99jewel

Problem starting occurs often, but not constantly. Apparently not related to weather, and battery is OK. When it does occur, I turn key in ignition switch and will not start, however, still have power to everything else. I found that if I turn steering wheel back & forth while turning key to START, it will finally crank, but it usually takes 5 or so minutes of continuous twisting, turning, cursing, etc. before it does start. I do not think it is wiring inside steering column, and know it is not the battery. Only thing left are battery cabes, which appear to be fine, or solenoid. Any other ideas I have overlooked? It is a '99 RX300 by the way. Thanks!!

rxdriver

Is the starter running all of that time, or is it that hard to get the starter going?
How quickly does the starter get the engine running?

Barryst

I have had a problem that was similar.
-Does the starter "click" when you turn the key?
If it does, rapid turning of the key(back and forth) will eventually get you started.
It sounds like a starter problem, I replaced mine myself and now its fine.-

99jewel

Barryst: Sounds like identical problem- For the past 2 months, have been rapidly twisting key back & forth in switch & eventually the starter will engage. I am in the process of replacing a starter on my other vehicle (F.ix O.r R.epair D.aily Explorer) & hate the thought of having to replace another one on Lexus the same week. I will have it tested ASAP.

rxdriver: Today it started no problem. Drove about 5 miles, turned off to go into store, came out 10 minutes later, and would not start (starter is not running- it is that hard to get it going to answer your question). Twisted key rapidly for about 3 or 4 minutes as Barryst suggested, & solenoid is clicking with each turn of the key. Finally the starter engaged, and it cranked up immediately.

Thanks to both of you for the advice & I will keep you posted.

ClaudiG

I started having the exact problem and I called my mechanic and it will cost close to 500 to have a new starter installed. UGH - does that sound right - including time and labor?

I have a 99 GS400.

It seems like it started out of the blue. Sometimes I have to turn the key up to 10 times before the car will actually start. I'm so afraid that I'll get stuck and it won't start at all.

What causes a starter to stop working or do this?

TX

Barryst

My replacement starter cost me $150.00 at Auto Zone, I think it is a "rebuilt" one, but it looked new.
Anyway, my RX300 starter was easy to change since it is located on top of the engine, below the air cleaner box.-(You don't even have to craw under the car!)
It takes about an hour to change.
I really don't know if the GS400 has the same engine or not.-
I think my starter was just plain-old worn out, It had 110,000 on it when I changed it.
Barryst

salimshah

Looks like solonoid is the problem. If enough years have gone bye, changing the whole starter (motor + solonoid) will be the way go.

Salim

99jewel

Barryst: Thanks dude- I did a quick scan for starter location, but couldn't trace the cable from battery to starter. Nice to know it is easy to get to. I recently had problems starting my other vehicle, an Explorer, and it whipped me crawling all over my gravel driveway for 2 days to find out it was the pos. cable that corroded on inside.
Salim: Good advice- I agree it is probably a smart idea to go ahead & replace solenoid.

FYI: Now it will not start at all-have been trying all day. Will check starter and solenoid before replacing. Thanks to all for the help.

99jewel

Starter & solenoid OK-could it be the ignition switch? Which is exactly where I started

salimshah

Ignition (key) sends a low current +12v to the solonoid which is a relay + lever. The relay when activated (you hear a click) provides a high current path from tha battery to the starter motor. [thick wires carry the current. The relay action pulls the middle piece of the solonoid which by lever action pulls the gear out on the tip of the starter which spins the flywheel -> engine.

Lot of testing can be done with the starter on the engine. BUT it does require care and strong heart. For example if you bridge the solonoid ... this bypasses the relay and 12v go to the motor, you can see if the starter motor is ok and the wire from the battery is good. CAUTION: Huge current flows through the jumper (mechanics use a thick conducting screw-driver). You get a big spark which gets worse if the connection is weak. [if the screwdriver is not held down with force]. Do not gnd the wire from the battery.

The other check is to provide 12v to the primary side of the solonoid. [this bypasses the ignition switch]. It can be done by a wire from the battery or directly from the terminal on the starter ... thick wire from the battery comes to the starter.

*** Make sure the Car is in Park ... all safety interlocks are bypassed when you try to sart this way *** imobilizer will be active and with the ignition at off the spark plugs will not generate the spark.

