Hi

Not sure if this is a problem, but today I have noticed that if I change from park to drive or from N to drive/reverse the car "jerks". It is quite noticeable. I have the car for a few days, so I'm not sure if this is something new or I have just noticed it. Is this normal? It doesn't do it when it shifts while driving. It has 72k on the clock. Also, I have a note from the last service that the transmission fluid need flushing.

thanks for any help

Robert

 

What does the tach show as the idling RPM when you shift from Park or Neutral? Above 1500?

With your mileage, you may want to consider several "drain and fills" to replace the fluid rather than having it flushed... Power flushing with your mileage may damage the transmission valving, creating problems. I would recommend you drain and fill, drive 500 miles and repeat three times.

Are you AWD or FWD? AWD requires 4.3 quarts and the Fwd requires 3.8 quarts. Original fluid is Toyota Type IV ... It's pretty simple to change. A Toyota dealer is the source of the fluid. There are instructions in the forum....

 

I agree with Tammy.

I have had the flush done once at a Lexus dealer, but given the cheap cost of Type IV on my budget (will try Amsoil ATF in the US), drain and fill is your best bet and is a DIY.

What color is your transmission fluid right now? Red, pink, silver, brown, black (hope not on the last two).

Don't forget to also let them drain the front differential at the same time. Though we can also show you where the magic drain nuts are. It also uses Type-IV fluid through the same entrance as your ATF.

I do get jerk on mine, but it is as a result of that accelerator cord tighetning that Pheonix suggested to me, but beforehand the only place I got that was when parking on slight inclines and trying to go into R or D.

 

When I started this morning it was 1500 on park. When I shifted from Park it went down to 1000. After a bit of driving park was at 1000 and shifting from it was 800.
Also, I have noticed the jerk was gone after I drove it for about 5 minutes. Shifting was smooth and there was no delay. However, the color doesn't seem right. Please check below.
It's 3.0 AWD. Actually it is Toyota Harrier, 1998. I'm in New Zealand. I will try to look for the instructions in the forum. Thanks for the help. I have never done this before, but I know how to work with tools.
It is rather dark. Something like dark pink, close to brown, but still transparent, I can easly ready COLD, HOT signs on the stick. Smells like ....hmm, not sure how it should smell, but it's not burnt.
How much more fluid I will need if I will decided to do it myself? Can you tell me where are the drain nuts for both transmission and the front differential?

Thank you for all your help. This forum is great.

PS. Please excuse me my english is not my native language.

 

Your transmission fluid should be a bright red, almost like cherry cough syrup (at least in all of the cars I have dealt with). if yours has even a hint of brown in it, you need to consider swapping out your transmission fluid soon. I don't recall the idle rpm on our '05 330 but it sure isn't 1500 or even 1000. I think our idle rpm is around 6-700. If yours is too high then it will definetly give you a pretty good jerk. You might check with your local dealer and see what your idle rpm specification is.

This might be something simple like an idle control solenoid or other gadget.

Gary

 

Just for everyone who might need this info in the future. I have just found this site:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/

Great stuff, thanks!

 

That's a case of twelve plus one quart for three drain and fills... Total of thirteen quarts.
All Wheel Drive uses 4.3 quarts refill with both the pan and transaxle plugs pulled... I use a small metal kitchen funnel that fits the transmission dip stick tube. You'll need to take your time and pour it slowly, preventing backup in the tube... Be carefull not to overfill. Check both cold and hot readings.
I like to use a 10mm allen hex socket, 3/8" drive against the L Allen wrench. Then use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs... You should be able to reuse the aluminum plug seal washers.

 

Some diplomats had two Harriers here in Mexico (they hauled them all that way on a boat) a few years back. So I have seen them firsthand.

Your final RPM at 800 is about right. Mine sometimes starts out higher (before and after my
current modifications) and then goes down. From what I have read and those I have talked to overseas, there is no real difference from the 98 Harrier and the 99 RX300 on the 3.0 L engine.

These should be the two magic hex nuts if I am not mistaken

The transfer case going back to the rear axle is where the GL5 type fluid goes in, which is different from Type IV.

As I recall when both are pulled, this takes a little more than 4.3 L, maybe Tammy you can shed some light on this as my uncle and I added up to the hot mark and I could not make heads or tails of how much we had added exactly, but it was close to 4.5 bottles.

 

Definitely drain and fill your tranny fluid at least twice. It should be cherry red as many have posted.

Your English is fine. (Are you Samoan?)

 

I went to the nearest Toyota dealer. They told me they have a new method of flushing the fluid. They fill it before it will fully drain. I didn't have time to ask for details. They said it will cost me just over US$100 including the fluid. I told them to go ahead and do it. I had my car ready in a couple of hours. Also, they changed the power steering fluid as it was getting dark as well.

I will keep my eye on the transmission fluid. It looks good now

Thanks for all help.

PS. I'm Polish...

 

Glad to hear you had the fluids changed.. Not meaning to advocate here, the other two to keep an eye on are the brake fluid; (Clear with slight yellowish tint when new) and the Coolant/ antifreeze..(Redish in color when new)...

For your information regarding the coolant.. The Toyota Red "Long Life Coolant" is mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Since 2005, Toyota has replaced the Red with a premixed blend, refered to as Toyota "Pink Super Long Life Coolant".. used with no water added. I switched to the pink in mine with good results. It has a five year rating and will blend with the standard red fine...

The green coolants are primarily designed for an engine with case iron block, while the red/pink for an aluminum block.

Search this forum for some additional information regarding changing both...