Cracked Exhaust manifold part #
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Cracked Exhaust manifold part #
Have a small crack in the manifold facing the front of the car and was wondering what the part # (& price) is for the 1999 Rx300 AWD
also wondering what the part number for the Camry (same engine) and price was
Dealer quoted me $420 CAD + tax removal and replace (they say that this price is the discounted price, due to the extent of repairs I have had done at there dealership). Must they keep reminding me
I can't figure the removal and reinstall of the manifold to take longer than 1 hour and as such why the crazy cost.
Is the front manifold really a $300 part? Why can't the manifold be welded?
I was contemplating taking it to an exhaust shop to comment on the welding but didn't want them damaging something in the process.
Input appreciated.
also wondering what the part number for the Camry (same engine) and price was
Dealer quoted me $420 CAD + tax removal and replace (they say that this price is the discounted price, due to the extent of repairs I have had done at there dealership). Must they keep reminding me
I can't figure the removal and reinstall of the manifold to take longer than 1 hour and as such why the crazy cost.
Is the front manifold really a $300 part? Why can't the manifold be welded?
I was contemplating taking it to an exhaust shop to comment on the welding but didn't want them damaging something in the process.
Input appreciated.
#2
Out of Warranty
I've had manifolds welded up before with good results, but it takes an experienced welder who is practiced at working with cast materials. I've since seen this done on industrial engines, where the welder ground the crack to produce a clean work surface, then heated the manifold with a rosebud until it was cherry-red (something over 850 degrees), and filled the crack using a special rod and an acetylene torch. Care has to be taken to prevent the manifold from warping during this heat-cool cycle, even clamping the work into a makeshift jig, but a good shop welder can do it and produce a beautiful result.
My hat's off to these guys, real artists in steel, not just the garden-variety "burners" that tack on a trailer hitch every few weeks, but the guys (and gals) who do this kind of work every day. Never facing the same job twice, their knowledge of metals, temperatures, and techniques is pretty incredible - and it's saved the career of a number of engineers I've known.
My hat's off to these guys, real artists in steel, not just the garden-variety "burners" that tack on a trailer hitch every few weeks, but the guys (and gals) who do this kind of work every day. Never facing the same job twice, their knowledge of metals, temperatures, and techniques is pretty incredible - and it's saved the career of a number of engineers I've known.
#3
Super Moderator
I would also weld the thing,
My uncle welded this piece in question (lower piece in the middle) before I had it replaced last year with larger piping.
It would also not be hard to have a welder or exhaust shop remove said piece and install a small replacement section. An exhaust shop down here could do it for less than $75 USD easy or even less and steel pipe is cheap.
I have never actually seen the part number for this piece, though I have seen it mentioned over the years and the related issue.
As far as what damage you would do...absolutely none. It is nowhere near any sensors or catalytic converters.
My uncle welded this piece in question (lower piece in the middle) before I had it replaced last year with larger piping.
It would also not be hard to have a welder or exhaust shop remove said piece and install a small replacement section. An exhaust shop down here could do it for less than $75 USD easy or even less and steel pipe is cheap.
I have never actually seen the part number for this piece, though I have seen it mentioned over the years and the related issue.
As far as what damage you would do...absolutely none. It is nowhere near any sensors or catalytic converters.
#4
Moderator
Plugging the leak is an approach one can take. Provided there is enough room to work or remove-weld-replace.
The only issue I have is that you will loose some flexibility. Same applies with severity when you replace with a solid piece. The flex part not only provide fitting margin but also provides shock/vibration isolation. Without it you may cause stress in the exhaust. If flex breaks at the weak point (controllable) and the rigid may break with undesireable side effects.
Some one mentioned that the flex tubing has been improved over time.
Salim
The only issue I have is that you will loose some flexibility. Same applies with severity when you replace with a solid piece. The flex part not only provide fitting margin but also provides shock/vibration isolation. Without it you may cause stress in the exhaust. If flex breaks at the weak point (controllable) and the rigid may break with undesireable side effects.
Some one mentioned that the flex tubing has been improved over time.
Salim
#5
Pole Position
the independent muffler shop did mine with a honda style braided flex coupling for $95 total including the part. Looks great and so far has last a long time.
#6
Pole Position
contact park place Lexus online in Texas, they have your manifold for $172.I have ordered parts from them and have been very pleasantly surprised at their prices.