Salim

99jewel

Salim: Thanks for the advice- I removed the starter/solenoid & took it to Autozone to have it tested. Dude checked it twice & I observed starter turning & solenoid engage (push gear out). Put starter back into vehicle, and had it towed to Toyota dealer locally (closest Lexus dealer is 30 miles away). Dealer called & said it was definitely my starter. I advised that I had it checked & it was OK. He said it was positively the starter & quoted $600 to replace. Told him I was on my way to pick up car. When I got to dealer, the car was running. Asked him how they could get a car running if starter or solenoid was bad. He gave me some bogus reply about bridging power to something which still makes no sense at all. Charged me $80 for diagnosis & $45 for towing. I stopped by Advance on way home & picked up remfctrd starter/solenoid for $175, and installed when I got home. Car would still not crank, so I took new starter out, went back to Advance and they graciously gave me refund AND old starter back. Installed old starter today, and have to wait until Monday to fill dealers ears up. I was going to run the tests that you recommended, but do not think I have enough room to access terminals. Do you have any info. on replacing ignition switch, i.e. location, access, ease of replacing, etc.. Any other advice or tips would be greatly appreciated, as I cannot afford to get ripped off again by a dealer. Thanks!!!!!!

rxdriver

Here's some generic tips on the subject from a Haynes manual for a 2000 Toyota Tacoma.

Things to check, in order:

1. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. (I've seen a corroded terminal keep the body electronics running, but fail to give the starter enough current to run.)
2. Battery dead.
3. Automatic transmission must be in Park or Neutral. (Are there any indications that the car doesn't know what gear it's in? There's a sensor in the shifter that feeds the computer, and it should display the correct gear on the instrument cluster.)
4. Broken or loose wires in the starter circuit.
5. Mechanical problem with the starter itself. (Sounds like you've eliminated that one.)
6. Ignition switch faulty.

You'd need a manual to help test the ignition switch. On the Tacoma, there's a wiring harness that plugs in to the back of the ignition switch. The manual tells you which pins should be shorted (i.e. have continuity) when the key is in various positions. Of course, getting the switch out is no picnic. On the Tacoma, it's necessary to disable the airbags and take apart the steering column, even though the ignition is in the dash next to the steering column. The Lexus might be similar.

salimshah

There are two bridging (my term -- bypass) that can be done. One on the solonoid secondary .. +12v directly to motor or the other is to bridge (bypass) the ignition and feed +12v directly to the primary of the solonoid.

Try the ignition bypass yourself and that will either confirm or eliminate the ignition switch path. I am not sure if the wire to the solonoid comes from a controller (some sort of ecu) or a simple series swithch [ignition -> tramission (park mode sensor)] and then to solonoid.

You can always go to another dealer (may be further away) or go to a toyota dealership (highlander). For starter motor, you can practically go to any mechanic (my preferencial order would be Lexus, Toyota, Specialists of Japanese cars and so on.

Last bit if advise ... do not rule out poor battery and week cable connections.

Salim

mikey00

I know you already said battery is ok, but this sure sounds like a battery to me. When the battery in the Rx fails it seems to defy logic, in that the symptoms are not the usual slow or hard cranking and/or dimming lights. If you have another car try swapping the batteries. It's free and easy troubleshooting. If you have the original battery in a 99, just go buy a new one. You will have to soon anyway. It should be only about $40 at Costco for a Kirkland. They are made by Johnston Controls (the best) also makers of the Optima.

knolex2001

I had the same problem with my 95 ES. What you DON'T want to do is continue to crank the car 10-15 times in an attempt to start it! What you need is a mechanic to remove it and take it appart (most Lexus dealers won't do this, you may need to go to an outside mechanic who knows Lexus and Toyota parts). Filth and wear can build up over 90K+ miles and will make it increasingly difficult for the starter to come on. The reason you can start the car after 10-15 tries is because the connection is heating up enough to get through the build up in the starter. Replace the connection, get the build up cleaned out, and the car will be good for a while. DON'T pay more that $100 bucks to do this. If you can't find someone to do this for $100 bucks, you may as well just get a new starter for a little more. I would only get Lexus parts through.