Oil Change/Coolant drain
#16
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Originally Posted by Lexmex
All I do with the coolant system is basically dump the coolant out one of the drain plugs and then replace.
I did a thread not too long ago on replacing the differential and transfer case fluids, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214000
The rear differential and transfer case can use 75W90 fluid. Some have used Mobil 1 75W90 gear oil (probably easiest to get), while I used Royal Purple 75W90 (since I couldn't get the Mobil 1 stuff in Mexico) or even Redline 75W90 gear fluid is also good, too.
When you are talking about ATF and the differential, you are referring to the front differential, which has a separate drain plug, but it is filled the same way you would the ATF fluid for the tranny, see https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214013
What TunedRX300 is going to do is actually take the pan off the of the transmission along with the filter, which we were talking about in one of the threads today. My thread only goes into how to do the front differential/transmission without taking off the pan.
I did a thread not too long ago on replacing the differential and transfer case fluids, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214000
The rear differential and transfer case can use 75W90 fluid. Some have used Mobil 1 75W90 gear oil (probably easiest to get), while I used Royal Purple 75W90 (since I couldn't get the Mobil 1 stuff in Mexico) or even Redline 75W90 gear fluid is also good, too.
When you are talking about ATF and the differential, you are referring to the front differential, which has a separate drain plug, but it is filled the same way you would the ATF fluid for the tranny, see https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214013
What TunedRX300 is going to do is actually take the pan off the of the transmission along with the filter, which we were talking about in one of the threads today. My thread only goes into how to do the front differential/transmission without taking off the pan.
So the rear uses 75W90? Does Toyota supply the oil/synthetic? My friend said Mobil doesn't make 75W90....weird......it's even harder for me to find royal purple...
Since i'm at 32000km. Should I bother with the rear diff if this car is front wheel biased?
I'm more concered with my tranny...
If i loosen the drain plug for front diff, how many bottles of ATF should i get from Toyota?
#17
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Originally Posted by wing0
Thanks for the great information!
So the rear uses 75W90? Does Toyota supply the oil/synthetic? My friend said Mobil doesn't make 75W90....weird......it's even harder for me to find royal purple...
Since i'm at 32000km. Should I bother with the rear diff if this car is front wheel biased?
I'm more concered with my tranny...
If i loosen the drain plug for front diff, how many bottles of ATF should i get from Toyota?
So the rear uses 75W90? Does Toyota supply the oil/synthetic? My friend said Mobil doesn't make 75W90....weird......it's even harder for me to find royal purple...
Since i'm at 32000km. Should I bother with the rear diff if this car is front wheel biased?
I'm more concered with my tranny...
If i loosen the drain plug for front diff, how many bottles of ATF should i get from Toyota?
This is the Mobil 1 75W90 gear oil, http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo..._75W-90LS.aspx
I couldn't find this stuff anywhere in Mexico, but the very likely have in Canada.
Toyota uses I believe Castrol in their dealerships but it is not a synthetic from my memory.
I went to 107K miles and you saw the pictures. I have heard of some going over 200K miles, but for where you are now, you can probably wait a lot longer.
The front differential kicked out about .5 liters and for my AWD that meant 5 bottles total.
#18
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How come it says to change the rear diff at 24000km then...my friend was asking the same question.
Tomorrow, I'll be grabbing the following:
Motor Oil (Castrol or Valvoline, more biased on Valvoline now....)
oil filter from Toyota 08922-02011(same as highlander)
5L of long life coolant from toyota
5 bottles of ATF Type IV for tranny and front diff.
oil filter wrench? I think I'll drive my car on the ramp I have since I gotta do ATF anyways. Do I still need a wrench if i'm opening the engine cover on the bottom?
Any problem with the above?
Tomorrow, I'll be grabbing the following:
Motor Oil (Castrol or Valvoline, more biased on Valvoline now....)
oil filter from Toyota 08922-02011(same as highlander)
5L of long life coolant from toyota
5 bottles of ATF Type IV for tranny and front diff.
oil filter wrench? I think I'll drive my car on the ramp I have since I gotta do ATF anyways. Do I still need a wrench if i'm opening the engine cover on the bottom?
Any problem with the above?
#19
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Originally Posted by wing0
How come it says to change the rear diff at 24000km then...my friend was asking the same question.
Tomorrow, I'll be grabbing the following:
Motor Oil (Castrol or Valvoline, more biased on Valvoline now....)
oil filter from Toyota 08922-02011(same as highlander)
5L of long life coolant from toyota
5 bottles of ATF Type IV for tranny and front diff.
oil filter wrench? I think I'll drive my car on the ramp I have since I gotta do ATF anyways. Do I still need a wrench if i'm opening the engine cover on the bottom?
Any problem with the above?
Tomorrow, I'll be grabbing the following:
Motor Oil (Castrol or Valvoline, more biased on Valvoline now....)
oil filter from Toyota 08922-02011(same as highlander)
5L of long life coolant from toyota
5 bottles of ATF Type IV for tranny and front diff.
oil filter wrench? I think I'll drive my car on the ramp I have since I gotta do ATF anyways. Do I still need a wrench if i'm opening the engine cover on the bottom?
