LoSt180

The EPA test is on the "worst" driving mode that the car defaults to. So the test is in normal mode. This is why the car defaults to normal or eco when you start it up. If they allowed a user setting, then they'd be forced to run the tests in Sport+ and we all know that mileage is pretty low.

SailorTPD

Speaking of driving modes. I'm reading through the manual (I've had this one for 3 days now, so I'm still learning it) and look at the Custom mode. You can set the drive train to 3 settings, Normal, Power or Eco. You can set the chassis to Normal or Sport. You can set the A/C to Normal or Eco. The manual says that normal is suitable for city driving. Given the choices for custom mode, I selected Eco Drivetrain; Normal chassis; and Normal A/C and intend to use it around town going to the store, etc. Wish there were better technical descriptions of what "those engineers" actually activate/deactivate during each of the modes as well as when Otto/Atckinson timing changes occur. I can feel the difference in the chassis between Normal and Sport but can't feel any difference in the chassis between Sport and Sport +. -- does anyone know whether the car lowers itself between modes?. I can tell the difference in the throttle response between Eco and Normal and Sport and Sport +; once I get some experience I probably will be able to distinguish transmission changes in the different modes (but haven't driven it enough yet for that). Haven't detected any changes in the A/C and I wonder if those changes only occur if the Auto is selected. The manual tells you how to get into expert mode during the discussion on Launch, but I doubt I'd ever use that button (I'm an old guy of 71).

Yri

With AVS the car shouldn't change ride height at all between modes. All it does is adjust dampening to be more stiff when in sportier modes. Normal mode will be fairly stiff but not too stiff and Sport or Sport + mode will be a fair amount stiffer (though some have said even the stiffest it gets is not as stiff as the 2015-2016 MY's fixed suspension). The throttle response will also be different as in Sport+ mode the throttle becomes more linear across the entire pedal range. E.g in Normal mode, at 55% accelerator pedal position, the throttle body is only at 20%, where as in Sport+ mode the throttle body is at 50%. (Thanks for the throttle maps LoSt180)

The shift behavior is also different depending on the modes. The A/C difference between Normal and Eco modes is that in Normal mode the A/C compressor behaves based on what the occupants of the car demand of it, where as in Eco mode it will try and limit it's drag on the engine (even if the occupants are demanding ultra cold air).

Also let us try not to forget that this thread was initially for MPG and not driving modes, lol

05RollaXRS

I will try to simplify this by just specifying the major differences in all of the modes. Since you have 2020+ TVD as well, it also makes a dramatic difference in dynamics of the car. Like stated above, the car never changes ride height (if that is what you mean). The term chassis only refers to the AVS (adaptive variable suspension).

– Eco mode promotes environmentally responsible driving by controlling engine output, throttle opening and air conditioning settings to minimise fuel consumption. Engine response to accelerator inputs is automatically modulated and the air conditioning system’s compressor operation, airflow volume and recirculation function are adjusted for fuel efficiency.

– Normal mode is the default Drive Mode Select setting, automatically engaged on vehicle start-up.

– Sport S mode includes a new G-sensor AI-shift control, which uses information from the vehicle’s G-sensors to select the best gear ratio for high-performance sports driving. The transmission will automatically downshift during hard braking for a corner, hold a lower gear through the corner for greater control, and then select a suitable low gear on corner exit to give the driver greater throttle response.

– Sport S+ mode builds on these sports driving benefits by performing quicker downshifts than Sport S and by consistently holding the engine at higher speeds. In addition, Sport S+ automatically adjusts the weighting/speed of the electric power steering to better suit circuit driving conditions and activates the VDIM system’s new Sport mode.

Auto vs manual mode: In SPORT+ with manual mode on, the car locks up the torque converter. That is to give a very mechanical engagement feel so your head would snap during shifts especially while shifting up and the engine would engine-brake hard on aggressive downshifts. The downshifts especially under braking, has aggressive rev-matching/thortlte-blips.


TVD:

1. Standard: This is the system’s default setting and is best suited to managing agility and stability in everyday driving conditions.
2. Slalom: The Slalom setting maximizes steering response and is best suited to tight hairpin bends and twisting back roads.
3. Track: As the name suggests, ‘Track’ mode is best suited for circuit driving, placing an emphasis on high-speed stability.

Some notes:

- My RCF has fixed suspension and never driven one with AVS. It is the earliest iteration so it is by default stiff and based on the types of roads you drive on, it could get harsh especially if you have very aggressive tires on. I know from people who drove both that the 2017 - present with AVS is always adjusting for smoothest driving experience so even when the car is in SPORT+, it is still dynamically adapting to the driving conditions to balance between stiffness without harness.

- Throttle response was changed in 2020+ RCF where Lexus favored more linear response over the dramatic "surging" feel in the 2015 - 2019 where the throttle opened a lot more in the first few inches in SPORT+ mode. Now, it opens in a more linear fashion in SPORT+ mode.

To keep things simple, if you want to enjoy a spirited drive, just put the car in SPORT+/MANUAL mode and TVD in slalom for the streets. It is the one I find the best for driving fun