P1150 And P1155 - Help With Codes
#16
Part number 89467-48011
#17
frozen sensor
Don't know if you guys that have had to deal with the frozen sensors have tried this or not but in the many years (too many-lol) that I spent in the automotive field the one thing that seized or rusty parts yield to is HEAT. The most rusted and seized bolt is no march for the heat of a torch (acetelyne) . Sometimes you have to heat them to a dull red and be quick with the wrench, even reheating if they are really seized and cool some before you get it all the way off. But in all my years have NEVER had one that would not yield or broke off on me. Not even the really stubborn ones. It's important to concentrate your heat on outside item that is doing the holding. In the case of a nut, on the nut, not the bolt, so as to expand the threads and in the case of the sensor, on the manifold threads to expand them out away from the sensor. If it comes out hard and begins to seize before your all the way, reheat. It DOES work! Hope this helps. Y/T- Roger
#18
Thx. Which two pins are heater?
I was wondering if someone could tell me which two pins are for checking heater resistance (in following pic)
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../fe80417-1.jpg
I checked the resistance of two silver terminals and it was in mega-ohms..so if those two pins are for heater..AF sensor is surely dead.
Thanks in advance.
Peace
#19
Figured it out.
Thanks LexMex and TampRX300.
I was wondering if someone could tell me which two pins are for checking heater resistance (in following pic)
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../fe80417-1.jpg
I checked the resistance of two silver terminals and it was in mega-ohms..so if those two pins are for heater..AF sensor is surely dead.
Thanks in advance.
Peace
I was wondering if someone could tell me which two pins are for checking heater resistance (in following pic)
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../fe80417-1.jpg
I checked the resistance of two silver terminals and it was in mega-ohms..so if those two pins are for heater..AF sensor is surely dead.
Thanks in advance.
Peace
Thanks
#20
Tried to wrenched it off after soaking with PB Blaster all night, ended up paying muffler shop $50 to remove the cross-threaded sensor off. Not bad since they also re-thread the bung to install the new A/F sensor.
Now I am keeping a close eye on the oxygen sensor after the catalytic convertor. Anyone had one failed yet?
#24
I'm confused. LexMex says above (posts #2 and #5) that code 1155 is Bank 2 Sensor 1, but the CodeKey for my OBDII reader claims that for the Lexus, 1155 is "A/F Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1.)" So which is it, Bank 1 or Bank 2? And which bank is closest to the firewall and which is closest to the radiator? TIA.
Last edited by JAB; 10-23-09 at 04:13 AM. Reason: typo
#25
Check out this post:
http://www.letstalksnow.com/forums/s...d.php?p=244481
It appears that I am not alone in my confusion . . .
http://www.letstalksnow.com/forums/s...d.php?p=244481
It appears that I am not alone in my confusion . . .
#28
This is my second round with this problem. I have confirmed it's the P1155 code again at Autozone. I have had this sensor replaced once already. My question is can I continue to drive the car for now. I have a planned trip, about 1600 miles, starting this Sunday. Any problems? My car is a 2001 RX300 with 84000 miles. Thanks.
Flyfast
#29
Yes, P1155 is the one closest to the radiator.
Welcome to the Club flyfast.
You can drive the car for now, the only thing you may see is a decrease in MPG. The vehicle's computer will use a preset ratio for the time being until the problem is corrected.
Welcome to the Club flyfast.
You can drive the car for now, the only thing you may see is a decrease in MPG. The vehicle's computer will use a preset ratio for the time being until the problem is corrected.
#30
Thanks for the info!