When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is interesting that they don't do a long block. I would think they would be more comfortable having the engine assembled in a cleaner environment, plus having the heads torqued at the factory. When they used to warranty Viper motors where I used to work they would pull a complete motor and we would install a complete motor ( long block ). Crate one in and crate one out.
Exactly. They either did that or they pulled the motor, sent it to Arrow Racing for a full teardown and rebuild then put it back in. Had that done on my 2000 Viper GTS. The problem is that it means your Vip0er is down for a couple of months when they do it this way.
First of all thank you all for the kind words. I'm glad a number of you appreciate all pictures of the rebuild as I do, even though it's hard to see my car in pieces.
Now to the fun part. Need some help and ideas from the forum community.
I am very concerned that I found the techs had taken the new short block and the old cylinder heads covered in grime and put them together. Why would they take the chance and contaminate the new part? I was told it would be cleaned up. Not sure how they can guarantee that some of this grime didn't make it's way into the combustion chamber. Now they assure me that all the intake valves are in the closed position so no grime would have fallen into the combustion chamber. I would think that while timing the engine they would need to rotate the crankshaft a number of times. Ok so maybe I'm overreacting with the grime found around the intake tracks.
However, this is where I am really concerned. Take a look at the picture that shows oily grime/grit/dirt/ sand on the INSIDE OF THE INTAKE TRACKS!!!!. I've been thinking about this and this can't be good. How did this grime get there? This is not grime that carelessly the techs put there during the rebuild. Something has gone wrong and allowed this grime to get into the intake tracks before the rebuild even happed. How is this possible?
Is this why my engine has been consuming oil? A good amount of this grime and grit has probably made it's way into the combustion chamber and compromised the cylinder walls/ pistons/ piston rings? This can't be good. The techs claim this will all be blown out at startup? I'm not so sure about that. I'm sure a good amount of the grime and grit will also compromise the new block. And what about the cylinder heads, especially the valves and valve seats that have been exposed to this grime and grit. Initally I told the warranty manager he should replace the whole engine minus ancillary bits (alternator, water pump, ac compressor, etc.) to avoid these kinds of issue. But I guess they want to save money on parts???
Now I'm not so sure I should accept this warranty work. What to you guys think am I overreacting or do I have a legitimate claim?
Here is a picture of the new short block:
Here is a picture of the new short block with the cylinder heads taken from my old block:
Here is the dirt and grime I found around the intake tracks:
Here is the oily dirt and grime I found on the inside of the intake tracks:
I pulled some out onto the tip of my thumb:
Thanks again,
wolfman
i would say oil staining and some carbon build up is normal but looks like actual dirt. i would invest in a oil catch can from RR. Can you ask to have your heads cleaned? at least have the runners scrubbed.
So I was asked to visit the dealership this morning to witness how my concerns have been addressed. I have to say I was very impressed at the very thorough clean up along the intake runners performed by the techs. All the grime and grit is gone. I just hope that none of this contamination made its way into the combustion chamber as the new short block was mated to the old heads. It does appear that the intake valves remained closed while the engine was being timed.
I have another question regarding cylinder head bolts. I inquired as to why they are not being replaced. My understanding is that torque-to-yield bolts should be replaced. Lexus has replied that Toyota cylinder head bolts are typically not replaced. They are checked and reused. Could someone with access to the factory service manual please post what the actual manual says. Thanks.
I have another question regarding cylinder head bolts. I inquired as to why they are not being replaced. My understanding is that torque-to-yield bolts should be replaced. Lexus has replied that Toyota cylinder head bolts are typically not replaced. They are checked and reused. Could someone with access to the factory service manual please post what the actual manual says. Thanks.
FSM says the bolts can be reused. Only the headgaskets are mandatory change parts when tightening the cylinder heads.
I too am quite surprised they didn't vacuum all the junk off the heads before removing the intake manifold. I do that as a matter of course whenever I open an intake because junk will invariably fall down the ports. Yes, all the valves are closed when the head comes off and goes on, but it's a whole lot easier to get a clean build if you don't get it dirty in the first place.
Crickets..... Any tech that gave damn would have blown or vacuumed the debris off the outside before pulling the heads. That is unfortunate. As for the port build up, its not going anywhere easily but it's pretty weak sauce they didn't do the cleaning with the heads off.
My question is how did they know the valves are not contributing to the oil loss? If they are, this could still be an oil burner. Seems like a huge risk unless the bottom end is known for passing oil by the rings.
Now couple this with the intake runner cleaning whereby solvents could be left on the valve and stem diluting the stems lubrication and in my thinking, they made bad choices.
The least they should have done was to pull the valves, measure the guides and stems, clean and install new stem seals and put it back together.
But we are talking about dealership labor here.
Crickets..... Any tech that gave damn would have blown or vacuumed the debris off the outside before pulling the heads. That is unfortunate. As for the port build up, its not going anywhere easily but it's pretty weak sauce they didn't do the cleaning with the heads off.
My question is how did they know the valves are not contributing to the oil loss? If they are, this could still be an oil burner. Seems like a huge risk unless the bottom end is known for passing oil by the rings.
Now couple this with the intake runner cleaning whereby solvents could be left on the valve and stem diluting the stems lubrication and in my thinking, they made bad choices.
The least they should have done was to pull the valves, measure the guides and stems, clean and install new stem seals and put it back together.
But we are talking about dealership labor here.
Sorry OP. At least it will have a warranty.
very true i think he said the runners are now clean
personally when I pulled motors apart like that, or have my shop guys to it, the whole head gets a hot wash and all accompanying parts are cleaned before ever coming near the brand new shortblock... just basic good mechanics practice, and way easier to clean while apart.
Well good news so far. Got the car back yesterday. The techs at the dealership appear to have driven the car for around 150 km (half a tank of gas) to ensure that everything is in order. I was supposed to pick up the car last Saturday but I think something went wrong with the final checks on Monday. Finally yesterday Wednesday I was told to come pick up the car.
The engine feels strong and responsive. I was given a sheet with instruction to follow for the first 1000 km.
- no extremely high speeds
-avoid sudden acceleration
-do not drive continuously in low gears
-do not drive at constant speed for extended periods
I have followed these instructions closely. However, I believe it is very important to gradually increase the load on the piston rings and to always try to vary the load as much as possible. So far the only concern I have is an occasional whirring sound as the engine is put under load. It's very similar to that whirring sound I experienced on the old engine as it was warming up and a little to much load is placed on it before it is fully warmed up. With the old engine, once the engine was fully warmed up the whirring sound always went away. I does appear though that as the new engine continues to break in, the sound appears to be less and less. Maybe this whirring sound is blow by, valve train, I'm not sure.
wolfman
PS Btw the AC is very cold now. I was told the system had to be recharged. Also the car feels very tight now in the handling department. I was told they had to perform an alignment. Perhaps retorquing the entire front setup has made a differnce. Mind you it could just be the fact that I've been driving the NX200 SUV for the last two weeks; man our car is tight compared to that thing (handling, steering, suspension, brakes, etc.) :-)
One thing that is great about this thread is seeing the Transmission. That is a giant transmission, looks way over built. I like that. Does any one know how much it weighs?
07-05-18, 08:26 AM
