Oil Change
08-17-06, 08:05 AM
#1
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Oil Change
Sorry to bother everyone with such a trivial querry; but I need to do an oil change tonight and haven't done one yet.
RX 300 yr2000
1. What type of oil should I use (it has been previously done by the Lexus/Toyota dealer and i would like to continue running something simmilar) and how much?
2. What filter should I use? I like to use the Fram''s on my other vehicles and was planning on it for the RX, so let me know if I should do otherwise.
3. Is there anything extra I should keep in mind durring the process? I don't have an owners manual so I won't know if there is some trick to finding/getting the filter off or something like that. Being a Lexus, I just wory I'll get in there and come accross something that stups me.
I would really appreciate any advice,
Thanks in advance!
RX 300 yr2000
1. What type of oil should I use (it has been previously done by the Lexus/Toyota dealer and i would like to continue running something simmilar) and how much?
2. What filter should I use? I like to use the Fram''s on my other vehicles and was planning on it for the RX, so let me know if I should do otherwise.
3. Is there anything extra I should keep in mind durring the process? I don't have an owners manual so I won't know if there is some trick to finding/getting the filter off or something like that. Being a Lexus, I just wory I'll get in there and come accross something that stups me.
I would really appreciate any advice,
Thanks in advance!
08-17-06, 08:41 AM
#2
Super Moderator
Though common to all vehicles, actually no so trivial to the RX300...you brought up a good question, especially in light of topic 1.
1. Up until a few weeks ago, I might have still recommended 99.9% (.1% is for my unique case) Mobil 1 5W30, but some of the other members will chime in about the recent discussions on 5W20.
2. Toyota, Mobil 1 and my personal favorite the K&N HP-1002 (since it has a 1 inch nut on the top for easier removal).
3. A lot of people in this forum have some great tips. Everyone seems to have their own unique mannerisms that all work great. I personally, easier with the K&N, remove the oil filter from the top of the engine bay as opposed to from the bottom, which is more common. I´ll defer to the rest of the members on this one.
1. Up until a few weeks ago, I might have still recommended 99.9% (.1% is for my unique case) Mobil 1 5W30, but some of the other members will chime in about the recent discussions on 5W20.
2. Toyota, Mobil 1 and my personal favorite the K&N HP-1002 (since it has a 1 inch nut on the top for easier removal).
3. A lot of people in this forum have some great tips. Everyone seems to have their own unique mannerisms that all work great. I personally, easier with the K&N, remove the oil filter from the top of the engine bay as opposed to from the bottom, which is more common. I´ll defer to the rest of the members on this one.
08-17-06, 10:02 AM
#4
1) check out this thread, pay special attention to what our engine does with mineral based oil and Toyota's new service bulletin on oil recommended for xMZ family engine, which covers the RX300
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214826
2) Only FRAM Extended Guard, other FRAM have paper end caps. For same $, you can get better filter NAPA Gold (Wix).
3) use search function, discussed many times in this forum
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214826
2) Only FRAM Extended Guard, other FRAM have paper end caps. For same $, you can get better filter NAPA Gold (Wix).
3) use search function, discussed many times in this forum
Last edited by TunedRX300; 08-27-06 at 09:46 AM.
08-17-06, 12:15 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
Many dealers have used Castrol GTX 5W-30.
A Toyota filter or the K&N oil filters seem to perform better than the Fram.
If a Toyota is used a 74MM across "cap" type filter tool, with a 3/8 drive ratchet, is recommended.
K&N uses a one inch socket for removal.
The bottom cooling pan is removed with a 10mm socket and nutdriver. The aligner pins are removed with two small flat screwdrivers, placed under the center pin and simultaneously twisting the pin up. These are replaced first, holding the cover up and in place.
Replacing the screws, tighten just past snug, as not to crack the cover with the screws.
With the pan off, place a rag under the oil filter prior to removal, just above the engine mount, catching any oil spill from the filter.
The filter may be removed from the bottom or the top. The small driving lamps (DRL) fuse box may be removed for more service room by pressing the lock away from you and lifting it from the steel holder. Then place next to the battery.
Always wipe down the filter mating surface on the engine block, insuring the seal from the filter just removed is not stuck to the engine. Two seals will leak oil and get messy.
When installing the filter, I just finger tighten, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn. A little bearing grease is good on the new filter seal, preventing it from sticking when removed.
I line my drain pan with a 30 gallon plastic bag, for easier clean up.
A 14mm socket is used to remove the oil pan plug. It is recommended to replace the plug washer or seal every time opened. It is 12mm ID. The plug is re-torqued to 35 Ft Lbs with a new seal fitted...(30 Ft Lb with a reused seal.)
A Toyota filter or the K&N oil filters seem to perform better than the Fram.
If a Toyota is used a 74MM across "cap" type filter tool, with a 3/8 drive ratchet, is recommended.
K&N uses a one inch socket for removal.
The bottom cooling pan is removed with a 10mm socket and nutdriver. The aligner pins are removed with two small flat screwdrivers, placed under the center pin and simultaneously twisting the pin up. These are replaced first, holding the cover up and in place.
