Lexmex

I got CELs with the K&N but only on occasion with my current, insane setup do I get the P0171 error.

Bobk528

I have a 2000 RX300 and installed a K&N filter at 60,000 miles. Shortly after installing it, I had to replace the MAF. I should had read this forum and simply clean the MAF but I'm learning by regularly reading this forum site. Anyway, after 67,000 miles on the odometer, its been running fine. I purchased K&N filters for three cars. I got sucked in thinking that this filter will magically boost horsepower. The next time I change my air and oil filter, transmission fluid, and other routine items, I'm planning to stick with Toyota OEM.

TunedRX300

K&N is no supercharger or turbo. Anyone who believe a drop in filter will turn RX into a rocket, well...that is a person I want to avoid on the road. Most people expect increase airflow a little so the engine can mix more fuel with the increased oxygen for a little increase of HP. Other uses replacement filter because it is more economic in the long run.
K&N is around for a long time, those who wants to pack more air into the engine without forced induction, this is a cost effective way to do it. Those who could care less about performance, go with OEM filter.

gserep1

I have used K&N filters since 1988, and was convinced that they were worth the money. I had it on EVERY car I've owned since then. However,recently I have finally realized that it is not all it is cracked up to be. I have had to change 2 MAFS in the last year because of the oil from the K&N's.

Another reason I changed back to the paper filter is the fact that my oil stays cleaner. I do oil analysis on my engine oil. and the results of my lest test shows that my oil was contaminated with SILICA....which is SAND. HOW did I get silica in my oil...from the oil filter that had microscopic holes in the cotton of the K&N filter. We should have a DRY air filter in the airbox in my opinion. I had so much gunk in the throttle body. Tha also stays cleaner as well, so I assume the car breathes better, and the oil is no longer inside the Idle Speed Control in the air passage

I changed back to the factory filter and noticed NO decrease in performance, and no maf problems. I changed my engine oil to get rid of the silica. My oil now stays much cleaner, and the car actually runs BETTER without the sand contamination. Now I have to check the fuel mileage.

SilverSprt

Installed a K&N filter in my car around 55k. I am almost at 70k with no problems. Is my car amped with a lot more horsepower? Nope. Do I notice a difference? Feels like it. Why did I decide to get it? I bought mine from Walmart for a bargain and it will easily pay itself over time. Where OEM filters run about $15.

Cheers

TunedRX300

Could you can scan the oil analysis result and post it on the forum?
See what this person posted and it can be easily verified with your oil analysis report.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/airintake.htm

Lexmex

When I first installed one, I did feel a slight difference. However, the MAF problem on mine eventually meant it had to go. It was simply much better in the power department to run no filter than run K&N in terms of having a clean MAF. Eventually, I did just that.

TunedRX300, not sure if that person will ever reply back, but if I can find a group to do an analysis, kind of like the Blackstone Lab in the U.S., I will gladly post my results of oil since I don't run with a filter.

Even then, one has to remember people run their RXs in very different climates.

While, I may not have a a lot of silicated in the air, I remember reading about a 1980s study where a scientist isolated all the necessary particles needed for making gunpowder solely out of one day's worth of Mexico City air.

Fern

And to think I actually envy you for living in Mehico

speedee952

weapon r makes a cold air intake for the rx that draws air from the lower bumper. Might wanna check that out

Lexmex

I think you are referring to their ram air kits. This is doable with the long hose reaching down, but one would also have to remove the current setup and and secure the end of the ram air opening down below as I have done with my custom setup.

TunedRX300

Lexmex, I agree with you that usage depends on where you are. The goal of a filter is to filter out particles that cause long term engine damage w/o sacrificing flow. I have seen one internet study which a secondary filter behind different brands of paper, cotton gauze, and foam filters, the result is that all filters let in particles that is caught by the 2nd filter.
I use K&N during winter months and switch to OEM during summer. But it is amazing that people (not including you Lexmex )assume or imply OEM paper filters out all hurtful particles while K&N does not. If that the case, then why do many owners who use OEM paper still report MAF clogging problem? MAF CEL code is not strictly for those who use K&N.
I ordered a test kit from Blackstone Laboratory and will do an oil analysis test for my next oil change.

Lexmex

Let me tell you, the OEM Toyota filter is one of the most restrictive things I have ever seen in terms of restricting air and that probably goes for other vehicles with their own OEM filters. That may be nice for sea level, but not for high altitude where I live.

Even then, one problem I encountered when I used to have my air box was the fact that it never sealed properly and I always had to duct tape when I would take it to the track for the first time way back in the 2004, as it would be letting in the hot engine air (forget about filtration).