Guessing you have nothing else to say yesterday so this is the best you come up with today? Lol you still seem hot headed and can't even communicate without verbally abusing someone. The front was repainted? Shold I take a picture of my hood, front windshield, and etc? We're they replaced as well? We are talking about the front bumper from the beginning and now you want me to take pictures of different sections so you can find another reason to argue. Get lost boy and cool your head. Lol repainted! Find another excuses this debate is over you are just a hot headed mess.

 

I have an ultra white RCF.. I did full suntek on my car myself..saved me a ton. I have been detailing since 96'. Best protection is PPF. I would recommend using Cquartz classic for a budget and you can do on your own and is 70 a bottle. The cquartz can be applied to plastic and rubber and provide excellent weathering characteristics and maintain from deterioration. I have compared many others and honestly if you take care of it will last you very very long. $1950 is a complete rip off and can show tests over 4 years and gimmicks that make me question the coating industry. (And that is not even stating how many are black labeled from same manufacturer).

I have 4 premier coatings on my BBQ grill and heat cycled to test temperature, exposure to constant elements, and they all have held up equally.. comparing 70 to 500 coating, but that is just my own personal test.

I still wax in between because the properties of wax expels certain contaminants better than the some of the coatings and they both together provide excellent protection from elements.. But I would highly recommend to do Suntek PPFC, you personally coat with Cquartz classic, and wax, which is most cost effective suggestion I can provide.

I have seen the generation of car care products and sooo many of them are full of gimmicks when I personally paid for and tested and know the actual cost they are exceptionally inflated and over priced...They make it exclusive to detailers to protect brand which I understand, and have seen many apply lesser product to areas to maintain hydrophobicity to say hey look this last forever but truth is it doesn't (that's why I feel so many only offer warranty only if maintained at facility to apply products like reload to fill lost coat and provide false sense of security fro some ****ty detailers Ive seen) .... Behind the scenes shows a lot of misconception. Not to bad mouth proline detailers or industry but its soo gimmicky its unreal. Even after clients have paid hundreds without proper methods the coating still show similar flaws as clear coat.

 

I appreciate the info and it further motivates me to start detailing on my own.
For someone who wants to get started, how much would you think I should budget to get the proper equipment/products initially?
I will be looking up a lot of this information up, but I thought it'd be nice to hear from someone as experienced as you ('96) as well as a fellow Ultrawhite RC-F owner.
Thanks in advance!

 

funny how you keep ducking the hard questions. What's your business name again lol? Thought so.

​​​​​​​oh and you started the name calling. Moron. There. Now I'm done arguing with a spoiled child.

 

Ditching questions lol? We are talking about the front bumper because the opt wants a frontal protection with ppf. After I posted my pictures, you fail to respond to my post and made an excuse and told me to take pictures of other panels LOL. Get lost and you don't need to know my business. Verbally abusing cause you already know you lost the argument. Don't ever try to twist peoples words around or talk about some other random b.s. You fail to understand the whole logic of this argument. Not even the great Mike Phillips or Phil @ domain agree with your ideas that ppf are invincible. Also, my business name? Are you that stupid lol! Have a great day mad boy.

From,

Spoiled child that makes more money on his own and who also is a troll because his username is Spam

 

MisterEun, I literally started by polishing with my hand and trying compounds on parents vehicles and then cars that I would by and sell. I acquired components little by little as I found products that met my needs. Also, I READ ALOT and would also do my OWN test and evaluations and didn't necessarily take what others say as face value because theres a lot of content that can be filtered and I new there is a lot of advertisement factor involved to entice one to buy..

I suggest a site like detailedimage.com. the guys on there have great blogs, (but take with grain of salt, don't fall into any selling gimmicks of this is best product or other, but read through the ones with thorough test and unbiased feedback). Also run tests on your own...

I would suggest a beginner kit with a rupees 6 inch and 3 inch buffer with combination of pads. Menzerna FG400 and super finish 3800, then complete with Carpro Essence and then coat with Cquartz. This is a very genral suggestion but urge you to read. The random orbital rupees is very safe and would be very hard for you to damage your clear coat, but will allow you to correct and learn effectively. I suggest two different size buffers because certain angles require smaller pad to properly work area, and if you can afford invest in rupees 1-2 inch wireless for extremely tight areas and even interior pieces.

There are soooo many options PM me if youd like... if you have istagram my wife made me a page to post some stuff...Im an engineer but have a passion for detailing and help friends and post when I can. My page is under: international_auto_studios

 

That's awesome.
I was planning on buying a scrap piece of car in black for testing so I could clearly see the effects of what I would be doing.
Definitely going to rely on your suggestion for beginner kit though!
Thanks a bunch for all your advice and I will DEFINITELY PM you once I get started.
I just bought a house and everything's been finished minus the closing on Wed + I'll be leaving the country for 3 weeks so after all that's settled, expect me to bug the crap outta you!
Just followed your instagram too.
Thanks again.

 

My advice is to stick with products from the same company that you are going to use for your nano coating. Their products have been tested together and will produce the best results.

Example: I used CQuartz, which is a product from Carpro. So I decontaminated with Carpro Iron-X, used Meguire's clay bar, repaired the few deeper scratches with Meguire's Scratch-X (it works miracles), polished with Carpro Essence, and used Carpro Eraser for the final prep. I applied the CQuartz, and then finished with Carpro Reload.

I did not require paint correction, thanks to the recent job from my detailer. I could have probably even gotten away without decontamination. But I can be OCD at times.

I could have used a different paint decontaminator, but it's not a big deal. Everything up to the final polishing step can be done with just about any product you like. I would advise using a finishing polish from the same company though, unless you know what you are doing. I don't know everything about every product. But, for example, I know that you should not use a finishing polish that contains fillers before applying CQuartz. As the other member said, research. Time spent researching can save you tons of time and headache later. I spent a few days reading before I dove in. It was my first time applying a nano coating and it went off flawlessly. My detailer was impressed... But I know that it took me longer than it would have taken him to do it.

 

There are many good ceramic coatings, but the finished look is all in the quality of the prep work. Its not a process that can be rushed. Those that have experience know that. A good detail shop can't give an accurate price over the phone. They need to look at the finish on the car and see how much work is involved in the prep work. That is where the high cost comes in to the factor, not the cost of the product. All cars have different types of factory paint applied on them, its best to deal with a shop that understands what type of paint is on the Lexus. The paint today is very complicated compared to what it use to be. If you plan on installing paint film then having a paint coating applied later, make sure that the coating can be applied over the film for the best look. I've heard that some films can't be coated over, which just means they will need to go around it. I'm just saying if you plan on doing both, do some research ahead of time so both are compatible. All coating will need to be dressed up over time, from normal wear from the elements and washings.

 

Sorry for hijacking but noticed you're in Georgia too so does your guy also install custom wraps as well? I wanted some carbon fiber wrap done on my car.

If anybody else in GA has any recommendations on where I could get this done please chime in.

 

Appreciate the heads up on that!
Definitely something I hadn't thought of yet but sounds logical!

 

Sounds about right!
Lots and lots of man hours in prep is the plan!.