I'm replacing struts (KYBs), springs (with H&Rs), boots, and bar end links on an 02 AWD with 134k miles. The rust isn't bad at all but I was afraid of breaking a bolt(s) on the sway bar bushing clamps and creating more work as many have posted here. Is that mainly on the rear and and the front ones don't break as much???

The bushings look OK from the sides, no cracks or obvious signs of wear, so should I replace them? Or from the skinny sway bars that we have, new bushings probably won't make much of a difference? What's your experience after replacing them?

I do have 235/55/18s rx330 wheels for the summer and the stock wheels with winter tires. I have pb blastested all the nuts and bolts yesterday in preparation for the work in a few weeks.

Thanks

 

I have the KYB struts and H&R springs on my 2002 Highlander, so far so good 4 yrs later! Handling will be night and day.

What worked the best for me was wire-wheeling all the rust off first, then soaking the bolts overnight. To give them even less of a chance to break, I also heated them up until red hot from behind where the threads are - worked great. I think it’s worth it to do the bushings too as mine were pretty chewed up.

The fronts held up better on my cars but I decided to do them anyway. Those may want to be soaked for longer as if they snap you may be SOL as they thread into the subframe.

Let me know if you need any part numbers for the strut hardware or for aluminum sway bar end links

 

Great idea to heat them up, i don't have a torch but i can use a heat gun on high to help wick that penetrating oil. Also give it a whack or two. The rust isn't bad at all for a 20 yr old, guess the regular under chassis power washing in the middle of winter all these years paid off. I did order new front and rear bolts for the bushing brackets. I'll also chase the capture nut threads to clean them up.

I'll definitely be more careful with the fronts like you said as they are mounted on the subframe. Worst case, drill them out from the bottom i guess.

Glad to hear the H&Rs are going strong, yeah i was hoping to get rid of the boat like handling, progressive springs and with the 18s hopefully this will do the trick without going overboard.

Thanks but i think I got all the parts lined up, i might just reuse the front lower spring isolators as the OEM ones are $30 each, i found some generic ones but i don't know if I trust those.
As for the sway bar bushings looks like lexuspartsnow has the best prices, unless someone has a better source.

 

My position is .. if it aint broke leave it alone. If it is compromised or you are very sick of it, then give it a thought. Keep in mind at times the cure can be worse than the ailment. In the extreme case where it is torn/broken then I would not hesitate in replacing it.

Personally I have never developed the feel of is the faster breaking or freeing up. For me it has always been a broken bolt.

Salim

 

Drench it in Aerokroil for a few days and then try unfastening. Aerokroil and not PB Blaster.

 

Salim, that's what I was initially thinking. However with the new struts and springs I would hate to do an "incomplete" job. The car is in Nevada though this is my ski vehicle (equip. w/winter tires) and the one we take we when go up the mountains specially on snowy/icy days the car is pretty much rust free as I make sure I power wash the under chassis whenever it gets warm enough in the winter. I will start with the rear sway bar bushings, which are smaller bolts and if I break one, worst case the bracket can be replaced. Most of the posts that I read about breaking bolts were from the rust belt, so hopefully i should be fine. i will jack up the car the night before and hit the nuts and bolts with p. oil again before working on the car the next day. Thanks!

edit: I did order replacement bolts for the sway bar bushing clamps, what's another $10 for 8 bolts.

 

Just one tip:
Remember to untwist and re-twist half way and gradually increase the angle. If you can get an impact in there, you will increase your odds and gradually work up the impact.

Salim

 

Unsure where you're located, if minimal salt on your roads, the bolts will likely come out without issues.
Early RXs used better fasteners than did later version.
i recently R&R'ed an AWD transmission in a 2002 @ 220k and found things tight, but no bound up bolts at all. Even the exhaust unbolted without issues.
Soak them in Kroil or PB Blaster and try it. Might be surprised...just don't break it off it bound up.
The little butane hand torches will allow you to heat the bolt thru a few cycles. Let it cool completely and heat it again. The expansion and shrinking generally loosens rusty bolts.
When changing rear struts, every bolt came out...no problemslems at all.
if a bolt backs out a few turns and begins to bind up, stop and soak the bolt under the head. Even add a bit of heat, but be careful spraying penetrating oils on red hot bolts and/or near open flame. Set something on fire. Hot is OK and will help wick up the oil. Be patient and work the bolt back and forth. Keep it wet unless the fire wrench is in use. If the problem bolt is hotter than the surrounding area, cool it down. The bolt should be cooler than the female threads.
Be careful around fuel tanks and hoses too. Weathered fuel hoses are dangerous.

 

Thanks for tips! Much appreciated!