Supercharged Lexus RCF Playing With Chevy Corvette C7 Z06
06-12-17, 11:57 AM
#46
RCF500, would you be willing to do an oil analysis sample of your engine? If you can PM your address, number and name, I can get you a kit out in the mail today, free of charge. Rafi/Simon never sent back any of the free samples I sent them, not sure why. Either way, I want to see what this supercharger is doing to the combustion dynamic and wear on the engine.
The following 2 users liked this post by danielTRLK:
16GSF00336 (06-12-17),
cosmo1 (06-12-17)
06-12-17, 12:00 PM
#47
RCF500, would you be willing to do an oil analysis sample of your engine? If you can PM your address, number and name, I can get you a kit out in the mail today, free of charge. Rafi/Simon never sent back any of the free samples I sent them, not sure why. Either way, I want to see what this supercharger is doing to the combustion dynamic and wear on the engine.
The following users liked this post:
16GSF00336 (06-12-17)
06-12-17, 03:56 PM
#48
Pole Position
Motul would be another great choice btw... Keep in mind with more load on the motor it will wear more than the normal and that's where a true ester based oil comes in.. I honestly feel that with only 6psi to this motor it should be fine since we are talking about Toyota and not ford.
06-12-17, 04:48 PM
#49
Motul, Redline, Amsoil work well and do well. However the data shows Renewable Lubricant's oil smokes all three of those oils in wear protection and ring seal. Motul is very $$, they have a great formula, it looks like a home run, then at the end they cheap out on ya. Disappointing for the $$.
BioSyn HDMO 5W30 Low Ash has been the oil that set the bench mark on this engine, from multiple people on this forum using M1, amsoil and 300v. And you can then claim it's bio friendly at the race track lol
BioSyn HDMO 5W30 Low Ash has been the oil that set the bench mark on this engine, from multiple people on this forum using M1, amsoil and 300v. And you can then claim it's bio friendly at the race track lol
06-12-17, 05:30 PM
#51
ok, you must have misread my post. From dozens of UOA, BioSyn blew away many lubes in use ranging from Amsoil SS to Motul 300V, Redline, M1, and a few others.
I don't care about the formula or what it is or isn't. I want to know, did it serve it's job well, is this the best formula for this engine.
Motul is seriously overpriced for what it is, very expensive. Considering BioSyn is $30 versus $70 for 5 quarts and SMOKED 300V, there is no way anyone can justify 300V. Oh and the BioSyn is made from resources in our own country..........and get this BioSyn is blended with a group III, proving my point further. I don't read into what the oil companies tell me about their base stocks are made of this or that, show me what it will do. Plenty of Group III's out perform GIV and GV, one reason RLI had to partially use a Group III base stock.
I don't care about the formula or what it is or isn't. I want to know, did it serve it's job well, is this the best formula for this engine.
Motul is seriously overpriced for what it is, very expensive. Considering BioSyn is $30 versus $70 for 5 quarts and SMOKED 300V, there is no way anyone can justify 300V. Oh and the BioSyn is made from resources in our own country..........and get this BioSyn is blended with a group III, proving my point further. I don't read into what the oil companies tell me about their base stocks are made of this or that, show me what it will do. Plenty of Group III's out perform GIV and GV, one reason RLI had to partially use a Group III base stock.
The following users liked this post:
danielTRLK (06-12-17)
06-12-17, 05:44 PM
#53
Not about winning! It's about getting you guys the best oil! Only problem I will admit with BioSyn is if you don't buy it in big quantities, the shipping is about $9 additional, so you end up with about $39~ for five quarts.
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danielTRLK (06-12-17)
06-12-17, 06:33 PM
#55
Driver
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...-100-pao-ester
I have always found this is a great oil and me and most of my mates run it in our modified turbo/SC vehicles, as well as a lot of very high performance cars I know. We all came over from 300V as it was too expensive, although we always found it was good, this is the same and much cheaper.
Have never done oil analysis but usually changed my oil every 3500-5000kms depending which vehicle it was.
Cosmo1, although Toyota is known for engine quality, just remember, once you start playing with things they have a tendency to become sensitive so keep a close eye on it, over service it, and don't abuse it. Have seen plenty of busted engines from not doing that.
I have always found this is a great oil and me and most of my mates run it in our modified turbo/SC vehicles, as well as a lot of very high performance cars I know. We all came over from 300V as it was too expensive, although we always found it was good, this is the same and much cheaper.
