mang i give up...
03-10-07, 10:14 PM
#1
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mang i give up...
p1135 and p1155
i've replaced both a/f sensor with toyota oem sensor part # "toyota 89467-48011 denso 0200"...reset the code via my snapon obdii reader...unplugged battery...codes continue to come back...check the resistance of the sensor...within specs...harness looks good from wat i can see that is visible....
any other suggestion???
i've replaced both a/f sensor with toyota oem sensor part # "toyota 89467-48011 denso 0200"...reset the code via my snapon obdii reader...unplugged battery...codes continue to come back...check the resistance of the sensor...within specs...harness looks good from wat i can see that is visible....
any other suggestion???
03-10-07, 11:24 PM
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i found this from a guy by the alias alflash
so the planar version is used on the same oem part number 89467-48011??? it also mention the non planar version cna be identified by the shorten body...which part of the sensor is considered the body???
As I know, Toyota has use new "Planar" A/F Sensor*. A second generation it Sensor was developed to meet more stringent emission regulations. This A/F Sensor reaches operating temperature faster that the previous (aka Cup Element) A/F sensor. This allows the ECM to go into closed loop vuel control faster when the engine is cold reducing cold start emission.
Like previous O2 and AF Sensors, the planar AFS has ambient air on one side of the ZrO2 and exhaust gases on the other side.
The planar AFS has the same detecting range and signal characteristics as the previous cup element. But heater element has higher resistance! This AFS is not interchangeable with the older, cup element AFS. Heater Resistance (at 68 degr.F)=1.8-3.4 Ohm. The heater is imbedded into aluminum oxide. When the heater is ON, the aluminum oxide conducts heat directly to the zirconium dioxide layer bring the AFS to operating temperature quickly.
The heater monitor continuously detects over current or under current condition and set DTC in one trip. The never planar AFS can be identified by its shorted body (13 mm).
Like previous O2 and AF Sensors, the planar AFS has ambient air on one side of the ZrO2 and exhaust gases on the other side.
The planar AFS has the same detecting range and signal characteristics as the previous cup element. But heater element has higher resistance! This AFS is not interchangeable with the older, cup element AFS. Heater Resistance (at 68 degr.F)=1.8-3.4 Ohm. The heater is imbedded into aluminum oxide. When the heater is ON, the aluminum oxide conducts heat directly to the zirconium dioxide layer bring the AFS to operating temperature quickly.
The heater monitor continuously detects over current or under current condition and set DTC in one trip. The never planar AFS can be identified by its shorted body (13 mm).
03-11-07, 06:49 AM
#4
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I am also scratching my head a litte.
Only thing I can tell you is to take it to someone with an advanced OBDII scanner that can read the O2 sensor readings.
You should also pull of both battery cables, put them back on then take a drive.
I have had a few times (including recently) where I put in modifications, and not until I did that would the exhaust/intake/etc. modifications come to life.
Only thing I can tell you is to take it to someone with an advanced OBDII scanner that can read the O2 sensor readings.
You should also pull of both battery cables, put them back on then take a drive.
I have had a few times (including recently) where I put in modifications, and not until I did that would the exhaust/intake/etc. modifications come to life.
03-11-07, 09:01 AM
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alrighty...got some sleep...mind ish fresh...thought about things last nite and read alot of things...i had some #'s mixed up and can't remember wat resistance i've read exactly...i think i read 2.8 ohms...will double check today...
this is wat i did last nite b4 i got frustrated...
1. put ohm meter on beeping to check continuity between two black leads...
- new one beeped
- old one didn't
2. put ohm meter on resistance...
- new one read 2.8 ohms (i think...can't remember)...if so i have planar version??? with oem # 89467-48011....
- old one read infinite due to it being open...
3. removed negative cable overnite...
this is wat i did last nite b4 i got frustrated...
1. put ohm meter on beeping to check continuity between two black leads...
- new one beeped
- old one didn't
2. put ohm meter on resistance...
- new one read 2.8 ohms (i think...can't remember)...if so i have planar version??? with oem # 89467-48011....
- old one read infinite due to it being open...
3. removed negative cable overnite...
03-11-07, 10:27 AM
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alrighty...not as tired and not as frustrated...
looked closer at the sensor...it read 2.7-2.8 ohms...also looked at the stamped part number...89467-30010 while the one i took off the car was 89467-48011...imma email the ebay dood to see if he can send me the right ones...
looked closer at the sensor...it read 2.7-2.8 ohms...also looked at the stamped part number...89467-30010 while the one i took off the car was 89467-48011...imma email the ebay dood to see if he can send me the right ones...
03-11-07, 12:48 PM
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alrighty...another update...
i took a 1 ohm resister and stuck it in parallel with the two leads that i read resistance from...
the specs are at 20 degree c or 68 degree f i should get 0.8 to 1.4 ohms...and at 800 degree c or 1472 degree f i should get 1.8 to 3.2 ohms...
since the sensor read 2.7 to 2.8 ohms...i put a 1 ohm resistor in parallel...and if joo do the math...the reciprical of the sum of the recipricated...joo get 0.729729729729 ohm...which i will prob add another one ohm resister in series with the 1 ohm resister to get 1.148936 ohms to be in better tolerance...
anywho...i used only 1 ohm resister on one sensor...and ghetto rigged it to test...well the **** did joo knoe...the code for one of the sensor went off...
but imma still pursue the ebay guy...cuz i want the right one w/o having to rig it...
state inspection ish due...
i took a 1 ohm resister and stuck it in parallel with the two leads that i read resistance from...
the specs are at 20 degree c or 68 degree f i should get 0.8 to 1.4 ohms...and at 800 degree c or 1472 degree f i should get 1.8 to 3.2 ohms...
since the sensor read 2.7 to 2.8 ohms...i put a 1 ohm resistor in parallel...and if joo do the math...the reciprical of the sum of the recipricated...joo get 0.729729729729 ohm...which i will prob add another one ohm resister in series with the 1 ohm resister to get 1.148936 ohms to be in better tolerance...
anywho...i used only 1 ohm resister on one sensor...and ghetto rigged it to test...well the **** did joo knoe...the code for one of the sensor went off...
but imma still pursue the ebay guy...cuz i want the right one w/o having to rig it...
state inspection ish due...
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03-12-07, 05:03 AM
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I just changed my before the cat sensor and it's part # 89467-48011 not 89467-30010, that's a a/f sensor for IS250 not sure if it can be use for RX300 but it's not listed as the right part. Be very careful buying these parts from Ebay especially when they don't list the actual part #, the reason is then they are not responsible for wrong parts. I got mine for around $100 and they're selling it now for around $115+tax. Get the right part and install, unplug both battery cable for 30 mins, you should be good to go.
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