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There's nothing special about that lower mounting bolt. It's just in a difficult location. Use a mirror and light to get a better view if necessary. If you run out of patience and are due for a new belt too then cut the old one off for better access to the lower bolt.
1. Make sure the battery is disconnected. The capped wire is live without fuse.
2. Do not turn the tension adjusting nut.
3. Loosen the pivot nut/bolt and other securing bolt. Once the alternator can potentially move, then loosen the tension adjusting nut. If you try to turn the adjusting nut, without going movement option, you will destroy the adjusting bolt.
On assembly, lightly face the securing nut + bolt. Allow movement to adjust tension.
a) Adjust tension.
b) Tighten the securing nut/bolts of the alternator.
I remember using different size drives to make it easier i.e. using 1/2" drive and sockets to loosen to bolts, then 1/4" to allow a little more room to work. Also, the right extensions help with removal and access as well. Take your time, stop and walk away if you get aggravated, then go back and make it happen.
There's nothing special about that lower mounting bolt. It's just in a difficult location. Use a mirror and light to get a better view if necessary. If you run out of patience and are due for a new belt too then cut the old one off for better access to the lower bolt.
Thanks, I see now the benefits of using the belt space.
1. Make sure the battery is disconnected. The capped wire is live without fuse.
2. Do not turn the tension adjusting nut.
3. Loosen the pivot nut/bolt and other securing bolt. Once the alternator can potentially move, then loosen the tension adjusting nut. If you try to turn the adjusting nut, without going movement option, you will destroy the adjusting bolt.
On assembly, lightly face the securing nut + bolt. Allow movement to adjust tension.
a) Adjust tension.
b) Tighten the securing nut/bolts of the alternator.
I remember using different size drives to make it easier i.e. using 1/2" drive and sockets to loosen to bolts, then 1/4" to allow a little more room to work. Also, the right extensions help with removal and access as well. Take your time, stop and walk away if you get aggravated, then go back and make it happen.
Thanks, good advice - there were times yesterday afternoon that I had to walk away, take a cup of tea, mowed the lawn a bit to cool myself down and lower/remove frustrations.
Thank you all for insightful and kind advices. Here is a summary of my current standing:
#1 bolt is loose with a few turns; still on there.
#2 bolt is not budge.
#3 tension adjust bolt is loose a few turns.
My difficulty is to loosen the #2 bolt. Is this the right bolt?
Here are the tools used yesterday:
Here is a photo using the $40+ scoping LCD device to see the under alternator:
I am trying to get penetrating oil to the open end of the #2 bolt under the alternator. The small spray can is still too big to get to the spot.
Do you have the replacement alternator in front of you? If not pull a picture and it will show you the two ears.
You can very easily identify the mounting location on it. BY memory they are 14mm. One attachment point is pivot [only allows alternator to swing] and the other has a curved slot in the bracket. These two when loosened will allow the alternator to move closer or further to increase/decrease the tension. Even when you loses the fasteners [pivot and slider] the tensioner would prevent the alternator from getting closer. The undo the lock and start reducing the tension.
The tensioner has a lock and adjustable length long bolt. 12/10 mm
Do you have the replacement alternator in front of you? If not pull a picture and it will show you the two ears.
You can very easily identify the mounting location on it. BY memory they are 14mm. One attachment point is pivot [only allows alternator to swing] and the other has a curved slot in the bracket. These two when loosened will allow the alternator to move closer or further to increase/decrease the tension. Even when you loses the fasteners [pivot and slider] the tensioner would prevent the alternator from getting closer. The undo the lock and start reducing the tension.
The tensioner has a lock and adjustable length long bolt. 12/10 mm
Salim
Salim: From what I can observe and guess, the #2 and #3 bolts are going through a block orthogonally so the #3 bolt adjust tension while the #2 bolt locks(?) on a position. I am unable to see the other mounting ear of the alternator from the the side of #2 and #4 bolts, but can see through the scoping camera:
My difficulty is now on which of the bolts (#2 or #4) that goes into the alternator's mounting ear. I have yet trying to loosen the #4 bolt.
Here is another photo of what under the alternator near the front; notice the scoping camera's head, which was positioned to take the back and under alternator photo above.
It's in this picture. The adjustment lock bolt goes horizontally through the same metal block that the adjustment bolt goes through https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l#post10923774 (scroll down to 2nd picture)
There are some tops for removing it in the thread. I think generally I use a ratcheting box end wrench and/or a 1/4" drive socket with a short extension past the belt, 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, 3/8" drive ratchet with long handle.
Yesterday, 12:44 PM