Replacing the screws, tighten just past snug, as not to crack the cover with the screws.
With the pan off, place a rag under the oil filter prior to removal, just above the engine mount, catching any oil spill from the filter.
The filter may be removed from the bottom or the top. The small driving lamps (DRL) fuse box may be removed for more service room by pressing the lock away from you and lifting it from the steel holder. Then place next to the battery.
Always wipe down the filter mating surface on the engine block, insuring the seal from the filter just removed is not stuck to the engine. Two seals will leak oil and get messy.
When installing the filter, I just finger tighten, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn. A little bearing grease is good on the new filter seal, preventing it from sticking when removed.
I line my drain pan with a 30 gallon plastic bag, for easier clean up.
A 14mm socket is used to remove the oil pan plug. It is recommended to replace the plug washer or seal every time opened. It is 12mm ID. The plug is re-torqued to 35 Ft Lbs with a new seal fitted...(30 Ft Lb with a reused seal.)
08-17-06, 01:16 PM
#6
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"The bottom cooling pan is removed with a 10mm socket and nutdriver. The aligner pins are removed with two small flat screwdrivers, placed under the center pin and simultaneously twisting the pin up. These are replaced first, holding the cover up and in place.
Replacing the screws, tighten just past snug, as not to crack the cover with the screws."
1. I guess I've never had to deal with a cooling pan?? Is it essential for removing the filter?
2. The posts I was refered to said that everyone was moving to a 5W-20 from the standard 5W-30. What do you all think? I am defininitely not going with the synthetic however.
Replacing the screws, tighten just past snug, as not to crack the cover with the screws."
1. I guess I've never had to deal with a cooling pan?? Is it essential for removing the filter?
2. The posts I was refered to said that everyone was moving to a 5W-20 from the standard 5W-30. What do you all think? I am defininitely not going with the synthetic however.
08-17-06, 01:40 PM
#7
Moderator
I am old school about grade and prefer using oil with low spread. Sure the additives give the broader range but I try to use oil with a spread of 20 and buy different grades for summer and winter.
5-40 grade usually covers all contigeous (sp?) USA. Much easier to stock one grade for parts & service.
Salim
5-40 grade usually covers all contigeous (sp?) USA. Much easier to stock one grade for parts & service.
Salim
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08-17-06, 02:22 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
It's used to 5W-30. Some engines don't cater to changes...
It's much less messy with dripping oil when the pan is removed. It gives you a chance to inspect the vacuum lines, other rubber hoses and clean the crud out.
I use the Aerospace 303 to preserve the plastic on both sides and reinstall. and a little grease on the bolts prevents their rusting in the future and ease of future removal.
As a gentle reminder, check and vacuum or replace if needed both the air filters, engine and cabin. Toyota dealers provide the best price.
It's much less messy with dripping oil when the pan is removed. It gives you a chance to inspect the vacuum lines, other rubber hoses and clean the crud out.
I use the Aerospace 303 to preserve the plastic on both sides and reinstall. and a little grease on the bolts prevents their rusting in the future and ease of future removal.
As a gentle reminder, check and vacuum or replace if needed both the air filters, engine and cabin. Toyota dealers provide the best price.
08-17-06, 02:47 PM
#9
For 1MZ-FE family, aka sluge monster, Toyota 5w-30 bulk oil (filled at the dealership!) was tested after 200 miles of oil change. It is sheared to a 20 weight oil already. Looks like dino users have been driving around with 20 weight oil before the first tank of gas is used up.
I don't think anyone here is thrilled at 5w-30 to become 5w-20 this quickly, but this is what I meant "pay special attention to what our engine does with mineral based oil".
Even more important is to pay close attence to the acid neutralization additive package consumption rate. That dictates how soon you need to change oil, especially after 8 year unlimited extended warranty expires.
I don't think anyone here is thrilled at 5w-30 to become 5w-20 this quickly, but this is what I meant "pay special attention to what our engine does with mineral based oil".
Even more important is to pay close attence to the acid neutralization additive package consumption rate. That dictates how soon you need to change oil, especially after 8 year unlimited extended warranty expires.
08-19-06, 05:31 AM
#10
Lead Lap
No offence guys but, the last few posts by Tammy and TunedRX300 with reference to "cooling pans", etc... seam so complicated, even I would dread changing the oil myself for the first time.
I don't want to start another synthetic vs. Dino discussion but, just do the research, you are better protected with 5w30 synthetic vs. any 5w20 conventional oil
I have used 5w30 synthetic since I purchased the vehicle and get no valve noise upon startup in our cold Canadian winters. Also, have no fear of sludge buildup since I change it every 4000miles and use genuine Toyota filters every change.
In my opinion the reason SOME manufacturers are jumping on the 5w20 wagon are in support of CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy). The higher the rating the more competative they are. This excluding those who designed more restrictive oil passages in there engines and for fear of oil starvation at the farther passages recommend lower weight oil to compensate. I think when you combine higher restrictive passages with the potential for sludge, you get one nasty outcome! Like I said, I would rather use synthetic 5w30 weight any day of the year over conventional 5w20.
