Repl Toyota Red with Toyota Pink Coolant
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Lexus Champion
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Repl Toyota Red with Toyota Pink Coolant
RX Coolant Capacity 9.5 Qt with Expansion Tank - For a simple fluid change, 3 Gal Super Long Life Coolant - PN 00272-SLLC2.. Remove lower cooling pan under bumper (10-10mm bolts & 2 alligner pins (pop out centers using two small flat screwdrivers) ...By pressing the release tab away from you, lift and lay aside the DRL Fuse Box from it's holder just right of the battery. This allows access to the brass petcock valve just inside the exhaust manifold screwed into the side of the engine. Fit a two ft piece of clear 5/16 ID plastic tubing to the nipple and place into drain container. Place another two ft piece of tubing onto the radiator drain petcock with white valve. Jack stand and remove the right front wheel. The rear engine drain petcock valve is located above and to the outside of the transfer case on the AWD, screwed into the engine block. Also fit a third two ft piece of plastic hose to this drain nipple and into drain container.
Insure the engine is cool prior to draining! New coolant is fully compatable with the older red, so unless coolant removed is excessively dirty or not toyota red, a drain and fill without flushing should be all required.
The radiator should drain about 6 quarts with the block holding the other 3.5 Quarts. Remove the top radiator cap to allow system to evacuate. Open the radiator thumbscrew petcock and allow the red coolant to flow out. Using a 1/4 drive 10mm socket, open the front engine drain petcock valve about a turn allowing coolant drain. Using a 3/8 drive with a short extension 10mm socket , loosen the rear block petcock valve about a turn allowing coolant drain. Remove the expansion tank hose by sliding back the clamp and "gently twisting the hose on the cap nipple and wabble it off. Allow the hose to drain red coolant. Lift and wabble the tank from it's holder bolted to the fender. Drain the red coolant from the tank and clean the inside. Allow to dry and reinstall tank & cap without hose. Close all three drain valves when drain is completed...
The radiator is finger tight and the two engine block petcock valves are tightened to 9 FT LBS.
The Bottle instruction states if flushing is needed - Fill radiator / cooling system with the 50/50 premixed coolant using a small funnel (use no water). Cap radiator. Set heater to HOT. Start engine and run till heater activates. Stop engine and allow to cool; then drain Pink coolant from radiator and engine again. Do not add any water to system. Properly dispose of waste coolant.
Close the three drain valves and refill the radiator/cooling system with 50/50 PreDiluted Super Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (Pink) DO NOT ADD WATER! Cap radiator. Fill expansion tank to MIN line and reconnect overflow hose to tank cap nipple. Run engine with heater set to HOT till heater activates . Stop engine and allow to cool. When cooled, remove radiator cap and with funnel, top off radiator. Top up tank to 1/ 2 inch above MIN line for starters. Check level for MAX when engine is hot. Final check for any leaks at the drain valves and expansion tank.
Remove Plastic tubing from the drain petcock valve nipples. Wipe up any spills. Reinstall right front wheel and tighten lugs to 75 FT LBs. Reinstall the DRL Fuse box onto it's holder next to the battery by snapping it down into place. Clean & reinstall the bottom cooling plastic pan by reinstalling the two alligner pins by popping in their center retainers. Then the two outer screws with plastic retainer thread and eight with machine threads with a 10mm 1/4 drive. I tighten my bolts to 8 Inch pounds so not to damage the plastic pan screw holes.
The coolant is now a pretty pink !! Good for Five Years or 100,000 Miles
Rick
Insure the engine is cool prior to draining! New coolant is fully compatable with the older red, so unless coolant removed is excessively dirty or not toyota red, a drain and fill without flushing should be all required.
The radiator should drain about 6 quarts with the block holding the other 3.5 Quarts. Remove the top radiator cap to allow system to evacuate. Open the radiator thumbscrew petcock and allow the red coolant to flow out. Using a 1/4 drive 10mm socket, open the front engine drain petcock valve about a turn allowing coolant drain. Using a 3/8 drive with a short extension 10mm socket , loosen the rear block petcock valve about a turn allowing coolant drain. Remove the expansion tank hose by sliding back the clamp and "gently twisting the hose on the cap nipple and wabble it off. Allow the hose to drain red coolant. Lift and wabble the tank from it's holder bolted to the fender. Drain the red coolant from the tank and clean the inside. Allow to dry and reinstall tank & cap without hose. Close all three drain valves when drain is completed...
The radiator is finger tight and the two engine block petcock valves are tightened to 9 FT LBS.
The Bottle instruction states if flushing is needed - Fill radiator / cooling system with the 50/50 premixed coolant using a small funnel (use no water). Cap radiator. Set heater to HOT. Start engine and run till heater activates. Stop engine and allow to cool; then drain Pink coolant from radiator and engine again. Do not add any water to system. Properly dispose of waste coolant.
Close the three drain valves and refill the radiator/cooling system with 50/50 PreDiluted Super Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (Pink) DO NOT ADD WATER! Cap radiator. Fill expansion tank to MIN line and reconnect overflow hose to tank cap nipple. Run engine with heater set to HOT till heater activates . Stop engine and allow to cool. When cooled, remove radiator cap and with funnel, top off radiator. Top up tank to 1/ 2 inch above MIN line for starters. Check level for MAX when engine is hot. Final check for any leaks at the drain valves and expansion tank.
Remove Plastic tubing from the drain petcock valve nipples. Wipe up any spills. Reinstall right front wheel and tighten lugs to 75 FT LBs. Reinstall the DRL Fuse box onto it's holder next to the battery by snapping it down into place. Clean & reinstall the bottom cooling plastic pan by reinstalling the two alligner pins by popping in their center retainers. Then the two outer screws with plastic retainer thread and eight with machine threads with a 10mm 1/4 drive. I tighten my bolts to 8 Inch pounds so not to damage the plastic pan screw holes.
The coolant is now a pretty pink !! Good for Five Years or 100,000 Miles
Rick
Last edited by Tammy; 01-18-05 at 08:08 AM.
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Rick:
All I can say is wow again. Thanks for the info. People like you and sites like this are invaluble to us DIY'ers. I will be tackling the coolant change as soon as I finish the transfer and differrential fluids (I have my replacement compression ring gaskets on order from Irontoad) and it's all thanks to your detailed instructions.
I'm not a newbie to car maintainence but I am to the RX....I really appreciate all the help you have provided me with.
Lee
All I can say is wow again. Thanks for the info. People like you and sites like this are invaluble to us DIY'ers. I will be tackling the coolant change as soon as I finish the transfer and differrential fluids (I have my replacement compression ring gaskets on order from Irontoad) and it's all thanks to your detailed instructions.
I'm not a newbie to car maintainence but I am to the RX....I really appreciate all the help you have provided me with.
Lee
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