Painting your RC-F
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Painting your RC-F
I have a 2016 model and accidentally lost control of a 2x2 stud and despite its light weight it fell against the frame edge above the passenger door and dented it.
While the dent itself is a easy fix, the delema is in the repaint. Past cars is merely a blend. However the two shops I was rec'd too for higher end cars both say its some 4-stage paint job and can't just be a simple blend.
Shop 1: start with the strip above the door and wrap around both door and rear side windows and do your blend in the door and front/rear quarter panel removing all trim and replacing seals, etc. $1500.
Shop 2 - dealership - says strip above door may have an "edge" with top of car but its not a true panel edge thus can't guarantee that paint will properly adhere with time so refuses to paint without fully painting almost the ENTIRE car again (entire top, both sides blending both sides at quarter panels and hood and trunk. $5000.
Not a paint expert so don't know who to believe.....both cases seem crazy given the 2 inch dent from such a lightweight piece of wood in a "panel peice" and not the actuall frame of the car.
Any paint folks on here? or someone who had a similar issue?
While the dent itself is a easy fix, the delema is in the repaint. Past cars is merely a blend. However the two shops I was rec'd too for higher end cars both say its some 4-stage paint job and can't just be a simple blend.
Shop 1: start with the strip above the door and wrap around both door and rear side windows and do your blend in the door and front/rear quarter panel removing all trim and replacing seals, etc. $1500.
Shop 2 - dealership - says strip above door may have an "edge" with top of car but its not a true panel edge thus can't guarantee that paint will properly adhere with time so refuses to paint without fully painting almost the ENTIRE car again (entire top, both sides blending both sides at quarter panels and hood and trunk. $5000.
Not a paint expert so don't know who to believe.....both cases seem crazy given the 2 inch dent from such a lightweight piece of wood in a "panel peice" and not the actuall frame of the car.
Any paint folks on here? or someone who had a similar issue?
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No paint code in the quotes.
I asked about paintless dent repair but both indicated they didn't think the dent could be pulled out without damaging the paint.
I don't know much about paintless, but always thought it was where they suction cup and pull the metal to get it to "pop" back into shape. This I guess might have to be a drill, insert tool, and pull...or a glue insert tool and pull.
I went to the two shops my mechanic said he would trust a car like the RC-F at.....dealership and local body shop.
I asked about paintless dent repair but both indicated they didn't think the dent could be pulled out without damaging the paint.
I don't know much about paintless, but always thought it was where they suction cup and pull the metal to get it to "pop" back into shape. This I guess might have to be a drill, insert tool, and pull...or a glue insert tool and pull.
I went to the two shops my mechanic said he would trust a car like the RC-F at.....dealership and local body shop.
#7
For example mine is Infrared. There is the primer, then a metallic silver, then a red candy, then clear.. I had to get my bumper repainted due to a scratch of my own doing and they actually had to charge me more for the work just because of the paint. The issue comes with getting the paint to match. It is very hard to get the flake in the metallic layer to "fluff up" before applying the next layer of paint and this can cause enough of a paint mismatch that it is easier to paint the entire car.
Is your paint actually damaged or is just a dent?
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Correct. All the F paints are 3/4 stages of paint.
For example mine is Infrared. There is the primer, then a metallic silver, then a red candy, then clear.. I had to get my bumper repainted due to a scratch of my own doing and they actually had to charge me more for the work just because of the paint. The issue comes with getting the paint to match. It is very hard to get the flake in the metallic layer to "fluff up" before applying the next layer of paint and this can cause enough of a paint mismatch that it is easier to paint the entire car.
Is your paint actually damaged or is just a dent?
For example mine is Infrared. There is the primer, then a metallic silver, then a red candy, then clear.. I had to get my bumper repainted due to a scratch of my own doing and they actually had to charge me more for the work just because of the paint. The issue comes with getting the paint to match. It is very hard to get the flake in the metallic layer to "fluff up" before applying the next layer of paint and this can cause enough of a paint mismatch that it is easier to paint the entire car.
Is your paint actually damaged or is just a dent?
Thanks, Yes mine is also the infrared. The dent is maybe 3-4" long and lives on the bent edge of the metal trim above the passenger door. it runs perpendicular to the length and across the bend so a "pop" is not possible to pull out nor can it be accessed from the backside. Both shops said they would need to either glue or drill a tool used to pull the dent back to shape and probably more shaping work.
My concern is that the panel the dent lives on is the narrow panel that runs above and the length of the passenger door (take a look at your car to see what I am talking about). Now where that panel meets the top of the car there is a seam.
One shop says that seam is where they would stop the paint and then run along the length of the panel and down around the door blending into the quarter panels. The other shop claims the paint over time will not sick well at that same seem and would have to paint extending over the entire TOP of the car and paint BOTH sides of the car and blending at the quarter panels of BOTH sides of the car AND the HOOD and the REAR trunk. AKA painting the entire car.......for a dent that is 3-4" long on one side of the car.
I'd attach pictures but due to relections in lighting and the car shine, you can't see a dent.
Here is a doctored picture showing where the dent is located:
Last edited by lurch1; 10-23-20 at 08:44 AM.
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#11
If the paint hasn’t cracked or been removed from what caused t he dent I would discuss it with several PDR people and get a variety of opinions. I would strongly recommend you explore this option vs getting into painting the panel.
There is no blending our paint with another panel so any body shop that says they can is pretty much talking out of their ***. But I do see the issue with painting that area as it extends all the way down to the rear quarter.
There is no blending our paint with another panel so any body shop that says they can is pretty much talking out of their ***. But I do see the issue with painting that area as it extends all the way down to the rear quarter.
#12
I bought my car via my dealer who purchased it at a Manheim Auction. It had one large dent and a few small ones in that same area. My dealer's PDR guy was able to pull them all out. In fact, he pulled every ding/dent on the car for something like $120 as I recall.
#13
I have seen PDR done on some horrible damage and in hard to reach areas so you’ll be amazed and what a experienced tech can do.
They may need to pull headliner to drill a hole or somewhere in the area to get behind the damage with their spoons but that’s way better then body work/repaint. They will plug it with plastic caps or similar when done.
They may need to pull headliner to drill a hole or somewhere in the area to get behind the damage with their spoons but that’s way better then body work/repaint. They will plug it with plastic caps or similar when done.
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