Lee S.

Tried the search button but didn't come up with anything. I'm looking for any DIY instructions on changing the transfer case fluid.

Are there separate Fill and Drain plugs? Not to sound stupid, but I'm assuming the transfer case sits right behind the trans axle and has the rear drive shaft connected to it....Correct?

I see it is recommended to use 90w hypoid gear oil....Any problem using full synthetic (Mobil One perhaps?) or should I stick with toyota/lexus brand.

51K on the clock and just changed out 4 qts of tranny fluid which didn't look to healthy. Figured I'd address the trasfer case next.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Lee

Tammy

15/16 Plugs - one is accessed over the rear sub frame with a couple of extensions, it faces the
rear...just below the fill plug within a few inches and facing the right side is the drain plug. Only
the sub frame is in the way to fit a socket on the drain plug. I found that by jacking up the right
front slightly, I had clearance to fit a 15/16 open end wrench squarely on the plug. And mine were tight! I always recommend loosening the top plug first to insure you can prior to loosening the drain plug. There will be compression washers under the plugs, take care not to misplace them. The capacity is just less of one quart. I retightened my plugs to 40 Ft Lbs. They were about 80 Ft Lbs, using a double bar pointer torque wrench. Way too tight..

I used Castrol Hypoy C GL-5 80W-90 Gear oil as stated in owners manual. Mabee 75W-90 in
colder climate. Five dollars a quart, and a hand bottle pump is handy for the transfer and rear
filling.

It is also a service fill for my rear Limited Slip Differential. That is accessed with 10mm Hex (Allen type) socket, 3/8 drive. I found a 15 deg swivel extension helped with loosening the upper fill plug, along with jacking the right rear some to allow for breaker bar and ratchet swing. Again
there were compression washers under both plugs and they were also very tight.! I also
retightened the plugs to 40 Ft Lbs and the rear differential took a little less than one quart.

Lee S.

Wow...thanks Tammy....just what I was looking for.

I have 2 qts. of brand new Valvoline Durablend 80W-90 Gear oil. This is a blend of synthetic and conventional oils. The label says it meets or exceeds GL-5 and is recommended for all hypoid differentials (conventional and limited slip) where GL-5 is specified. Do you think it would be okay to use this in both the transfer case and rear differential? I was originally thinking of going 100% synthetic with Mobil One or something similar but was concerned that full synthetic might be too slippery for the transfer case clutches....any thoughts on this?

Once again...appreciate your help.


Lee

Tammy

The GL-5 spec is what the refill needs to be. And as long as it appears to have a good color as you pump it in...
The P/N (Toyota) 12157-10010 is for the compression ring or gasket, drain plug ... $1.50 each, for all four drain plugs. I reused mine and purchased replacements for next time.
When you refill the units, remember to insure the RX is level, front to rear and side to side.
With over 50K. I wouldn't change the "type" of fluids to synthetic, stick with "dino"...what Lexus and Toyota recommends for weight and you can't go wrong.

As you are changing fluids. the new Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC); the Pink, available from Toyota or Lexus for $15 - $30 a gallon. It is premixed 50/50 and is a drain/pour job. The Long Life Coolant, the Red, is speced for 2 years or 40K... The Pink is 5yrs or 100K miles. You will need 3 Gal... Much cheeper than a new radiator or water pump. The coolant acts as a seal lubricant in the water pump, so, Never run plain or distilled water thru this system. The label on the Pink states to use the coolant to flush the system and add NO water, as it's premixed. The SLLC PN - 00272-SLLC2 It states it is the Factory Filled Pink Fluid on the jug.

Remember to document the fluid changes in you Supp Owners Manual ...

Rick

Lee S.

Rick:

Thanks for the 'heads up' on the compression rings and the coolant. The part #'s will be a big help as I will be going to the Toyota dealer and will pick them both up. You must be reading my mind on the coolant as I planned on doing this next. After that it's power steering and brake fliud (I just replaced the pads by the way). Then i should be 'good to go' for a while as far as the fluids are concerned.

Thanks for all you help.

Lee

RA030724

iTrader: (1)

I've used Mobil 1 engine oil and Mobil 1 gear oil in all our Toyotas (Cressida, Celica GT-S, Corolla GT-S, RAV-4, Tacoma, Tundra) over many years, both in transfer cases and front & rear differentials. Besides far better lubrication in the winter (Indiana), I have found less engine wear and better mileage. I am already running Mobil 1 engine oil and will change the gear oil this spring in both the axles and transfer case on my RX-330. I always wait until I get 5K on the vehicle before changing to synthetics. Never had a problem. In fact, our local Toyota dealer offers Mobil 1 as an option if you have changes done there.
Oliver

Lee S.

Oliver:

I am running presently Mobile One 5W30 engine oil...

I guess the question is whether it's to late to change the fluid in both axles and the transfer case on a 2000 RX 300 with 51K to sythetic? Or should I just change it with conventional 'Dino'?

Lee

RA030724

iTrader: (1)

I changed the rear differential and manual transmission on one of my cars when it had about 65K on it. The original fill was black. I filled with Mobil 1 gear oil, ran about a month to flush, drained and refilled. Never touched it after that. That car had an LSD and it actually ran quieter. Mobil 1 GL-5 gear oil is rated for LSD use. I get mine at the local AutoZone store. Do replace the gaskets and use a torque wrench on the plugs so as to not strip them out. Some of the components are cast alloy and can strip.
Oliver

salimshah

I think the stuff from factory gets a spray of something on top of components. Just breaking the oil filter for the first time was a bear.

Salim

Lee S.

Rick...you've been soooo helpful but I do need to ask you one more question....sorry if I'm overextending my welcome.

Can you tell me the procedure for flushing out the old coolant with the new pink 50/50 premix SLLC coolant? When I've done this on other cars I have always installed a Prestone 'T' in the heater hose and flushed the system with a garden hose. This of course leaves tap water in the system to which I then added 100% antifreeze to bring the mixture up to a 50/50% coolant/water ratio. I am not sure at all how to flush the RX with a 50/50 SLLC premix.

Any help is once again appreciated. Thanks.

Lee

Tammy

Replyed on new posting ... "Repl Toyota Red with Toyota Pink" - Rick

TunedRX300

Tammy, I could not loosen the fill plug with a regular 10mm Allen wrench. 3/8 hex socket sold at Sears does not seem to be small enough to slide into the hex hole, let alone to connect 15 deg swivel extension. Could you post either a picture or more detailed descriptions of tools you used?

Tammy

You'll need to rotate the drive (axle) shaft between two of the four mounting bolts of the drive (axle)shaft to differential mounting. Then, remove the rear wheel so you can get some weight behind the 1/2 breaker bar with 3/8 reducer and the extension. Mine was so tight the first time I thought I was going to break the socket, but it held. The Sears number on the 10mm is GK42679 ..in case it does break, replacements are free..

TunedRX300

Rotating the right rear wheel worked, I applied some WD40 and used a L shaped 10mm Allen. With 53K miles, gear oil has become black with fine metal debris near the drain plug. Oil near the fill plug looks OK - light yellow. Thanks for the tip.

koolaidman

first question yes
second yes
3rd we use valvoline and yes u can use synthetic