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maxSteel:
You nailed it - although the tone ring looks good, it is loose, very loose, and I can use my little finger get in there and turn it. How was the tone ring fixed on the drive shaft in the manufacturing?
How to go about replacing the tone ring?
I think they were pressed on. With the years and the rust they break free. There is probably a crack in it somewhere too. I think the more modern approach is to embed the reluctor with the bearing.
At one time there were no low price options for an AWD rear half shaft. Dealer ones were very expensive, so replacing the ring seemed like the only economical approach.
There are some threads where people have tried buying just the ring and replacing it. I don't think they have been successful at getting it to adhere.
I see on Rockauto they now list a rear half shaft for $67. There are two parts listed, SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE TO8348 and TO8367. The difference looks like the inner side attachment, either a 4 hole flange or a spline. Mine has the 4 hole flange. If that's what you have, you can pull the axle without removing the hub. Unfortunately since this is the right rear the exhaust is in the way.
Thank you maxSteel, for insights and advice. It is snowing in upstate NY so I will wait til the weekend to get a look at the RR drive axle and assess what I can do.
Finally it is warm enough on the driveway to get under the car to get a peek. It looks that the RR drive axle is a bolt-on type at the inner side.
As maxSteel mentioned, the exhaust pipe is right under the axle. So, is there a way to remove this axle without loose and turn the wheel hub/brake assembly?
The tone ring replacement part came today:
Looks like they need to be "compressed" on to the axle. They came in a kit on rockauto.com for about $23 including shipping. I am still considering to order a replacement RR axle on rockauto.com as maxSteel suggested - now that I know what type it is - and use this tone ring kit to repair the broken one as a backup for the left side - both axle looked the same.
I meant to ask if there is enough gap/space (on top of the exhaust pipe) to lower the axle and shift the axle towards the center so to take off the drive axle?
The RR drive axle replacement came during the week. It looks nice:
A close shot of the tone ring:
Then, check the tone ring replacement parts that came in a week earlier and figure out each piece's packing order:
Now getting ready to spray liquid wrench on the nuts and bolts and waiting for a good weather day - it has been giving rain shower today. Still, uncertain about if there is enough clearance to remove the axle since the exhaust pipe is blocking the axle going downwards.
Remember to loosen the eye on the long shaft mid support.
Make sure you do not stretch the CV part as it will come apart.
Do install new snap rings and seals on the transmission side.
Remember to loosen the eye on the long shaft mid support.
Make sure you do not stretch the CV part as it will come apart.
Do install new snap rings and seals on the transmission side.
Salim
Salim:
My ignorance - I am clueless about the first line of your note. Please enlighten me.
Thank you for sharing insights - I have ordered the inner and outer seals on RockAuto (they did not come with the replacement axle).
I looked over the replacement axle and don't see a place where a snap ring would go or fit. Where does a snap ring go in this case?
At the transmission (or rear differential rather?) side the axle uses a 4-bolt hook up connection.
Finally got some sunshine on driveway and a bit warmer - consider it had a a couple of inch snow just 2 days ago. Unfortunately to discover that I don't have a wrench socket large enough for the center nut on the drive axle (on the wheel side). The largest I have is a 1" and a 28mm sockets. Does any body know the required socket size?
The inner and outer seals that I ordered on RockAuto came during the week. The inner seal:
The outer seal:
Now, my trouble is the inner seal fits where an outer seal goes and the outer seal's ID is a bit smaller and doesn't fit the outer end of the axle.
(Left is the inner seal and the right - RED - is the outer seal.) The inner end of the axle must use a different kind of seal.
What kind of seal that I must look for for this inner end of the axle? I am waiting for a 30mm socket and the weather to give me a break - we just had a 2-inch snow fall last night.
PS (April 26th): Well the 30mm socket came in during the week; due to my ignorance it is the "short" socket (see the following photo). My order for a deep socket set will be here in another 2 days. It has been snow showering and raining anyways, cannot do anything about it.
Any inputs on a seal for the inner end of the axle with a 4-hole flange? I am waiting for a good weather day to remove the axle; I guess by then I will know what's on it - I am hoping to get all parts ready so to do this replacement in one take.
Weather is good and I have the time this weekend to continue this DIY. While I am removing the exhaust pipe section (between the end muffler and the Cat) for repair, and also for giving room to remove the axle. What I am facing is the following:
The axle has more than an inch extended out beyond the lock nut on the wheel side. Also, the 4 bolts on the flange side seemed fixed on the opposite plate on rear gearbox side. If the 4-bolt flange end can be pulled away and towards the wheel wall direction and get loose from the 4 bolts, I can then remove the axle. However, I am not sure if there is enough room for this tactic. From the replacement axle part I don't see any movable space at the flange end.
Please advise on an easiest way to do this rear-right drive axle removal.
I never had the need to do the rear shaft as I had FWD.
Based on my experience with other Lexus ... Mark the coupling [so that on reassembly you match the marks ... oh well you are replacing the shaft!].
The Axle has flex and the shaft can be pushed in and extended. Once the coupling is removed, you have to push the flange towards the wheel (shorten the length) almost 3/4 of an inch. If you let the wheel hang, the shaft is stretched and should allow you to compress it more. Use rope or bungee cord to hold the shaft (once disassembled from the pumpkin). Freeing it from the wheel bearing may take some effort. Since you are going to discard the shaft, you can be bit careless with the threads, but any deformity will give you grief as the shaft will not come out of the bearing hole. [Buy a new nut and use a heavy blow hammer on the loosened old nut]. Keep loosing it as the shaft starts moving.
Salim
PS; Once the shaft is out, do not lower the wheel (bearing should not support the weight of the vehicle with the shaft removed from the middle). Remember to torque everything with the wheels on ground.
Last edited by salimshah; 06-06-20 at 03:37 PM.
Reason: PS
Salimshah: Thanks for the insights - they moved up my self-confidence on this DIY. I am almost on removing the 4 coupling bolts of the axle. Will report back.
I thought that I made the post last night, but don't see it today when I checked in looking for advice. Anyways, here is my request.
I need to turn the RR axle a bit in order to get one of the 4 nuts on the flange side of the axle - that nut is in the top position and hard to get my hands and tools to it. I have the RR wheel raised and the gear shift in the N, with no brake. My understanding is that, this is an AWD car and with the set up mentioned, it would be easy to turn the RR wheel/axle freely (as I was working on this on my driveway). But it doesn't want to turn with my hands.
Do I need to raise the RL side as well (hence for a second stand)? What do I miss?
03-22-20, 12:29 PM
