03RX300

While the oil was draining, I took the shroud off from under the radiator area, no big deal, 8 or so #10 mm bolts all machine thread with two self tapping screws.

Then I proceeded to take the oil filter off, what a huge PITA, I have no idea what the Engineers were thinking, the oil runs onto 2-3 suspension parts then drips down onto the exhaust pipe which comes out of the Cat-converter. Do not attempt this without the Oil Filter wrench, the type that goes on over the end of the filter, otherwise, you are in for a long day.

I finally got the oil cleaned up off the suspension parts after climbing all around the top and bottom of the engine. I have no idea why they had to make such a simple and repetitively necessary task so difficult.

So hide any objects that could be easily thrown, and go slow and you can do this in an hour, maybe a little less.

Put it back together and filled with Valvoline Full Synthetic oil and a new filter and all is well for @ 5k miles.

BTW, I have removed and built and rebuilt no less than 4 Corvette engines, done numerous engine rebuild repairs, worked on GM, Ford and BMW's and this one is the silliest I have seen so far.

Gonna do my belts in a few weeks, we'll see how this goes.

TunedRX300

Nice to see people DIY. Bad design and tight spacing give more incentive for synthetic oil, I do 10k interval between changes now. Taking off oil filter is relative easy with oil filter wrench and 3" extension to connect to my 3/8 rachet.

Lexmex

My uncle and I do our own oil changes on my RX300 (for the last 4 years down here). Once I picked up the K&N oil filter, HP-1002, for my RX300 I never went back to Toyota. It has a big nut on the top that makes it easier to change filters. Still using Mobil 1 0W-40.

BTW, I have been able to on some occasions when the engine is cold (so I don't burn my hand on the exhaust manifold), literally reach under the manifold with a wrench and take off the filter without having to go underneath. I spray some water in there to get the dripped oil out.

BTW, my URD pulley will be here within 7 days so I will also be working on the belts.

You ain't kidding about the oil filter placement. My buddy's RX-7 is a snap to take out his oil filter...even changing the spark plugs is a joke on that rotary engine of his.

Tammy

Get to the belts by removing the right front wheel and the shield inside, towards the front. Have a quarter inch ratchet and a quarter inch 12mm socket handy for the alternator tightener. Take a second and eyeball how tight the original belts are prior to loosening. Tighten the new one slightly tighter, since it is new and unstretched. Check it after 50 miles running, by feel. The power steering is obvious with the wheel removed.

03RX300

Thanks for the pointers Tammy!

I guess I will perfect/devise my own procedure on the next oil change go around, I drive @ 30k per year so I better get good at this!

BTW, I did spray some engine degreaser on the spots where the oil collected a little bit, then wiped or sopped it all off.

Fern

Great to here there is another DIYer in the crowd.

Here's what I do, to change oil fromt the top:

-let car idle for about 10 minutes to get oil circulating and be certain no sludge in bottom of oil pan.

-turn off engine and drain from drain plug in pan (passengers side, not driver's side. Driver's side is the transmission drain plug).

-open oil fill cap in top of crankcase to allow air to enter and oil to drain quicker

-allow 10-15 minutes for engine to drain and most importantly engine to cool down.
(while this is happening - on your next oil change "03RX300", you might want to turn the horn around. See ederny's site on what I am refereing too. As I remove my "genuine toyota filter" from the top, I need the extra clearance by turning the position of the horn facing forward, rather than reverse, ie into grill rather than the way the factory did, which is into engine compartment. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/oil.htm

-I then can remove the filter from the top, by carefully sliding a filter wrench on the front of the filter and loosening it and slowly unscrewing it until it is loose from the threads,

-imediately turn it upward so that any remaining oil does not continue to spill and lift it past the exhaust manifold and area where the horn faced into.

- tighten the existing drain plug with a new washer (normally supplied with new filter) and voala-

-install new genuine toyota filter from the top- easy now since no oil dripping from filter to contend with and engine should be luke warm at this point. - I just install hand tight as tight as my greasy hands will allow me at this point.

- fill via crankcase fill opening with 4.7 litres of quality oil (I use Castrol Syntec) and close crankcase fill cap.

-start up car for a few minutes, turn it off and check for leaks.

-put next change reminder on door or windshield for next change. ( I do mine every 6000 km or 3700 miles)

I know, using synthetic and still changing every 6000 km?? Read the manual, it says " the use of synthetic oil does not extend the oil change intervals" Regardless, I use synthetic to avoid the dreaded gelling/sludge issue .

Note: every 2nd oil change I check the pvc valve and clean it while out - takes 2 minutes and great preventative maintenance.

Cheers,
Fern

03RX300

Great info, what about the fuel filter? Where the heck is that puppy?

Tammy

Fuel filter lasts life of the pump. It's in the tank... Not really a maintenance item anymore.

03RX300

Thanks again Tammy, looks like i need a Lexus manual, I have seen them on EBAY for @ $180.00,,,, looks like I will pick one up.

TunedRX300

Kudos again to all DIYers. Not to spark a debate on change interval, the worse advice one follows is Jiffy Lube's "3000 miles, lube or lose it" commercial. As for Toyota's recommendation- Toyota also does not recommend change from syn oil back to dino, but put blend oil for RX400h (probably other models as well) when you change at dealers, well isn't blend a mix of dino and syn?
I have done 10K interval over 2 years since I learned about 12K is the limit by Neptune Oil Study for Mobil 1 syn oil. They have done oil test and collected data for every couple of thousands to find out when oil is used up. People usually have their own belief but justify yours with solid reasons and drive away happy

03RX300

I drive a ton of Interstate miles (sales) so I usually change the oil at 6K miles, I will probably will stay at that, this way I will have 6 oil changes in a year.

Going to do my front brakes soon too, the pads look a little thin w/22k miles on them, but I will order the parts ahead of time (www.irontoad.com) and then pull the wheel and check them first. I don't like for the pads to get too thin or else the rotor could warp, I don't like to turn the rotors either, I just replace them every other pad set so I get get pulsation in the pedal.

As far as a DIY, that is me to the max, unless it is a major repair, I will be the one doing the work. I always keep a 3-ring binder with all of my receipts and repair history in it.

Hopefully, this RX will only need the typical, fluid changes, belt changes, brake and rubber changes!

Fern

fuel filter is in the fuel tank... lifetime filter...

Fern

Never change from synthetic to dino since synthetics have properties which clean as they lubricate. By going to dino oil you are introducing the possibility of particles which over time will contaminate what the synthetic has been working so hard to clean.

Anyone who has been using conventional dino and then went to synthetic can verify the first few oil changes are black, since the synthetic is washing away the sludge-like particles the dino left behind... Why anyone would go back to dino is beyond me.

(whats the saying... "once you go synthetic, you don't go back !LOL!")

Synthetic blend is not just mixing a bottle of synthetic with dino, its much more complicated than that.

TunedRX300

Using this logic, putting any dino into any engine, including a brand new engine that does not have any sludge, will have the same effect. Why single out the case when syn oil is previously used?

My AWD RX's owner manual says check ATF only at 60K when severe driving condition applies (e.g. towing), if you follow Toyota's recommendation by heart you might as well kiss your tranny bye bye shortly after powertrain expires.

Personally I put a huge credibility discount on blanket statements, especially those w/o any sound scienific reasoning. IMHO, some of these official statements and recommendations are not engine or model specific. They are geared for marketing and profit generation because they do not make real world sense to owners.

mikey00

RX pads usually go 70 to 80k easy. My RX rarely goes on the highway and I got over 70K on them before I changed them. With all your highway driving, they should last a lot longer.