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I don't necessarily see a $5k drop in 6 months time being particularly realistic or likely, but then again, I also didn't expect that my car (which was purchased used in 2018) would be worth $10k more in 2021 ...point being, you can't accurately predict the future, so if you want the car now, buy it now because it's all really just speculation.
Things generally cost more as time goes bye. When I started driving, gas was 28 cents a gallon, for example. Sure there are minor fluctuations and if you are lucky, you can buy on a dip...My grandpa gave me good advice, budget luxuries first but avoid debt as much as possible.
Wow! Good find. A garage queen with only 4000 miles on it. I can understand the $56K asking price as it is practically brand new. Good to grab a 2015 or 2016 especially with carbon/TVD since RR racing tune is available only for these two years. As a matter of fact, RR racing tune is my next mod as a project during the winter months in the garage.
So what's the RR racing tune advantage and how does it work?
So what's the RR racing tune advantage and how does it work?
It will give more throttle response, more torque (+17 ft-llbs to the wheels) and more horsepower (around +8 HP to the wheels at the top rpm), but they are only available on the 2015 - 2016 model years so far as the AVS in the 2017+ changed the ECU for suspension damping calculations.
It will give more throttle response, more torque (+17 ft-llbs to the wheels) and more horsepower (around +8 HP to the wheels at the top rpm), but they are only available on the 2015 - 2016 model years so far as the AVS in the 2017+ changed the ECU for suspension damping calculations.
I see, it probably worth it if you do hard driving or tracking.
I see, it probably worth it if you do hard driving or tracking.
Yeah, it makes the car more fun at slower speeds because you have more available earlier. Some of it I already achieved with the AFE Power Sprint Booster v3 throttle controller. It makes the torque to throttle mapping more "front loaded" meaning and direct so you simply have more direct relation of the throttle to how much power that is being made available. It makes the car much for fun as you can get away off the line so much faster because everything is available much sooner. If you don't have a 2015 - 2016, you can still get the AFE Power Sprint Booster v3 as it is plug-n-play and can be installed in the garage. It would not add any HP, but it simply would allow you to exploit more of the power instantaneously. Once you experience it, you will not go back.
As for the tune, I mod my car as a hobby so I experiment with things to see how they change the behavior and experience of the car. I am not really prep'ing it for the track. I am not doing racing or a regular track driver. It is nice to have all of the amazing capability available, but I only do spirited driving at the most once in a while.
Yeah, it makes the car more fun at slower speeds because you have more available earlier. Some of it I already achieved with the AFE Power Sprint Booster v3 throttle controller. It makes the torque to throttle mapping more "front loaded" meaning and direct so you simply have more direct relation of the throttle to how much power that is being made available. It makes the car much for fun as you can get away off the line so much faster because everything is available much sooner. If you don't have a 2015 - 2016, you can still get the AFE Power Sprint Booster v3 as it is plug-n-play and can be installed in the garage. It would not add any HP, but it simply would allow you to exploit more of the power instantaneously. Once you experience it, you will not go back.
As for the tune, I mod my car as a hobby so I experiment with things to see how they change the behavior and experience of the car. I am not really prep'ing it for the track. I am not doing racing or a regular track driver. It is nice to have all of the amazing capability available, but I only do spirited driving at the most once in a while.
Thanks for the explanation. So is it fair to say more horsepower at lower revs? I only spent few days with mine and I did notice how it takes couple of seconds to transform it from a lady to a beast (Normal Mode). I'm still discovering it. BTW, anything I should be watching out for being 2015 and has 6,300 miles? I know that the fuel pump issue was replaced or fixed at the dealer previously.
Thanks for the explanation. So is it fair to say more horsepower at lower revs? I only spent few days with mine and I did notice how it takes couple of seconds to transform it from a lady to a beast (Normal Mode). I'm still discovering it. BTW, anything I should be watching out for being 2015 and has 6,300 miles? I know that the fuel pump issue was replaced or fixed at the dealer previously.
