Oil Change/Coolant drain
05-25-06, 04:32 AM
#31
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by HarrierAWD
The red Toyota Long Life coolant is only good for 2 years / 30K miles. Not very long life. However, it is a very good quality fluid. My RX300 is over 4 years old, yet the reservior is clean like new. My old GM's gunked up after just a few months with the green stuff. BTW, GM has since retracted the 5-year claim of the orange Dexcool. Some GM owners are experiencing problems long before the 5 years are up.
The 9L (litre) or about 2 gallons is total capacity. After you flush the cooling system with hot water, about one gallon of water will sit in the cooling system. Add a bottle (gallon) of Toyota coolant in. That'll give you about 50/50 mix.
Note that some air will trap inside the cooling system and will "burp" after you drive it. Check coolant level the next few days and top off as needed. I recommend filling up to half way between Full and Empty when the car is cold. When the car gets hot, the coolant level rises.
Do ATF change if the fluid is discolored. Otherwise there's no need. If you want to do it, feel free. Just be sure to use the correct tranny fluid.
Any 5W30 oil will do just fine, dino or synthetic. Though synthetic has a bad habit of seeping through piston rings and gaskets as the car ages.
The 9L (litre) or about 2 gallons is total capacity. After you flush the cooling system with hot water, about one gallon of water will sit in the cooling system. Add a bottle (gallon) of Toyota coolant in. That'll give you about 50/50 mix.
Note that some air will trap inside the cooling system and will "burp" after you drive it. Check coolant level the next few days and top off as needed. I recommend filling up to half way between Full and Empty when the car is cold. When the car gets hot, the coolant level rises.
Do ATF change if the fluid is discolored. Otherwise there's no need. If you want to do it, feel free. Just be sure to use the correct tranny fluid.
Any 5W30 oil will do just fine, dino or synthetic. Though synthetic has a bad habit of seeping through piston rings and gaskets as the car ages.
As for air trapped. So after I refill the radiator(from the cap) and the overflow tank. Do I let the engine run without the pressure cap put back on to let air out? or just drive and the air will eventually get out through circulation?
Out of the 3 things, I have the least experience in changing coolant, sorry.
05-25-06, 06:17 AM
#32
Lexus Champion
Fill the radiator, almost to the neck. Leave the cap off . "Set the heater to MAX";
start the engine.
The coolant may rise slightly, the fall quickly as the thermostat starts to open, usually a couple of minutes. Be prepared to add more coolant or water as it drops, while the engine is running. I use a small funnel with a rag wrapped around the radiator neck to collect any overflow. When the coolant stops dropping, final fill to the bottom of the neck, reinstall the radiator cap. allow the system to pressurize.
Previous to this, you have removed the coolant reservior, drained and cleaned it. Carefully remove the hose from the cap and drain it of old coolant. Reinstall the hose and it's clamp. Fill the reservior to half way on the marks. Reinstall the plastic cap.
Insure the heater is running hot after the guage shows moving to the midway point. After reaching full operating temperature, shut down the engine and allow to cool. As it does, it will burp out air as it pulls in coolant from the reservior.
Finally, after the engine has cooled, reopen the radiator, top up the the neck if necessary and refill the reservoir to the half way point. Eye check this reservior level several times in the first few days of driving. Don't allow it to fill more than the MAX level when the engine is hot, lower than the MIN mark when cooled.
Many forget to turn on the heater when purging the system.
start the engine.
The coolant may rise slightly, the fall quickly as the thermostat starts to open, usually a couple of minutes. Be prepared to add more coolant or water as it drops, while the engine is running. I use a small funnel with a rag wrapped around the radiator neck to collect any overflow. When the coolant stops dropping, final fill to the bottom of the neck, reinstall the radiator cap. allow the system to pressurize.
Previous to this, you have removed the coolant reservior, drained and cleaned it. Carefully remove the hose from the cap and drain it of old coolant. Reinstall the hose and it's clamp. Fill the reservior to half way on the marks. Reinstall the plastic cap.
Insure the heater is running hot after the guage shows moving to the midway point. After reaching full operating temperature, shut down the engine and allow to cool. As it does, it will burp out air as it pulls in coolant from the reservior.
Finally, after the engine has cooled, reopen the radiator, top up the the neck if necessary and refill the reservoir to the half way point. Eye check this reservior level several times in the first few days of driving. Don't allow it to fill more than the MAX level when the engine is hot, lower than the MIN mark when cooled.
Many forget to turn on the heater when purging the system.
05-25-06, 08:06 AM
#33
Super Moderator
Tammy,
My experience with the last point (even when Lexus did it and used water (won't get into that reason again) is that one overnight will suffice with checking MIN/MAX level in the morning on the RX, but on other vehicles I have seen that it does take a few days.