#7
Out of Warranty
If I understand Fern's question properly he is referring to a crack in the exhaust manifold up near the engine. Lots of good advice here on repairing the headpipe and joints, but has anyone had experience with a cracked manifold?
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#8
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
you beat me to it.
The key word here is EXHAUST "manifold" folks, not flexpipe or couplings..
I would remove it myself, if only I wasn't so scared of breaking bolts or the O2 sensor that might get damaged and the fact that I don't have the leverage working form above that a mechanic would working from below, while car is on a hoist.
#9
Super Moderator
Thanks Lil4X,
you beat me to it.
The key word here is EXHAUST "manifold" folks, not flexpipe or couplings..
I would remove it myself, if only I wasn't so scared of breaking bolts or the O2 sensor that might get damaged and the fact that I don't have the leverage working form above that a mechanic would working from below, while car is on a hoist.
you beat me to it.
The key word here is EXHAUST "manifold" folks, not flexpipe or couplings..
I would remove it myself, if only I wasn't so scared of breaking bolts or the O2 sensor that might get damaged and the fact that I don't have the leverage working form above that a mechanic would working from below, while car is on a hoist.
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hey Lexmex,
this might sound like a silly question but, did you have to remove the manifold to weld it?
If so, I'm just going to have mine replaced as the cost of the part is $288 and if the weld eventually goes bad, then I'm into the cost of labour 2x.
BTW mine cracked in the exact same spot at Lexmex's and my O2 sensor is giving me crazy driveabilility.
this might sound like a silly question but, did you have to remove the manifold to weld it?
If so, I'm just going to have mine replaced as the cost of the part is $288 and if the weld eventually goes bad, then I'm into the cost of labour 2x.
BTW mine cracked in the exact same spot at Lexmex's and my O2 sensor is giving me crazy driveabilility.
#11
Super Moderator
Hey Lexmex,
this might sound like a silly question but, did you have to remove the manifold to weld it?
If so, I'm just going to have mine replaced as the cost of the part is $288 and if the weld eventually goes bad, then I'm into the cost of labour 2x.
BTW mine cracked in the exact same spot at Lexmex's and my O2 sensor is giving me crazy driveabilility.
this might sound like a silly question but, did you have to remove the manifold to weld it?
If so, I'm just going to have mine replaced as the cost of the part is $288 and if the weld eventually goes bad, then I'm into the cost of labour 2x.
BTW mine cracked in the exact same spot at Lexmex's and my O2 sensor is giving me crazy driveabilility.
The other photo you see is when we took the entire piece off at Hangar-1 and replaced it with wider piping for more power/better flow.
#13
Pole Position
Have a small crack in the manifold facing the front of the car and was wondering what the part # (& price) is for the 1999 Rx300 AWD
also wondering what the part number for the Camry (same engine) and price was
Dealer quoted me $420 CAD + tax removal and replace (they say that this price is the discounted price, due to the extent of repairs I have had done at there dealership). Must they keep reminding me
I can't figure the removal and reinstall of the manifold to take longer than 1 hour and as such why the crazy cost.
Is the front manifold really a $300 part? Why can't the manifold be welded?
I was contemplating taking it to an exhaust shop to comment on the welding but didn't want them damaging something in the process.
Input appreciated.
also wondering what the part number for the Camry (same engine) and price was
Dealer quoted me $420 CAD + tax removal and replace (they say that this price is the discounted price, due to the extent of repairs I have had done at there dealership). Must they keep reminding me
I can't figure the removal and reinstall of the manifold to take longer than 1 hour and as such why the crazy cost.
Is the front manifold really a $300 part? Why can't the manifold be welded?
I was contemplating taking it to an exhaust shop to comment on the welding but didn't want them damaging something in the process.
Input appreciated.
MSRP is $207.50
$172.22 at Park Place Plano Lexus Parts (Texas)
$143.46 at Toyota of Dallas (Texas)
$143.46 at Lexus of Pembroke Pines (Florida)
$137.22 at Toyota of Hollywood (Florida)
I don't know the part number, but you can call or email any of them to figure that. You need to order online or you are paying MSRP ($207.50).
Exhaust Manifolds from 2002 Toyota Highlander 3.0 (not sure about Camry 3.0) will fit RX300. I would also replace the manifold gasket (~ $10-$20 at all dealers).
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