TampRX300

It's not an Oxygen sensor, it's an Air/Fuel Sensor, they cost around $150 on Ebay or $206. from Toyota.
Part number 89467-48011

code58

Don't know if you guys that have had to deal with the frozen sensors have tried this or not but in the many years (too many-lol) that I spent in the automotive field the one thing that seized or rusty parts yield to is HEAT. The most rusted and seized bolt is no march for the heat of a torch (acetelyne) . Sometimes you have to heat them to a dull red and be quick with the wrench, even reheating if they are really seized and cool some before you get it all the way off. But in all my years have NEVER had one that would not yield or broke off on me. Not even the really stubborn ones. It's important to concentrate your heat on outside item that is doing the holding. In the case of a nut, on the nut, not the bolt, so as to expand the threads and in the case of the sensor, on the manifold threads to expand them out away from the sensor. If it comes out hard and begins to seize before your all the way, reheat. It DOES work! Hope this helps. Y/T- Roger

bhootautta

Thanks LexMex and TampRX300.
I was wondering if someone could tell me which two pins are for checking heater resistance (in following pic)
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../fe80417-1.jpg

I checked the resistance of two silver terminals and it was in mega-ohms..so if those two pins are for heater..AF sensor is surely dead.

Thanks in advance.
Peace

bhootautta

Never mind ..I figured it out. It was two silver terminals (pin #1 , pin #2 ..obvious from wiring diagram from toyota manual).

Thanks

TunedRX300

I just had the front A/F sensor failed, this time I had to replace it since CEL code showed up p1150, p1155, and p1153.

Tried to wrenched it off after soaking with PB Blaster all night, ended up paying muffler shop $50 to remove the cross-threaded sensor off. Not bad since they also re-thread the bung to install the new A/F sensor.

Now I am keeping a close eye on the oxygen sensor after the catalytic convertor. Anyone had one failed yet?

k.capone

I to have the same codes, and going to have to replace the A/F snesor. Along with P1150 & P1155 I also have codes P1153 and P0171. Will the new sensor clear all codes? Need some help.

k.capone

is it better to replace both sensors. It's a 2000 RX300 with 51,000 miles. Or I might just have bad gas air mix? don't want to waste money$

TunedRX300

You need a OBD II Tool to clear the code, can get a loaner at Autozone.
Replace the bad one is fine, if you are worried about the other one, buy a spare one ahead of the time.

JAB

I'm confused. LexMex says above (posts #2 and #5) that code 1155 is Bank 2 Sensor 1, but the CodeKey for my OBDII reader claims that for the Lexus, 1155 is "A/F Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1.)" So which is it, Bank 1 or Bank 2? And which bank is closest to the firewall and which is closest to the radiator? TIA.

JAB

Check out this post:

http://www.letstalksnow.com/forums/s...d.php?p=244481

It appears that I am not alone in my confusion . . .

Lexmex

Bank 2 Sensor 1, I had to go to the service manual just to make sure my eyes weren't deceiving me.

JAB

So, LexMex, is the A/F that is throwing the 1155 code the one mounted on the exhaust manifold closest to the radiator?

Flyfast

Hello Lexmex,

This is my second round with this problem. I have confirmed it's the P1155 code again at Autozone. I have had this sensor replaced once already. My question is can I continue to drive the car for now. I have a planned trip, about 1600 miles, starting this Sunday. Any problems? My car is a 2001 RX300 with 84000 miles. Thanks.

Flyfast

Lexmex

Yes, P1155 is the one closest to the radiator.

Welcome to the Club flyfast.

You can drive the car for now, the only thing you may see is a decrease in MPG. The vehicle's computer will use a preset ratio for the time being until the problem is corrected.

Flyfast

Thanks for the info!