RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

what's the right oil weight for 60,000 miles

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Old 08-24-07, 04:21 PM
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hitthepin
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I read about the Auto-Rx in the other thread. I'm seriously considering it for our RX. I've been using Mobil 1 5w30 exclusively(almost) since 10,000miles. Reading the Auto-Rx application, it recommends using dino economy, but if synthetic is required, use a Group 3.

So question 1): Any repercussions putting dino oil during the cleaning phase and then going back to synthetic specifically for Rx300's? Its been discussed here that bouncing back and forth from dino to synthetic isn't always the best idea.

Question 2): Is it ok to use Auto-RX with a full syn. oil like Mobil 1 during the cleaning phase or will that cause problems?...and if so, why?

Question 3): Are there any problems a car will display and/or a certain mileage that makes it a good candidate for this cleaning process?

Thanks in advance.
Old 08-24-07, 05:28 PM
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edbro
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Originally Posted by hitthepin
1): Any repercussions putting dino oil during the cleaning phase and then going back to synthetic specifically for Rx300's? Its been discussed here that bouncing back and forth from dino to synthetic isn't always the best idea.

Question 2): Is it ok to use Auto-RX with a full syn. oil like Mobil 1 during the cleaning phase or will that cause problems?...and if so, why?

Question 3): Are there any problems a car will display and/or a certain mileage that makes it a good candidate for this cleaning process?
1. That's what I plan to do. I've also been using synthetic mostly up to now and thats what my seals are used to. I don't think the short time using dino will make that much of a difference.

2. No, it specifically says to use dino oil for both the treatment and cleansing phases.

3. Not that I know of other than these engines are prone to sludging. If you have been regularly changing your oil with synthetic oil then I seriously doubt if you would need it. That is the case with one of my cars. The other I bought used and am unsure of its complete history. I have two different cars with the same exact engine: a 2000 Toyota Avalon and a 99 RX300.
Old 08-24-07, 08:58 PM
  #18  
TunedRX300
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Originally Posted by hitthepin
I read about the Auto-Rx in the other thread. I'm seriously considering it for our RX. I've been using Mobil 1 5w30 exclusively(almost) since 10,000miles. Reading the Auto-Rx application, it recommends using dino economy, but if synthetic is required, use a Group 3.

So question 1): Any repercussions putting dino oil during the cleaning phase and then going back to synthetic specifically for Rx300's? Its been discussed here that bouncing back and forth from dino to synthetic isn't always the best idea.

Question 2): Is it ok to use Auto-RX with a full syn. oil like Mobil 1 during the cleaning phase or will that cause problems?...and if so, why?

Question 3): Are there any problems a car will display and/or a certain mileage that makes it a good candidate for this cleaning process?

Thanks in advance.
1) no
2) it is best with dino. Some synthetic oil has esters as additives, they may compete with esters in Auto-RX. If you don't want to waste your current fill, just start the treatment when it is time for oil change.
3) some have engine noise, poor mpg, or oil leak. The most direct way to verify is to pull the valve cover and do a visual check.
Even the synthetic oil, be very careful with oil change interval. I would not go beyond 6000 miles with Mobil 1 and 3000 miles with dino.
Old 08-24-07, 09:22 PM
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hitthepin
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Appreciate the feedback.

Last question: What type of dino oil would be best for the Auto-Rx treatment? Read some of the threads regarding oil preference and its a wide variety. Should I look for a specific brand and grade for this process? I'm in SoCal so I don't have to worry as much about drastic temperature swings if thats important at all.
Old 08-24-07, 09:34 PM
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TunedRX300
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cheapest possible, use 20 weight oil since it is a better flowing carrier.
You need a reasonably quality filter such as Napa Gold to store sludge if you have any. Let me know whether you need to cut filter open to exam the filter media after cleaning phase as I have a filter cutting tool.
Old 08-24-07, 10:16 PM
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hitthepin
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Thanks again Tuned. I'm going to take you up on your offer to cut the filter after I'm done with the cleaning phase. I just changed my oil so its going to be a couple of months till my next change.
Old 08-28-07, 12:21 AM
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TunedRX300
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Originally Posted by hitthepin
Well the cost really wouldn't bother me as I'm using a K&N filter now. I think the oversized is about 50cents more. No big deal there.

I'm far from an expert, but I've read good and bad about the FRAM's. How long have you been using the oversized FRAM in your RX and do you like it?
Here are the pictures of FRAM Extend Guard 3600, an oversized application for RX300. This is an excellent filter and a tons of fine sandy particles leaked out when I cut it open.

