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Let me echo what ArtBuc says. The only KYB parts you want to buy are the struts themselves; bellows, insulators, and mounts need to be OEM, or the tubing suggested by LexMex for the insulators.
Originally Posted by artbuc
The KYB's do not come with any extras. You should replace the strut mounts. Do yourself a favor and buy factory strut mounts. I would also replace the front strut mount bearings. Again, go for factory bearings. You can probably reuse all rubber parts except for the bottom insulators which isolate the coils spring from the strut.
PS For some reason, the rear strut mount comes with a new rubber bellows to protect the strut making the rear strut mounts more expensive. My old bellows were in pretty good shape front and rear so I wasn't too happy about having to buy new rear bellows but what are ya going to do?
Originally Posted by gbreezer80
I have 110k miles on my '01 RX300 and need to replace all of the struts. Can someone please let me know ALL the parts needed, e.g., struts, bellows, mounts, etc. Or are these struts that come with all of the necessary parts? Thx
I read through almost the whole thread. It seems lot of folks have got their struts changed as a DIY job.
Please can someone help with the part number of items (bellows, mounts, etc ) that i would need to buy from Toyota/Lexus. I am planning to buy everyone myself and then get all my 4 struts replaced by an independent mechanic by paying only for labor. For that i really need to be sure that i don't mess up with any missing part. Part Numbers or web links will help. Also any recommendation where to get the KYB struts for the best price?
Thanks a lot to all the helpful folks on this forum
I read through almost the whole thread. It seems lot of folks have got their struts changed as a DIY job.
Please can someone help with the part number of items (bellows, mounts, etc ) that i would need to buy from Toyota/Lexus. I am planning to buy everyone myself and then get all my 4 struts replaced by an independent mechanic by paying only for labor. For that i really need to be sure that i don't mess up with any missing part. Part Numbers or web links will help. Also any recommendation where to get the KYB struts for the best price?
Thanks a lot to all the helpful folks on this forum
^^
Can always go to Lexus and ask part# then buy @ Toyota lol
Wondering the same thing;
Koni Struts
Clear-tubing insulators
OEM: Bellows, Bearings, Mounts is everything I need to bring to mechanic?
Thread is outdated,sorry, but does anyknow if these Koni struts fit? (Rx isn't in dropdown box) https://www.autoanything.com/suspens...A5577A0A0.aspx (I'd spraypaint them black)
^^
Can always go to Lexus and ask part# then buy @ Toyota lol
Wondering the same thing;
Koni Struts
Clear-tubing insulators
OEM: Bellows, Bearings, Mounts is everything I need to bring to mechanic?
Thread is outdated,sorry, but does anyknow if these Koni struts fit? (Rx isn't in dropdown box) https://www.autoanything.com/suspens...A5577A0A0.aspx (I'd spraypaint them black)
Koni doesnt have any strut applications for the RX, only IS. Even if they did fit, the damping rate would be all wrong for its bodyweight.
Oh I was gonna go KYB. Theyre the only ones on Ebay; but some ppl were saying it's last on their list.
Anyone know where I can get Bilstein struts??
I replaced mine 5 years ago and was kind of forced to go with KYB because other than Monroes, they were the only brand I could find. I searched for Bilstein as well with no luck. The KYB's have been fine. 60,000 miles and no issues. FYI.
A word of caution about using tubing on the springs in areas where salt is used on the roads… About six years ago I replaced the struts on my 2001 RX (with KYB) and I used plastic tubing on the spring as described in this thread. My daughter now drives it and recently complained of clunking from the rear end. I assumed it was sway bar related. But when I took a look I found that both rear coil springs were broken. And both were broken inside the tubing. Seems likely that winter road salt got trapped in the tubing and slowly ate the springs. This time I went with Monroe QuickStruts.
I didn't realize Monroe had quickstuts for this car. It's about time! Shameless plug, but I have an extra RR FCS quickstrut for sale for cheap if anyone is close to zip 44223. https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/p...611019416.html
This morning I installed a pair of new FCS quickstruts and Moog stabilizer links in the rear of a 2000 RX300 with 218475 miles. We had a couple of incidents where the left rear started banging whenever we hit even a small bump - it sounded like somebody hitting the underside of the car with a sledgehammer. Both times it went away after a dozen or so miles. The removed strut was very wet, and the bump stop is pretty tore up (bellows are rags so it's easy to see). I suspect the bump stop got jammed, causing the banging.
I took the interior panels off to get at the top nuts easier. This led to the only real problem I had - getting the 12v socket out of the left side rear interior panel. Jacked it up good, but looks like I can get a replacement for ~$10.
I was surprised how many rattles this job eliminated that I didn't think had anything to do with the struts. Big improvement in the ride, too! Should have done it a long time ago, may have to consider doing the front as well.