Any problem with the above?
Everything looks ok. With regard to the oil fitler wrench, I also do it from below (though I have done it on top on a few occasions (a little messier if you're not careful), but you will still need that wrench as is it hard to reach in their and get a good grab otherwise. I use a K&N HP-1002 oil fitler since it has a nut on top that makes it easier to get off and on.
#20
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To keep inline with Lexus warranty. Is it still better to stick with their filter?
This sludging issue is making me worried about doing it myself and adversely affect repair later on.
What pattern is the bolt for the engine cover?
I know the bolt for the ATF drain is hex 10mm, but what pattern is the front diff drain bolt?
If i can use my friend's torque wrench, there is no risk at stripping the thread right on the oil pan right?
This sludging issue is making me worried about doing it myself and adversely affect repair later on.
What pattern is the bolt for the engine cover?
I know the bolt for the ATF drain is hex 10mm, but what pattern is the front diff drain bolt?
If i can use my friend's torque wrench, there is no risk at stripping the thread right on the oil pan right?
#21
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You don't have sludge concerns if you change your oil. That's it !
90915--YZZD1 is your latest part number for a toyota filter. The filter is 74mm across, the cap wrench is a 74mm size. The plug seal or gasket is a 12mm id size. The seal is needed to space out the plug so it's threads don't bottom out in the pan, damaging the pan nut inside the pan..
I use only K&N, Mobile One or in a pinch, the standard toyota filter. They all are warranty supported.
The engine cover has three 5mm allen sleeve nuts and rotate counter clockwise the L emblem at the center of the cover. I tighen them snug, but not tight since it's plastic and will crack if over tightened.. The "L" , I tighten just to the point where there is no play in the cover. You'll feel it detent into the cover as you snug it up.
Below, to remove the oil filter, you need to remove the "cooling cover", behind the front bumper.
There are eight 10mm machine bolts, two 10mm sheet metal screws that locate the outer corners and two push center lock locater pins. Two small screwdrivers are needed to pop out the center of these locator pins. They lift out of the cover, one on each side..
When replacing, turn a half turn after finger tight in to the plastic cover. Too tight will crack the holes of the cover.
The ATF plugs are both 10mm allen hex; on the pan and on the transaxle. The pan plug has a magnet. They both have aluminum seal washers the may be reused.
Recommend you borrow a 3/8 drive ratchet torque wrench with a 25-75 Ft Lb (appx) torque range. The oil plug at 30 Ft Lbs, along with the other transmission and transaxle plugs.
90915--YZZD1 is your latest part number for a toyota filter. The filter is 74mm across, the cap wrench is a 74mm size. The plug seal or gasket is a 12mm id size. The seal is needed to space out the plug so it's threads don't bottom out in the pan, damaging the pan nut inside the pan..
I use only K&N, Mobile One or in a pinch, the standard toyota filter. They all are warranty supported.
The engine cover has three 5mm allen sleeve nuts and rotate counter clockwise the L emblem at the center of the cover. I tighen them snug, but not tight since it's plastic and will crack if over tightened.. The "L" , I tighten just to the point where there is no play in the cover. You'll feel it detent into the cover as you snug it up.
Below, to remove the oil filter, you need to remove the "cooling cover", behind the front bumper.
There are eight 10mm machine bolts, two 10mm sheet metal screws that locate the outer corners and two push center lock locater pins. Two small screwdrivers are needed to pop out the center of these locator pins. They lift out of the cover, one on each side..
When replacing, turn a half turn after finger tight in to the plastic cover. Too tight will crack the holes of the cover.
The ATF plugs are both 10mm allen hex; on the pan and on the transaxle. The pan plug has a magnet. They both have aluminum seal washers the may be reused.
Recommend you borrow a 3/8 drive ratchet torque wrench with a 25-75 Ft Lb (appx) torque range. The oil plug at 30 Ft Lbs, along with the other transmission and transaxle plugs.
#23
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Originally Posted by wing0
Where does Toyota get their engine oil?
Valvoline?
Valvoline?
#24
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Alright. I got all the stuff.
Oil + Filter(90915--YZZD1 <--- I thought this is made in Japan?)
5L of ATF
2 jugs of coolant, I got the long life ones since it's not premixed while the super long life is premixed and they're the same price for the same jug so I'm paying for water essentially in super long life.
Oil + Filter(90915--YZZD1 <--- I thought this is made in Japan?)
5L of ATF
2 jugs of coolant, I got the long life ones since it's not premixed while the super long life is premixed and they're the same price for the same jug so I'm paying for water essentially in super long life.
#25
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Originally Posted by wing0
Alright. I got all the stuff.
Oil + Filter(90915--YZZD1 <--- I thought this is made in Japan?)
