carguy07

I know this has probably been beat to death here but things can change with time.

I have a 2001 RX with about 60K miles. I don't know if the trans fluid has been changed before, but it is due now. I called the dealer to see what they wanted to do a fluid/filter change. They said that they do not replace the filters. You can get a drain or a flush. Flush is $250 did not get the price for a drain.

What are your feelings on the flush? Can a flush get the crap out of the pan or is it just a fluid exchange? How much crap are you guys finding in the pan/filter?

If I diy the change myself how hard is it to get the pan gasket to seal the first time?

Thanks..KW

djspawn00

hard is a relative term here, but if you can follow the bolt pattern and torque specs to putting on a wheel then you should have no problem with the pan and gasket.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=220061

thomas1

I found the gasket is real easy to seal, done it 5 times and never had a leak.
The pan does build up some sludge. I would do a drain, replace filter, and refill. Than do two more drains only every 15k miles. That flush price is way off. The lexus dealership did mine for $150 when I was in Salt Lake City.

Lexmex

The Lexus dealer out in Naples, Florida did mine for about $125 about 4 years ago. I had silvery/pinkish fluid then and the vehicle shifted a lot better afterwards.

A Toyota dealer where my father went to pick a filter once told me they don't need to be change also, but it only took me one look at that paperish looking material to realize it needed to be changed.

I did the pan gasket in July with a new one and not hard at all, fit in like a charm.

Lexmex

This is what I found in my pan the last time I checked it out, and the tranny shop told me they found much the same the other day when they were cleaning my tranny. Just a little accumulation on the magnets.

carguy07

So you think it is ok to just do the fluid and not the filter? I know you service yours regularly so maybe yours is cleaner than average.

I have read on here that the original filter is a metal screen that may be better than the replacement paper one. I guess that may be why I'm a little hesitant to pull it out.

Couldn't I just drain/fill drive a mile. Come back drain/fill a few times and get the same thing as a flush?

Thanks

carguy07

Also, if I DIY have any of you used Mobil 1?

Lexmex

For Mobil 1 ATF, I knew someone with a Harrier who did this, but I never found out what was the long term story.

I'd still stick to Amsoil or Toyota Type-IV, though some of you who have you used Redline may want to chime in again.

On the answer to your other questions, you can do the drain and fill without changing the filter. I went a few years without doing that before I changed out the filter in July.

As far as the driving a mile, I recommend rather you drive for at least a week then drain it out. For me personally, over the course of 3 weeks, I perform 3 drain and fills to get out a majority of the fluid.

carguy07

Ok, last question I swear. Does the flush that they do back-flush the filter or just draw through it? If it back-flushed the metal filter that would be a nice way to "clean" it as long as it was still the original metal mesh kind.

Lexmex

Don't worry, ask as many questions as you like.

Take a look at this, http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

About as good a description as any regarding Toyota trannies and flushes.

Here's an underside look at the tranny pan and the filter.

thomas1

I personally would not depend on the flush cleaning the filter, Also the debris could work its way into the valve body, a big no no. The valve body has to be extremely clean or the little ***** and actuator pistons will bind. I would just change the filter and do a flush if that is what you want to do.

Mike

About your trans going out?

Thats all im reading about these rx300s, is the trans going.

Im at 76k, and worried.

is it less likely on 01 and later/
It seems 99 and 2000 are having majority of problems.

what can be doen to prevent it?

salimshah

I encourage readers to understand the scenario and then make their choice(s) or do what ever would make them most comfortable.

First there are problems reported with transmission but to term it as prevalent problem would not be fair till real numbers are posted. [For people who have had this problem and had to dish out $$$$ it is of no comfort, but just perusing the internet to come to the conclusion that there is endemic problem would not be fair]. On top of there is no evidence that the trans problems can be traced down to infrequent change of trans fluid change [fully maintained transmissions have failed too].

The only deterioration to the trans fluid happens due to debris, age and being subjected to temperature. [unlike engine oil, which absorbs chemicals from combustion]

Debris: Metal screen blocks larger ones and small can go through. The sediments can be drained off.

Age and temp: Proportion of the fluid gets replenished every time you do drain and fill.

Magnets: They grab on the floating metals (that can be magnetized). As long as they keep collecting, they are fine.

Lexus recommends drain an fill, and that supposed to take care of sedimentations, keeping the fluid fresh.

Improvements:
a) Different fluid (equal or better than Toyota type IV).
b) More frequent drain and fills.
c) Drop pans and clean magnets and get the lst few ounces of sediments.
d) Better filter [Paper like will block more but will need to be replaced .. choking the supply is worse than letting some particles to go through].
e) Flush [needs to be done in a way not to make things worse]


Salim