The quickstruts make this job an easy DIY, but you'll definitely need an impact wrench or in my case a breaker bar to get the camber nuts off. Oh, and a cheap go-thru socket set from HF made the stabilizer links 10x easier. I don't know how long the FCS will last, but if I have any problems with them I can rebuild the originals (with the help of a mechanic to remove & install the springs) and reinstall them. This is a daily driver and my only transport (unless you count the RV), so I can't take the time to take them apart and inspect, then wait for parts to put them back together.
This morning I installed a pair of new FCS quickstruts and Moog stabilizer links in the rear of a 2000 RX300 with 218475 miles. We had a couple of incidents where the left rear started banging whenever we hit even a small bump - it sounded like somebody hitting the underside of the car with a sledgehammer. Both times it went away after a dozen or so miles. The removed strut was very wet, and the bump stop is pretty tore up (bellows are rags so it's easy to see). I suspect the bump stop got jammed, causing the banging.
I took the interior panels off to get at the top nuts easier. This led to the only real problem I had - getting the 12v socket out of the left side rear interior panel. Jacked it up good, but looks like I can get a replacement for ~$10.
I was surprised how many rattles this job eliminated that I didn't think had anything to do with the struts. Big improvement in the ride, too! Should have done it a long time ago, may have to consider doing the front as well.
The quickstruts make this job an easy DIY, but you'll definitely need an impact wrench or in my case a breaker bar to get the camber nuts off. Oh, and a cheap go-thru socket set from HF made the stabilizer links 10x easier. I don't know how long the FCS will last, but if I have any problems with them I can rebuild the originals (with the help of a mechanic to remove & install the springs) and reinstall them. This is a daily driver and my only transport (unless you count the RV), so I can't take the time to take them apart and inspect, then wait for parts to put them back together.
Thanks!
Owen
Bad bumpstop:
Thanks for the post about these struts. I am planning on getting these same exact struts and moog end links. It wil be a little while before I can afford them, but I think im ok for now, but mine are probably gonna need changed soon. At 155,000 miles right now. Please give us an update after a while I would love to know how they hold up! And if you get the front also. Thanks again!
One year and 13,800 miles later. Still happy with the rear FCS quickstruts, but have not done the front end yet*. Car is getting very noisy, don't know if the rear struts are wearing out already or if the front end is just getting worse & worse.
I had a clicking problem a couple months ago that seemed to be steering related. My mechanic eventually diagnosed it as worn rear swaybar bushings. So I guess I should have replaced those at the same time as I replaced the links.
*Unrepairable sunroof cables have got me down, not sure I want to sink any more money into the suspension at this point.
My 2000 RX300 is AWD. I used FCS 2331590R and FCS 2331590L rear struts and MOOG K90714 rear sway bar links. As noted above the shop replaced the rear sway bar bushings, probably with OEM but I don't have that info handy.
245,000 miles now. I replaced the front sway bar links and bushings at about 241K*, and for about a week my suspension was blissfully quiet. Then everything started going to hell again. Now it sounds like I'm driving a can full of nickels, constant rattles and pops and clunks and thunks. But as far as I can tell the rear struts are still holding fine.
*MOOG K90312 & K90311 front sway bar links and MOOG K201401 front sway bar bushings.
** FYI in 2020 I also replaced both 02 sensors, front brake pads & rotors, belts, tires, and spark plugs, and repaired the left front window switch.
Your clunking may possibly be from the MOOG sway bar bushings and rear end links. I had MOOG K90714 rear end links and those things didn't even last one Canadian winter before they seized up, total outsourced garbage and not a real MOOG product. I got some "Problem Solver" (That's their proper brand) K750098 end links that are designed for the front of a Nissan but share the same dimensions. These guys are HEAVY DUTY and are still working great with no visible rust at all 2 winters so far.
My MOOG sway bar bushings didn't even fit my sway bar properly, they were so tight around it and bulged like crazy. Turns out they were a mm too small when I measured and by the time I went into check they were in terrible shape, all worn out and cracked. More outsourced garbage as it is not part of their "Problem Solvers" line. I would only recommend Moog bushings that are made in a Ramcoa factory (US made) these were made in India and had a very cheap plastic smell. Got tired of it and I was swapping out my front sway bar anyway to a bigger one, which came with some low mileage OEM bushings anyway, problem solved.
Well, that is exactly what we did for the other 3 springs as well.
Each individual spring needs at least 22 inches (yes, I am not kidding you, it does not look that long, when you wind it around it is) to get to the point shown in the preceding photograph.
The width of the hose is about 2 cm or .75 inches. The rear springs can use a slightly smaller width, but I recommend using the same width as the ones up front. Note, I am slightly squeezing the hoses in the last 2 pictures.
This type of hose can be found at Home Depot, though in downtown Cuajimalpa where we are at, such colored hose is abundant at small hardware stores.
Good morning. So instead of the lower insulator, you just use thick rubber hose? Wondering how it would work in Canada in -30 weather.
07-21-15, 06:00 PM