Have never done oil analysis but usually changed my oil every 3500-5000kms depending which vehicle it was.
Cosmo1, although Toyota is known for engine quality, just remember, once you start playing with things they have a tendency to become sensitive so keep a close eye on it, over service it, and don't abuse it. Have seen plenty of busted engines from not doing that.
06-12-17, 07:06 PM
#56
Did anyone submit Amsoil "Racing" Series Oil for analysis, because I see that you covered there "Signature" Series? Just asking for comparison and thank you for your time on this subject...
Motul, Redline, Amsoil work well and do well. However the data shows Renewable Lubricant's oil smokes all three of those oils in wear protection and ring seal. Motul is very $$, they have a great formula, it looks like a home run, then at the end they cheap out on ya. Disappointing for the $$.
BioSyn HDMO 5W30 Low Ash has been the oil that set the bench mark on this engine, from multiple people on this forum using M1, amsoil and 300v. And you can then claim it's bio friendly at the race track lol
BioSyn HDMO 5W30 Low Ash has been the oil that set the bench mark on this engine, from multiple people on this forum using M1, amsoil and 300v. And you can then claim it's bio friendly at the race track lol
06-12-17, 07:44 PM
#57
I had a customer testing the Amsoil. I liked it, but RLI really shut it down.
That penrite, seems interesting but a 10W40 is too thick for this engine. Toyota allows for a 10W30 for racing but wants it back down to a 5W30 almost immediately after. You'll eventually gum up the engine and strain it with a 10W40 and cause additional wear.
This oil has a BN of 9.8 and a VI of 167 new. RLI's is 11.5 BN and 178 VI for a 10W. Granted these are paper stats but the VI is not a paper stat.
Would love to see a UOA with that Penrite!
That penrite, seems interesting but a 10W40 is too thick for this engine. Toyota allows for a 10W30 for racing but wants it back down to a 5W30 almost immediately after. You'll eventually gum up the engine and strain it with a 10W40 and cause additional wear.
This oil has a BN of 9.8 and a VI of 167 new. RLI's is 11.5 BN and 178 VI for a 10W. Granted these are paper stats but the VI is not a paper stat.
Would love to see a UOA with that Penrite!
06-14-17, 03:51 AM
#58
Pole Position
I was hoping rr-racing would chime in here on this maf issue with their new sc system for the rc-f since they claim they have done thousands of miles of testing with no issues..
06-14-17, 07:32 AM
#59
I'll keep that in mind...
I had a customer testing the Amsoil. I liked it, but RLI really shut it down.
That penrite, seems interesting but a 10W40 is too thick for this engine. Toyota allows for a 10W30 for racing but wants it back down to a 5W30 almost immediately after. You'll eventually gum up the engine and strain it with a 10W40 and cause additional wear.
This oil has a BN of 9.8 and a VI of 167 new. RLI's is 11.5 BN and 178 VI for a 10W. Granted these are paper stats but the VI is not a paper stat.
Would love to see a UOA with that Penrite!
That penrite, seems interesting but a 10W40 is too thick for this engine. Toyota allows for a 10W30 for racing but wants it back down to a 5W30 almost immediately after. You'll eventually gum up the engine and strain it with a 10W40 and cause additional wear.
This oil has a BN of 9.8 and a VI of 167 new. RLI's is 11.5 BN and 178 VI for a 10W. Granted these are paper stats but the VI is not a paper stat.
Would love to see a UOA with that Penrite!
06-14-17, 08:44 AM
#60
I switched to MOTUL 300V during my ~3000 mile oil change. About 1500 miles into it, I noticed some oil loss (.25 quarts). I topped it off and thought that maybe the engine was still breaking in and I switched to synthetic too soon. After about another 1K miles, I noticed more oil loos but not much. I then decided to switch back to cheaper oil, just some 5000 mile mobil. I sent some sample of the Motul 300V to Daniel and the result showed some fuel dilution, which I figured maybe is a good explanation for the oil consumption. It was also suggested that I switch to Shell fuel, I was using Chevron the whole time and only from the same pump as much as possible. I am now close to 2000 miles on the mobil cheap oil and Shell V power and have not noticed any oil loss. I am still undecided on what oil I will switch to on my next oil change, but will most likely give BioSyn a try.