Originally Posted by jhalb

i just took my car in bc it was squeaking. got it end of yr 2015 and it had 13,000 miles on it. they r telling me i need to pay $1250 to replace front brakesand rotors add tx and shop supplies. is that normal?? seems absurdly quick to need new brakes i dont think i even drive aggressively

Originally Posted by jhalb

"The technician recommends the following
Front brakes and rotors
$1249.97 add tx and shop supplies. Please let me know to proceed with additional repairs." Thanks for ur response above im gonna see what that does for me but is he just telling me rotors to just make me spend money?

Originally Posted by 4TehNguyen

more BS from the dealer, you dont have to get new rotors when you get new pads. I highly doubt youre below rotor min thickness at this mileage.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

I can only think of one way you would wear through pads and rotors in less than 15k miles, and you would need to have one foot on the brake, pressing down, the whole time you are driving the car. I seriously doubt you are doing that. If you are, you might reconsider how you are using the brakes.

Originally Posted by mjeds

rockauto has Stoptech Slotted Centric Rotors for the RCF for $86-$120 (rear/front)

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

and Stoptech Centric pads for $38-$56 per axel, be advised the rears require a separate purchase of the "wear sensor wire" as it is not built into the pad:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

rear wear sensor wire:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2015,rc+f,5.0l+v8,3310304,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad+wear+sensor,10283


so ~$400 in rotors and ~$200 in pads, and 2 hours of your time to do it yourself, or $3000 at the dealer.. your choice.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

Did they happen to mention how thick the pads are when new? At 4mm you are at 45% available wear remaining before you reach minimum thickness. Distance from the backing plate to the lip isn't a big deal at all. What is a big deal that isn't mentioned here is how thick are the rotors? I have heard many dealership horror stories telling owners they "only" had 4mm of pad left, but without knowing what the original thickness was, that number is meaningless. Same with rotors. They like to throw an absolute number at you thinking you know nothing about the brakes, and end up selling you rotors that still had 50% of their service life left. The tech sells them on eBay (yes, I have bought OEM rotors this way) and they are perfectly good - I used them at the track!

FWIW - RC F numbers:

Front brake pads Standard Thickness: 9.75 mm (0.384 in.)

Minimum Thickness: 1.0 mm (0.0394 in.)

Front rotors Standard Thickness: 34.0 mm (1.339 in.)

Minimum Thickness: 31.0 mm (1.220 in.)

Rear brake pads Standard Thickness: 11.68 mm (0.460 in.)

Minimum Thickness: 1.0 mm (0.0394 in.)

Rear rotors Standard Thickness: 28.0 mm (1.102 in.)

Minimum Thickness: 26.0 mm (1.024 in.)

Finally, there is no reason the rotors can't be machined, but why would you want to? All you are doing is removing the metal that is there to absorb heat. I never machine rotors, and I've never seen a rotor turned on a brake lathe that I would run on my car. The factory uses a centerless grinder to surface the rotors, and the same centerless method will resurface them with an identical finish to what the factory provided. The hard part is finding someone who will do this, but IMHO it is the only way to fully restore braking performance if you insist on cutting your rotors.

Originally Posted by Bayernfan

Thanks for the data. I knew the SA was full of s***. I asked for the thickness of the rotors when I handed over the keys to the SA. Never got that number, and I have no problem changing rotors(if they need it) with the pads since I do that with my AMG.

I figured that the techs probably sell stuff, thats why I always ask for all my parts that are replaced on my cars. One, to see if they really did replace it and two, so I can sell it if possible since I bought it in the first place!

Since the Brembos are easy to replace, I am definitely gonna do it myself and I think I am done with this dealer (even though they didn't charge me for the 25K service). I take my AMG to an indy shop so I think the RCF is headed there as well. Again, thanks and thanks to others who have posted links to replacement pads and rotors.

Originally Posted by lexusrus

That's pretty good.

I'll keep this in mind when the time comes for me to change my brakes.

Has anyone ordered these specific rotors and pads from this company? Did it all fit and work?

Originally Posted by mjeds

I've used stop tech on other vehicles in the past and never had an issue with fitment. if/when I do order the parts I'll post up, though I am not due for at least another 20K

Originally Posted by SpeedFreaksUSA

Given the options you listed I'm guessing this is Naz, right? If so I'll echo what we discussed on the phone to potentially help out anyone reading this thread who is in the same boat. Your case specifically is more difficult than most because the track you plan on attending is Road America and that track is *brutal* on brakes. There are multiple braking zones from well over 100mph every lap and that simply will never qualify as "light" track use even if you are in a beginner group. You want a pad that makes no noise, dusts as little as possible, works on a track and is cheap (don't we all ). Unfortunately Mike was on the right track with the old saying "low dust, low noise, track worthy performance... pick two". However with the addition of the Project Mu HC+800 and Endless MX72 I argue that has since changed to "track worthy performance, great street manners, inexpensive... pick two"

Basically here's how it breaks down:
1) Since you are very sensitive to dust and noise on the street the best option is to buy a nice low dusting street pad for the street and a track pad for the track. Best of both worlds with no drawbacks other than the time and labor (or money) to swap pads in and out for track events. We have quite a few guys doing this with HC+800 and NS400 as well as Carbtoech 1521 and XP12.

2) If swapping pads just isn't an option the Endless MX72 is the only pad compound that possesses the versatility you desire... but the cost of admission is a big turnoff to most.

Every other pad on that list is much more of a compromise. You will either have a pad that works well on the street but melts at the track or a pad that is compromised more on both ends of the spectrum (i.e. attempts to be a jack of all trades but dusts more than other street pads on the street and doesn't have the track capabilities that you would hope for).

I don't have high hopes for any of the true street pads on that list making it through an entire session without overheating, fading and wearing very quickly. But I think the Stoptech sports or the Porterfield R4-S have the best chance. I feel like I need to make it clear that although the stoptechs are very inexpensive and have a decently high temperature rating, they have a low initial bite and only moderate midrange torque. They work but they are not likely to "wow" you with the way they go about their business. Also note that they aren't particularly low dusting and consistently quiet on the street. I noticed you commented that they are possibly a cheaper substitute to the HC+800 but I need to drive the point home that they are not even in the same league as the HC+800... the differences across the performance board are staggering if you were to back to back them yourself. To put it bluntly the stoptechs will feel like a slightly watered down OE pad but with a better heat tolerance whereas the HC+800 feel much more like a purpose built sprint race compound. The Porterfields are more expensive but have a slightly lower temperature range but have a little better initial bite and are quiet and much lower dusting on the street. Project Mu NS400 will for sure struggle to make it though on a track like RA and HAWK HPS would undoubtedly give up in the first large braking zone they saw and send you into a tire wall (seriously, those pads have no business doing anything more aggressive than driving to get groceries). Winmax's supply chain is not the best and I can't even get a set of W2 for you for 5 weeks minimum so those are automatically out unless RR or someone else has them in stock for you. Even still I question their touted trackability but they are cheap so not arguing they aren't worth a shot down the road.

Matt M.

Originally Posted by flowrider

Concerning StopTech, you may want to read this post posted by site sponsor SpeedFreaks:



Lou

Originally Posted by mjeds

all well and good for those moving between track and street, pretty sure everyone in this thread is concerned with street and daily driving.. but good info, thank you.

Personally I prefer carbotech or hawk, but hawk doesn't make pads for the RCF and I can't find full sets of carbotech anywhere, Front pads from some site, rear pads from another and Rotors from two others, for whatever reason no one stocks all the parts front and rear for the RCF, and it is annoying as hell to me to have to buy maintenance parts from multiple vendors.