Yeah, it is highly customizable. You can adjust it many ways (green or sport mode level 1 to 9 and red or ace mode level 1 to 9). It feels like SPORT+ mode amplified many times over. I use red (race mode) at level 4 or 5 and it is more than enough. Never tired race model level 9 as it will probably be too much and cause the car to go sideways everywhere. The response becomes almost telepathic as if you think about it and it happens. Say,, you get off the line and take a left turn. It takes literally 1 or 2 inch of throttle movement for the car rip through the turn and then you instantaneously accelerate out with another 2 inch of throttle movement before the engine races towards the redline and you have to shift up quickly to not rev it high in traffic. All of it in one gear.
Yeah, it is highly customizable. You can adjust it many ways (green or sport mode level 1 to 9 and red or ace mode level 1 to 9). It feels like SPORT+ mode amplified many times over. I use red (race mode) at level 4 or 5 and it is more than enough. Never tired race model level 9 as it will probably be too much and cause the car to go sideways everywhere. The response becomes almost telepathic as if you think about it and it happens. Say,, you get off the line and take a left turn. It takes literally 1 or 2 inch of throttle movement for the car rip through the turn and then you instantaneously accelerate out with another 2 inch of throttle movement before the engine races towards the redline and you have to shift up quickly to not rev it high in traffic. All of it in one gear.
Wow, sounds like a dramatic difference and all comes from modest boost in horsepower and torque?
Also, is this performance improvement achieved at low RPM?
Wow, sounds like a dramatic difference and all comes from modest boost in horsepower and torque?
Also, is this performance improvement achieved at low RPM?
Yeah, it just makes a difference in how the relation of the throttle movement is relative to the torque delivery so it makes the car's midrange feel stronger and it revs faster. It is a similar effect as a lighter flywheel with a lot less inertia. As is the case of simple physics, getting the weight moving is where the perception of torque comes and this does exactly that. It makes that particular instant whether from dead stop or from a roll where you instantly want to call on power to get the weight moving as quickly as possible, it makes so much more available at that time.
It is not increasing any HP. It simply is making it more instantaneous and more in direct relation to the throttle movement as if things are happening in real-time rather than an action and then reaction type of sequence,. The net effect is as if you are carrying 300 lbs less in the slow speed driving conditions where you are frequently stopping and starting as well as doing tight maneuvering. Hope that helps.
Just as an update, I ended up going with my first option. Seems like car did have maintenance records after all and one owner which are hard to come by. My second option with Nebula Grey and red interior had a car crash undisclosed by Carmax.
Had it checked by my mechanic and it appears rotors might need changing and valve cover for passenger side is leaking a little and needs a new gasket but I think it will be covered by Carvana.
It seems a bit strange why a valve cover would be leaking at that low of mileage, of course there are such things as factory defects (I've heard of pinched gaskets being sometimes installed from the factory), it would be a good idea for you yourself to take a visual inspection of the valve cover. As for the rotors, they can be a bit costly, especially when you pair them with new pads. Not sure if OEM pads+rotors are worth the price.
Just as an update, I ended up going with my first option. Seems like car did have maintenance records after all and one owner which are hard to come by. My second option with Nebula Grey and red interior had a car crash undisclosed by Carmax.
Had it checked by my mechanic and it appears rotors might need changing and valve cover for passenger side is leaking a little and needs a new gasket but I think it will be covered by Carvana.
It seems a bit strange why a valve cover would be leaking at that low of mileage, of course there are such things as factory defects (I've heard of pinched gaskets being sometimes installed from the factory), it would be a good idea for you yourself to take a visual inspection of the valve cover. As for the rotors, they can be a bit costly, especially when you pair them with new pads. Not sure if OEM pads+rotors are worth the price.
Yes, very strange indeed.
Will be difficult to check for me since I don't yet have the proper equipment to lift it up, just a regular bottle jack
Vehicle has 40k miles and the rotors are lipped so that was the main argument but I read on another post here that they could still be within spec, just have to find a way to measure them.
Just wait. These cars aren’t classics. The car market is stupid right now. Don’t spend any more money on a depreciating asset any more than you have to.
10-12-21, 12:48 PM
