RX300 trans won't shift into OD
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When the knock sensors sense something in the motor knocking they trigger the check engine light which then puts the transmission into a limp mode and it goes into a default gear and it will not go into overdirve this does not mean the knock senors are bad need to find the problem making the knock sensor sense a knock in the engine I have found this out after being told by 3 transmission places I needed a new trans and knock senors sometime can be the timing off
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If the knock sensor have triggered the check engine light then the trans goes into a limp mode and into a default gear and the trans will not shift into overdrive. it is rare that knock sensors are bad but the code will read knock sensors bad when it actually is something knocking and they are sensing it. My 2000 lexus was doing the same thing and it was due to the timing being off which is a result of regular maint and having the timing belt and waterpump replaced.
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Thanks for the reply's everyone,
I did replace the MAF ( dealer recomended as well as a local Toyota mechanic) and after clearing the missfire codes the car is now shifting properly.
Now I just need to determine my P0125 code for the insufficient coolant temp and I might have everything resolved.
I did replace the MAF ( dealer recomended as well as a local Toyota mechanic) and after clearing the missfire codes the car is now shifting properly.
Now I just need to determine my P0125 code for the insufficient coolant temp and I might have everything resolved.
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My view point is more philosophical on this subject..
Auto trans is the most complicated piece of a vehicle. Not every shop [Lexus dealership included] is equipped to make transmission repairs. If your customer has deep(er) pocket and your success is based on NO-COMPLAINTS after repairs then the replacement is the only logical answer. Now on the other hand if you had a trianed crew and facility you may give your customer the choice that you will open it up and fix it and charge for labor and parts.
It will be a shame if your mechanic finds out that it was a linkage problem or a connector issue. If it is an internal problem, then at least I see the Lexus dealership point of view. [not necessarily agree with them but at least understand where they are coming from].
Salim
Auto trans is the most complicated piece of a vehicle. Not every shop [Lexus dealership included] is equipped to make transmission repairs. If your customer has deep(er) pocket and your success is based on NO-COMPLAINTS after repairs then the replacement is the only logical answer. Now on the other hand if you had a trianed crew and facility you may give your customer the choice that you will open it up and fix it and charge for labor and parts.
It will be a shame if your mechanic finds out that it was a linkage problem or a connector issue. If it is an internal problem, then at least I see the Lexus dealership point of view. [not necessarily agree with them but at least understand where they are coming from].
Salim
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The MAF seemed to help the hesitation and rough idle. I did read that you might want to try cleaning the MAF instead of replaceing it. I just replaced it since I was at the dealer and wanted them to see if that solved the problem before I left (don't want to pay for diagnostics twice)
Someone here can probably give you good instructions on how to clean the MAF.
However I don't think everything is resolved because the check engine light is back on again
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Just curious, how do I find out if the OD is not working properly? I notice on my 01 RX300 AWD, the rpm is 3000 when cruising at about 72, 73 mph. Is that normal? The "O/D off" light is off, so I always assume the OD is working fine. Thanks!
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Turn off the O/D (O/D off light would be on).
Accelerate up to what you were doing at 72 or 73 mph...you can do less, but the feeling is more pronounced.
Then push the O/D button back in...you should be able to feel a difference.
I know this from doing this at the track where I get a slightly better time with O/D off and the PWR button on (had to do numerous tests).
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Thanks Lexmex! But can't you tell by looking at the rpm when cruising at, say, 75 mph? I mean, if the OD is not working, the rpm should be higher than if OD is working. Correct?
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It is always tough to tell with RPMs...I will read something in the manual that says these RPMS at this mph...will go out and try it on the road...and not the same. My uncle said the same thing...RPMs can differ depending on the conditions...so the can can be generally consistent, but not specifically consistent.
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I'm pretty sure yours is working, because when Mine wasn't working it was at 3000 rpm while doing about 55mph.
The previous statment was true about turing off the O/D. Just Turn it off then get to crusing speed and turn it on and you should feel the car shift and watch the RPM's drop. When my O/D wasn't functioning I tried this and saw no diference in RPMs.
Mine was disabled due to a multiple missfire code in the computer, so if you have any codes registering it is possible that yours might be disabled. Once you clear the codes the computer will start to use O/D again.
The previous statment was true about turing off the O/D. Just Turn it off then get to crusing speed and turn it on and you should feel the car shift and watch the RPM's drop. When my O/D wasn't functioning I tried this and saw no diference in RPMs.
Mine was disabled due to a multiple missfire code in the computer, so if you have any codes registering it is possible that yours might be disabled. Once you clear the codes the computer will start to use O/D again.
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