My uncle and I just bought a 1996 Dodge Caravan as my temporary work car (I am 90% sure I am going to get an old Maverick as the permanent one) and it took 5 days to make sure it would stay within the max/min levels.
My experience with the last point (even when Lexus did it and used water (won't get into that reason again) is that one overnight will suffice with checking MIN/MAX level in the morning on the RX, but on other vehicles I have seen that it does take a few days.
My uncle and I just bought a 1996 Dodge Caravan as my temporary work car (I am 90% sure I am going to get an old Maverick as the permanent one) and it took 5 days to make sure it would stay within the max/min levels.
05-25-06, 09:22 PM
#34
Intermediate
Thread Starter
nice info.
Let me just get it clear.
Drain radiator by turning the white valve on radiator(take cap off)? Drain the engine block(I can't seem to understand the picture in that manual where that one is. Can anybody help? What pattern is the bolt?).
Close the valve and put normal water in. Turn on engine(heater on max at all time?) and let it run till operating temperature.
Drain again, this time pour in the 50/50 into radiator, leaving cap off. Run Engine(do i need to care about the reservoir?) until thermostat opens and allow coolant to circulate. Add more coolant until radiator is full. Put reservoir back and add coolant to half way pt. Put cap back and run the system again. Wait till it cools, open cap and fill in more coolant?
I have the AWD version, so 61lb tq on engine block drain plug. What do they mean by "union"?
Let me just get it clear.
Drain radiator by turning the white valve on radiator(take cap off)? Drain the engine block(I can't seem to understand the picture in that manual where that one is. Can anybody help? What pattern is the bolt?).
Close the valve and put normal water in. Turn on engine(heater on max at all time?) and let it run till operating temperature.
Drain again, this time pour in the 50/50 into radiator, leaving cap off. Run Engine(do i need to care about the reservoir?) until thermostat opens and allow coolant to circulate. Add more coolant until radiator is full. Put reservoir back and add coolant to half way pt. Put cap back and run the system again. Wait till it cools, open cap and fill in more coolant?
I have the AWD version, so 61lb tq on engine block drain plug. What do they mean by "union"?
Last edited by wing0; 05-25-06 at 10:34 PM.
05-26-06, 05:37 AM
#35
Lexus Champion
I'm refering to a previous posting...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...t=Pink+coolant
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...t=Pink+coolant
This refers to the latest Toyota coolant. It is an upgrade over the red. It is premixed.
And , that's 61 inch pounds of torque, equalling 5 foot pounds. This is just past snug, tighting the brass valve..
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...t=Pink+coolant
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...t=Pink+coolant
This refers to the latest Toyota coolant. It is an upgrade over the red. It is premixed.
And , that's 61 inch pounds of torque, equalling 5 foot pounds. This is just past snug, tighting the brass valve..
Last edited by Tammy; 05-26-06 at 05:41 AM.
05-26-06, 08:00 AM
#36
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by Lexmex
When you start getting issues with the leaking at higher mileage, that is the time to reevaluate whether to stay at 5W30 or going to a 5W40 or for some a 5W50. I don't have 5W40, so the 0W40 works just fine. Yes, leaks can occur with synthetics, but one needs to remember you need to be vigilant in watching when you change your oil whether with dino or with synthetic.
05-26-06, 08:04 AM
#37
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by wing0
I was reading my manual and it says to change the long life every 36months/48000km. The green stuff is the one that last 2 years??
As for air trapped. So after I refill the radiator(from the cap) and the overflow tank. Do I let the engine run without the pressure cap put back on to let air out? or just drive and the air will eventually get out through circulation?
Out of the 3 things, I have the least experience in changing coolant, sorry.
As for air trapped. So after I refill the radiator(from the cap) and the overflow tank. Do I let the engine run without the pressure cap put back on to let air out? or just drive and the air will eventually get out through circulation?
Out of the 3 things, I have the least experience in changing coolant, sorry.
You could run the engine, but that's a waste of gas. Simply drive it and check the coolant level next day.
Among the 3 things, coolant change is probably the easiest on the RX300. :-) So if you can do oil and ATF fluid, coolant should be a piece of cake for you.
05-26-06, 08:34 AM
#38
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by HarrierAWD
I personally use the 2 year / 30K mile interval in my RX300 manual. The green stuff claims 3 years.
You could run the engine, but that's a waste of gas. Simply drive it and check the coolant level next day.
Among the 3 things, coolant change is probably the easiest on the RX300. :-) So if you can do oil and ATF fluid, coolant should be a piece of cake for you.
You could run the engine, but that's a waste of gas. Simply drive it and check the coolant level next day.
Among the 3 things, coolant change is probably the easiest on the RX300. :-) So if you can do oil and ATF fluid, coolant should be a piece of cake for you.