3600 is about 0.5" longer than 3614


3600 internals: silicon anti-drain back valve is just below the oil bypass valve


Synthetic filter media: I cut open the filter media (fuzzy part), there is a metal mesh support inside.
Old 08-28-07, 09:10 AM
  #23  
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Thanks for sharing those pic's. That filter looked like it did it's job. How many miles did you put on it and was it being used during the Auto-Rx process?

I looked at the FRAM's website for that filter to fit a 2002 RX300 and didn't see it. Is there a specific part number for that oversized filter?
Old 08-28-07, 11:07 AM
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TunedRX300
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I used this filter for 7000 miles, but this is the first regular oil change since my Auto-RX treatment. I used 2.5oz maintenace doze so the fine sludge that was not flushed out get more time to be deposited into the filter this time.

A lot of folks have used FRAM 3600 or equivalent part from other brands before me. All of them have good experiences, I double checked Napa Gold (which is a Wix filter) of bypass valve PSI and the thread size between regular RX300 size vs oversized, it turned out they are exactly the same. In short FRAM web site won't tell you since oversized application is not a OEM practice, just have to use a little cross reference to dig out key information and relevant experiences to make sure oversizing is a better approach.
Old 02-25-08, 06:52 PM
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TunedRX300
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Originally Posted by hitthepin
Thanks again Tuned. I'm going to take you up on your offer to cut the filter after I'm done with the cleaning phase. I just changed my oil so its going to be a couple of months till my next change.
Here are pictures I took of your filter cut open. You don't have much sludge particles.
There is only slight dirt buildup with couple pleats, this black seam is the worse one, others are clean

But I found a small shining metal piece, don't know where it came from
Old 02-25-08, 08:48 PM
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tcheung87
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TunedRX has posted some good analysis of the filters. I'm going on 110,000 miles and still running 0W-30 and 5W-30 weight Castrol Syntec.
Old 02-26-08, 06:18 AM
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lexus114
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Back to the oil discussion again,I have done some research on this over the years.Regarding switching to synthetic oil.I have learned as long as the engine is mechanically sound(basically not worn out)and you dont have leaking seals/gaskets,its perfectly fine to switch to synthetic oil.Example,before I obtained my rx,I had a cherry condition 87 Mercedes 300 E, Lovely automobile,except for one thing,it was horrible in snow.So I picked up a 1997 chevy Cavalier(for winter car)with 130,000 miles.Just for kicks(and as not to be botherd with so many oil changes)I switched to amsoil 5w-30 oil and filter.Well,that car was so quiet,peppier,and ran so much better all around, I almost couldnt believe it.Moral of my story is,That car had 130k on it,But the engine was sound,and it had no oil leaks either.So here again,food for thought.And amsoil is hard to beat.This is all in my opinion of course.(BTW)My Benz I mentioned earlier,did not like synthetic oil what so ever.Had to use 10w-40 in that car.But 20 years old,and different tolerances in the engine.(not as tight as todays motors re;tolerance)

Last edited by lexus114; 02-26-08 at 06:22 AM. Reason: edit
Old 02-26-08, 06:32 AM
  #28  
thomas1
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speaking of filters the toyota tundra filter is larger, but with the same mating surface, would this be a good candidate for a larger filter on our RX?
Old 02-26-08, 07:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by thomas1
speaking of filters the toyota tundra filter is larger, but with the same mating surface, would this be a good candidate for a larger filter on our RX?
I think it is uses the same size filter, even on the 4.7 L, http://www.knfilters.com/search/appl...x?Prod=HP-1002

The one I have been using is the HP-2009 (shown below), http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-2009

A lot of Tacoma owners having going to this same oversized filter.
Attached Thumbnails what's the right oil weight for 60,000 miles-img_2884.jpg  
Old 02-26-08, 09:21 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Here are pictures I took of your filter cut open. You don't have much sludge particles.
There is only slight dirt buildup with couple pleats, this black seam is the worse one, others are clean

But I found a small shining metal piece, don't know where it came from
Thanks for taking the time to cut open and post picks of my filter. I'm glad to see there isn't much sludge of any kind. I know I'm probably wasting a little money, but I haven't let my oil changes go past 3000miles ever since I started reading the info on this site.

I don't like seeing the little metal bit, but hopefully that was just a loose piece which came off from the filter housing or something like that.

I'm probably going to skip the maintenance dose of Auto-Rx and just do another treatment next year at some point.

I'm also going to start using the Castrol 0w-30. I'm really curious to know for myself whether the reports from some GC users about the engine running smoother.

Last edited by hitthepin; 02-26-08 at 09:27 AM.


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