5L of ATF
2 jugs of coolant, I got the long life ones since it's not premixed while the super long life is premixed and they're the same price for the same jug so I'm paying for water essentially in super long life.
Oil + Filter(90915--YZZD1 <--- I thought this is made in Japan?)
5L of ATF
2 jugs of coolant, I got the long life ones since it's not premixed while the super long life is premixed and they're the same price for the same jug so I'm paying for water essentially in super long life.
Let me know if you run into any trouble.
I think at one time the Lexus dealer that I first went to after I got my RX was using Castrol.
#26
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Here's one of the many threads about Toyota/Lexus oil filter part numbers and where they're made.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190313
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190313
#27
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Here is a link to K&N for the cross reference to some other filters, http://www.knfilters.com/search/kn_c...spx?kn=HP-1002
And here is the cross reference for other vehicle applications,
http://www.knfilters.com/search/appl...x?Prod=HP-1002
There quite a few non-Lexus and non-Toyota vehicles that use that size filter.
Once, when I was looking for a substitute filter, I actually used a Mobil (not Mobil 1) filter briefly until we go the K&N dealer down here when it was open. Was actually one for a 1982 Chrysler generic.
And here is the cross reference for other vehicle applications,
http://www.knfilters.com/search/appl...x?Prod=HP-1002
There quite a few non-Lexus and non-Toyota vehicles that use that size filter.
Once, when I was looking for a substitute filter, I actually used a Mobil (not Mobil 1) filter briefly until we go the K&N dealer down here when it was open. Was actually one for a 1982 Chrysler generic.
#28
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I have the same filter as in the picture. Made in Thailand.
I got torque wrench, jack, stand, ramp, 2 oil filter wrench(metalband adjustable ones from my friend) and other tools for removing the bolts(although I need to check if I have the right sizes first....
I'll be sure to post back here if I have any problem and would greatly appreciate any help. This is my first time working on the RX so I'll be extra careful even if it takes me longer time *cough* like that oil filter.
I also plan to rotate the tires too while i have the torque wrench.
For ATF/front diff. Should I unbolt the tranny first wait till it drains then diff or diff first then tranny?
I was reading the guide in How2 and there seems to be two drain plug for coolant? One on the bottom and one near the top engine? I don't really understand. Wouldn't one be enough?
I got torque wrench, jack, stand, ramp, 2 oil filter wrench(metalband adjustable ones from my friend) and other tools for removing the bolts(although I need to check if I have the right sizes first....
I'll be sure to post back here if I have any problem and would greatly appreciate any help. This is my first time working on the RX so I'll be extra careful even if it takes me longer time *cough* like that oil filter.
I also plan to rotate the tires too while i have the torque wrench.
For ATF/front diff. Should I unbolt the tranny first wait till it drains then diff or diff first then tranny?
I was reading the guide in How2 and there seems to be two drain plug for coolant? One on the bottom and one near the top engine? I don't really understand. Wouldn't one be enough?
#29
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Originally Posted by wing0
After reading RX300 How2. I think it's really time that I start doing some of these maintenances myself. So currently, the coolant in my car is the red long life coolant? How "long" life are these? same as Dexcool with their 5 yr claim(i hate GM)?
When I was reading the guide, it says I'd need around 9L to put back in, is that already taking into account of the 50:50 ratio with water?
The car right now have around 32000km and I really want to do ATF change also seeing all the transmission problem(again read the guide, seems not too hard).
Should I stick with Toyota engine oil if i change it myself? or go for other brands? I'll leave synthetic alone for now as I'm not sure how it affects the seals which I heard could start leaking?
When I was reading the guide, it says I'd need around 9L to put back in, is that already taking into account of the 50:50 ratio with water?
The car right now have around 32000km and I really want to do ATF change also seeing all the transmission problem(again read the guide, seems not too hard).
Should I stick with Toyota engine oil if i change it myself? or go for other brands? I'll leave synthetic alone for now as I'm not sure how it affects the seals which I heard could start leaking?
The 9L (litre) or about 2 gallons is total capacity. After you flush the cooling system with hot water, about one gallon of water will sit in the cooling system. Add a bottle (gallon) of Toyota coolant in. That'll give you about 50/50 mix.
Note that some air will trap inside the cooling system and will "burp" after you drive it. Check coolant level the next few days and top off as needed. I recommend filling up to half way between Full and Empty when the car is cold. When the car gets hot, the coolant level rises.
Do ATF change if the fluid is discolored. Otherwise there's no need. If you want to do it, feel free. Just be sure to use the correct tranny fluid.
Any 5W30 oil will do just fine, dino or synthetic. Though synthetic has a bad habit of seeping through piston rings and gaskets as the car ages.
#30
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When you start getting issues with the leaking at higher mileage, that is the time to reevaluate whether to stay at 5W30 or going to a 5W40 or for some a 5W50. I don't have 5W40, so the 0W40 works just fine. Yes, leaks can occur with synthetics, but one needs to remember you need to be vigilant in watching when you change your oil whether with dino or with synthetic.