Hey LEXMEX, what's your take on the 5w20 given your altitude and the temperature your car reaches on your sunday morning drives at the strip :-)
I don't want to start another synthetic vs. Dino discussion but, just do the research, you are better protected with 5w30 synthetic vs. any 5w20 conventional oil
I have used 5w30 synthetic since I purchased the vehicle and get no valve noise upon startup in our cold Canadian winters. Also, have no fear of sludge buildup since I change it every 4000miles and use genuine Toyota filters every change.
In my opinion the reason SOME manufacturers are jumping on the 5w20 wagon are in support of CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy). The higher the rating the more competative they are. This excluding those who designed more restrictive oil passages in there engines and for fear of oil starvation at the farther passages recommend lower weight oil to compensate. I think when you combine higher restrictive passages with the potential for sludge, you get one nasty outcome! Like I said, I would rather use synthetic 5w30 weight any day of the year over conventional 5w20.
Hey LEXMEX, what's your take on the 5w20 given your altitude and the temperature your car reaches on your sunday morning drives at the strip :-)
08-19-06, 10:58 AM
#11
Fern,
Let me explain my previous post.
Viscosity is a measure of oil's resistance to flow, difference between 5w-30 and 5w-20 is the 20 weight oil's viscosity is closer to the perfect 10 cSt value for lubrication on the lower temperature operating range. On the higher temperature range, the difference is small. That is why you see 20 weight is thought to be a CAFE oil, but if one looks closely at Toyota's TSB, it explained better reliability and longer engine wear is also an important feature. Both Ford and Honda's official statements confirm Toyota's TSB.
Engine combusion process makes oil acidic. To prevent oil from corroding metals in the engine, all oil have alkaline additives to neutralize acid. Synthetic oil usually have beefer additive package, indicated by the higher Total Base Number found in some oil spec. When it is consumed, the oil need to be changed.
Both the chemical and physical properties mentioned above can not be measured accurately with "how black the oil look" method. Our engine 1mzfe is an absolute oil chewing machine. IMHO Lexus' severe oil change interval recommendation is not a good rule of thumb. Check the thread I posted above and pay special attention to what our engine does to both the physical and chemical properties, especially if you have one of early 99 models with 8 year "sludge" warranty now expired.
Let me explain my previous post.
Viscosity is a measure of oil's resistance to flow, difference between 5w-30 and 5w-20 is the 20 weight oil's viscosity is closer to the perfect 10 cSt value for lubrication on the lower temperature operating range. On the higher temperature range, the difference is small. That is why you see 20 weight is thought to be a CAFE oil, but if one looks closely at Toyota's TSB, it explained better reliability and longer engine wear is also an important feature. Both Ford and Honda's official statements confirm Toyota's TSB.
Engine combusion process makes oil acidic. To prevent oil from corroding metals in the engine, all oil have alkaline additives to neutralize acid. Synthetic oil usually have beefer additive package, indicated by the higher Total Base Number found in some oil spec. When it is consumed, the oil need to be changed.
Both the chemical and physical properties mentioned above can not be measured accurately with "how black the oil look" method. Our engine 1mzfe is an absolute oil chewing machine. IMHO Lexus' severe oil change interval recommendation is not a good rule of thumb. Check the thread I posted above and pay special attention to what our engine does to both the physical and chemical properties, especially if you have one of early 99 models with 8 year "sludge" warranty now expired.
08-22-06, 03:34 PM
#12
Lead Lap
just though I would post that I too am with Koolaidman in that I will not change from 5w30 synthetic to 5w20
See the link
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
Sorry, no sale of 5w20 here
See the link
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
Sorry, no sale of 5w20 here
08-22-06, 04:43 PM
#13
I suggest you research on synlube's background, and search for independent scientific data to backup their claim.
Alway consider the source, everyone is selling
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=011708
Alway consider the source, everyone is selling
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=011708
08-23-06, 07:04 AM
#14
Super Moderator
With 5W20, one issue may initially be availability. I know of it not being down here as I checked with a Toyota dealership via phone this morning. That might be the same up there. Point is I would only want to use a 5W20 synthetic not a regular 5W20.
Yes, I agree the 1MZFE is an oil chewing machine regardless of what weight I have tried. A 5W20 should help get into further passages to better cool down the engines. I actually added 5W30 to my 0W40 mix not too long ago for this very reason, despite my earlier concern for shearing effects of the 5W30. Might I add 5W20 to the mix...I would certainly give it a test should it become available down here.
Remember, the 5W20 is coming out of Toyota´s mouth.
Yes, I agree the 1MZFE is an oil chewing machine regardless of what weight I have tried. A 5W20 should help get into further passages to better cool down the engines. I actually added 5W30 to my 0W40 mix not too long ago for this very reason, despite my earlier concern for shearing effects of the 5W30. Might I add 5W20 to the mix...I would certainly give it a test should it become available down here.
Remember, the 5W20 is coming out of Toyota´s mouth.
