I removed the door panel to examine the situation and have decided to " bend-over " and have the dealer perform the repair. The actual part costs about $150.00 and the dealer quoted about 3 hours' labor, so I figured it should be in the neighborhood of $500.00. I may take it to the Toyota dealer for a repair quote also. I have more faith in Toyota dealer service because they service/repair much larger numbers of vehicles than does the Lexus dealer. From past experience with the Lexus dealer I've found that an oil/filter change is a " challenge " for them! [ Hand-tight oil-pan drain plug, twice out of 8 oil/filter changes; that's right, I go behind them on everything! ] They are " totally incapable " of diagnosing a problem without a " check-engine light " telling them first. The " idle-air-control " problem our car had convinced me that the Lexus dealer techs had NO CLUE!

 

Where did you find the part for $150? I have a quote for $230 from Plano/Irontoad

 

whats the part number, I'll pay $150 for one.

 

You're right! The price at Park Place Lexus is $223.00. I guess I was dreaming I was at a GM parts website. I just replaced both door window regulator/motors [ about an hour for each side ] in my 2001 Silverado [ $130.00 each from Pa. dealer ]. After removing/inspecting the RX300 " door internals " I've decided to let someone with RX300/Highlander experience tackle the job. I guess I'll have to " bend over " farther, even if I take it to the Toyota dealer. I still have the opinion that the " perceived " resale/trade-in value advantage that the Lexus has over other vehicles pretty much vanishes if the vehicle is purchased new from a dealer [ at near full window/retail ] and then serviced/repaired at a Leuxs dealer during the time of ownership. I guess " snoot-appeal/appearance " is worth every cent to a lot of people. Over 60% of Lexus vehicles are leased [ RENTED ]; so much for the investment aspect.

 

My passenger side is doing the exact same thing. My driver window unit is weird also- it will roll down...if I stop it on the way down and press up... it will require it to go all the way down... then will proceed to go up.
I was thinking on removing the door panel and just replacing the actuator... does that look like a tough job?

 

Please post your findings. I was told that the window issue is separate from the actuator for the lock! Ironically the window is acting up (from the passenger door but not the driver's control) and the lock is working better! I've decided as long as it locks and the window operates I'll let it goo for now. The car turned 8 today. We really need to put it in semi-retirement.

 

any chance...or f=does anyone know if this actuator is the same on a Highlander... i.e. less coin...??

 

Any new update... I haven't taken my door panel off yet... wasn't sure how to proceed.. let dealer look at it... or try and fix myself..
What is everyone else with this problem doing? Just manually locking everytime gets old.

 

Does anyone have a picture diy of taking the door panel off. Or a door blowout so that i do not break anything.

Thanks

 

I have replaced the door actuator lock assembly on the drivers door, I tried to repair it but the solenoid (motor ) was worn out. It was costly $240 for the part. A person with fair mechanical skills can replace it. Removing the door panel was tedious, trying to not destroy the wood veneer and plastic.
Has worked great ever since. I dont believe the highlander has the same mechanism. It is different as I remember. There is a hidden screw under the switch assembly also, which requires prying the wood bezel very carefully to get to it. Wish I had pictures but i dont. good luck. Common problem on the older RX300, my friends just died recently also. Mine went a couple of years ago. Good luck everyone.

 

Had a similar issue on 2001 Toyota 4Runner Limited. Doors unlock with the remote but would not lock with remote. Doors would also not lock with the toggle inside drivers door. Had to manually lock each door, a real pain. After testing at an indepent Japanese shop, they found that the door actuator drivers side worked fine but the signal to lock was not working from the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) under the dash to send the signal to the door actuator to lock. I think the drivers actuator is the master to lock the other three doors. So if the drivers door gets no signal from ECU none of doors will lock. I paid $450 for a new ECU and it was about 2 hours labor ($80 per hour). It works fine now. So consider having ECU output tested before replacing drivers side actuator. Otherwise you could have a new actuator and still not get the doors to remotely lock.

 

similar door lock actuator problem on '00 RX300, 107K miles. It causes additional problem as I was getting a new remote key and dealer cannot program the door lock/unlock portion of the remote because the driver door actuator is not functioning properly. 3 out of 5 on/off pressing on the door button on the driver door, results in stucked door lock(didnt move). Hence they say cannot program the key.

Is it true that a new remote key cannot be programmed for door lock/unlock because of driver door actuator problem?
No other workaround?

The ignition portion of the programming works so I can start the car ok with the new key.

Thanks.

 

Agree with Salim that sometimes these strings leave you somewhat frustrated. What was the solution / cost? I have a 99 RX300 with no electrical problems to date, but our 2001 4Runner had an electrical door lock failure. The doors would remotely unlock, but not lock remotely or with door toggle. The driver door actuator is the master and the other three doors are slaves to the driver door. So it the other three doors lock but driver door does not maybe the driver door actuator is suspect. In my case since none of them locked I had independent repair shop test the driver actuator. It worked so that meant the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) under the dash was not sending a signal to lock the doors. I replaced it. Part was about $350 and three hours labor at $80/hr was $600 for the job and made the fix.

As far as gas mileage, the 99 has a small tank, 14 gallons of which about 12.5is usable, the other 1.5 are at the bottom of the tank and wont get sucked up by the float. At 18mpg I reliable get a range of 225 miles.

 

i am having similar problems with the remote keyless entry not working on the driver's door and also the front passenger door.

i did recently purchase and program a new key myself using the manual lock/unlock switch in the door (not the central locking switch in the door close to the window). my new key will now open/close the the 2 rear doors and trunk (just like the master). so, it looks like it can be done but if i can't lock/unlock all the doors what's the point?

curious though about the removing the battery post though. i will give it a try and see if it works.

 

I have a similar problem with my 99 RX300. all doors unlock fine but when i press the remote to lock, all doors lock except for the driver side door. I can hear the lock mechanism locking but a few seconds later, i can hear it unlock. i'll try disconnecting the battery tomorrow and will see what happens.