It looks like there's two in the front and I can't find the one in the engine block. Does the valve let coolant come out or that's where the coolant will come out. I will head to home depot or something and get this 5/16 tubes.
05-26-06, 09:21 AM
#39
Super Moderator
Originally Posted by wing0
I guess I have the problem of finding where all the plugs are.
It looks like there's two in the front and I can't find the one in the engine block. Does the valve let coolant come out or that's where the coolant will come out. I will head to home depot or something and get this 5/16 tubes.
It looks like there's two in the front and I can't find the one in the engine block. Does the valve let coolant come out or that's where the coolant will come out. I will head to home depot or something and get this 5/16 tubes.
HarrierAWD, ever hear the jello stories with the red and the green?
Every so often, my uncle brings in car where someone went to the store and then mixed the good coolant with the bad or vice-versa...if we ever get one of those in the near future, will show some to the group.
05-26-06, 09:56 AM
#40
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Lexmex
Let me see if I can find those plugs and post a better photo (My RX, an AWD, is downstairs). Coolant can get messy when changing. Be back in a bit.
HarrierAWD, ever hear the jello stories with the red and the green?
Every so often, my uncle brings in car where someone went to the store and then mixed the good coolant with the bad or vice-versa...if we ever get one of those in the near future, will show some to the group.
HarrierAWD, ever hear the jello stories with the red and the green?
Every so often, my uncle brings in car where someone went to the store and then mixed the good coolant with the bad or vice-versa...if we ever get one of those in the near future, will show some to the group.
What bolt pattern is the one on the engine block?
Also, the white valve on radiator is where the coolant will flow out? or that controls the flow?
05-26-06, 10:33 AM
#41
Super Moderator
I apologize that I couldn't get the 4WD valve photographed as the engine cover interfered and I didn't have too much light even with the flash or even the tools to take it off, but I did get a shot of where that union piece was as shown below. The Engine Mechanical (EM) portion in the service manual shows a better idea of the location next to the oil. I called my uncle and he said they would just pull the plug shown below and then radiator plug as shown on ederny's site, http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/anti_freeze.htm
P.S. Notice it says 1MZ nearby for the engine configuration, first time I have ever noticed that.
P.S. Notice it says 1MZ nearby for the engine configuration, first time I have ever noticed that.
05-26-06, 10:52 AM
#42
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks.
At least I got one down.
The other drain plug is on the radiator itself correct? Right under the white valve?
From the picture in HOW2, I still can't figure out where the 4wd drain is...
Is at the back of the engine? How would I get to it? From the top or bottom of the car?
At least I got one down.
The other drain plug is on the radiator itself correct? Right under the white valve?
From the picture in HOW2, I still can't figure out where the 4wd drain is...
Is at the back of the engine? How would I get to it? From the top or bottom of the car?
05-26-06, 11:04 AM
#43
Super Moderator
Originally Posted by wing0
Thanks.
At least I got one down.
The other drain plug is on the radiator itself correct? Right under the white valve?
From the picture in HOW2, I still can't figure out where the 4wd drain is...
Is at the back of the engine? How would I get to it? From the top or bottom of the car?
At least I got one down.
The other drain plug is on the radiator itself correct? Right under the white valve?
From the picture in HOW2, I still can't figure out where the 4wd drain is...
Is at the back of the engine? How would I get to it? From the top or bottom of the car?
The 4WD plug appears to need one to take off the plastic engine cover to get to it. Again, my uncle has never used that plug.
My uncle is actually making wedding preparations for Antonio Jr. (my cousin who did the transmission/transfer case/differential drains) for tomorrow, so the earliest I could take that cover off would be Sunday, but hopefully someone here can beat me to it.
05-26-06, 11:09 AM
#44
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Lexmex
In that diagram from the manual on ederny's site, where it says only drain plug that lower one is the radiator one and the the other one is the union plug that I showed.
The 4WD plug appears to need one to take off the plastic engine cover to get to it. Again, my uncle has never used that plug.
My uncle is actually making wedding preparations for Antonio Jr. (my cousin who did the transmission/transfer case/differential drains) for tomorrow, so the earliest I could take that cover off would be Sunday, but hopefully someone here can beat me to it.
The 4WD plug appears to need one to take off the plastic engine cover to get to it. Again, my uncle has never used that plug.
My uncle is actually making wedding preparations for Antonio Jr. (my cousin who did the transmission/transfer case/differential drains) for tomorrow, so the earliest I could take that cover off would be Sunday, but hopefully someone here can beat me to it.
05-26-06, 11:31 AM
#45
Super Moderator
Last year I installed my TRD Thermostat and we actually removed several hoses close to where the OEM thermostat was and that drained pretty much all of the fluid. However, I would actually have to do another coolant drain to demonstrate what we did.