TunedRX300

I bought one gasket and one filter from Park Place Lexus in Plano for $46.30, free shipping and no tax. I hope the O ring is included with the filter. Anyway I will get to it after I get back from my vacation, parts should be waiting for me. I will post DIY photos and instructions, we will find out those pet porcupines made into my tranny

duane

As LexMex says, dropping the tranny pan is more busy work than difficult. Taking out the 18 bolts and then re-installing and torquing takes some time.

After reading about the flush debates, I decided to do 3 fluid changes instead, the last two removing the tranny pan. I was not going to remove the pan on the third fluid change, until I was made aware of the magnet placement. I could not remember where I had placed them, so I removed the pan again. As I had indicated, the first fluid change was just a drain and re-fill. I was a little surprised when I dropped the pan to see the silver dust (as I call it) . I was glad I had a chance to hand clean the pan, filter exterior and magnets. I have never seen or had a flush done, but I wonder whether the flush would have equalled the hand cleaning.

Any guesses as what the silver dust is. I'm quessing its aluminum from the tranny casing.

I thought the screen mesh was very fine (not coarse) in the tranny filter. When I looked from inlet to outlet and vice versa, it was very clean. Only a couple of particles were caught in the mesh. It is a metal filter, by the way.

The tranny pan gasket is a composite cork/rubber. It can probably be re-used, but if it leaks when your done, than draining out your new fluid and tackling the 18 bolts again would be a huge bummer. I opted for the OEM gasket as piece of mind. Again, the tranny filter looked clean to me, but for peace of mind, I should have just replaced it.

Lexmex

After reading that Audi article and seeing those porcupines, I wonder how this over time, even with drain and fills and/or flushes, will affect the transmission (including possible failure) when the pan/filter is never removed.

In a few weeks or so, I plan to get a second car (1975 or earlier due to strange driving days laws we have here and my workplace having street parking) and it will also be an automatic. Might be kind of interesting when I finally get my hands on it to see what's in one of those.

salimshah

Bolts is easy [tip: leave a few partially threaded so that the pan does not drop to ground when you seperate it].

FIPG bonds well with metal and to break that seal is a pain in the rear. You dont want to be too intrusive with a flat screwdriver [to prevent damage to the face] and there is limited access and the joint is burried couple of inches above. Aggrevation adds specially if you dont have a lift.

I think there is sst (special service tool) to break the seal.

Next pain is in removing the dried fipg. I did not have a grinder with wire-brush, so it had to be clawed off. I had sore fingers for a day or two.

Enough whining.
Salim