on a brake lathe that I would run on my car. The factory uses a centerless grinder to surface the rotors, and the same centerless method will resurface them with an identical finish to what the factory provided. The hard part is finding someone who will do this, but IMHO it is the only way to fully restore braking performance if you insist on cutting your rotors.
#29
rockauto has Stoptech Slotted Centric Rotors for the RCF for $86-$120 (rear/front)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896
and Stoptech Centric pads for $38-$56 per axel, be advised the rears require a separate purchase of the "wear sensor wire" as it is not built into the pad:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684
rear wear sensor wire:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad+wear+sensor,10283
so ~$400 in rotors and ~$200 in pads, and 2 hours of your time to do it yourself, or $3000 at the dealer.. your choice.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896
and Stoptech Centric pads for $38-$56 per axel, be advised the rears require a separate purchase of the "wear sensor wire" as it is not built into the pad:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684
rear wear sensor wire:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad+wear+sensor,10283
so ~$400 in rotors and ~$200 in pads, and 2 hours of your time to do it yourself, or $3000 at the dealer.. your choice.
#30
Help!!!
i just took my car in bc it was squeaking. got it end of yr 2015 and it had 13,000 miles on it. they r telling me i need to pay $1250 to replace front brakesand rotors add tx and shop supplies. is that normal?? seems absurdly quick to need new brakes i dont think i even drive aggressively