120,000 mile "service"
#1
120,000 mile "service"
Well, I guess it's time to dig deep into my wallet for this one:
Engine oil/filter
Transmission oil change
Transfer case oil change
Differential oil change
Brake flush
Coolant flush
Replace plugs
Replace timing belt
(Did I miss anything?)
Couple of questions:
I'm getting this done at an independent (the dealer want's over $2500 for this, the independent wants under $1000) - are there any unique issues they may not know about:
1. Is there any difference between the procedure for a LSD compared to a regular differential?
2. Which plugs - he suggested platinum but I believe the 99 RX300 uses iridium - NGK? Denso? Which model (the online stores are not consistent with part numbers).
Anything else?
Thanks
Engine oil/filter
Transmission oil change
Transfer case oil change
Differential oil change
Brake flush
Coolant flush
Replace plugs
Replace timing belt
(Did I miss anything?)
Couple of questions:
I'm getting this done at an independent (the dealer want's over $2500 for this, the independent wants under $1000) - are there any unique issues they may not know about:
1. Is there any difference between the procedure for a LSD compared to a regular differential?
2. Which plugs - he suggested platinum but I believe the 99 RX300 uses iridium - NGK? Denso? Which model (the online stores are not consistent with part numbers).
Anything else?
Thanks
#2
I don't have the 100% specific list for 120K in front of me, but timing belt is normally a 90K thing, but it can certainly last to 120K as there are some little odds and end about checking bushings, mounts, etc.
I'd add power steering fluid, too.
1. Just dump the gear fluid and add the new stuff in for the transfer case and rear differential. Key thing is to use a good synthetic gear oil like Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is the gear oil you will usually see at most auto parts stores. You need one bottle of the stuff for the front and another bottle for the rear. The transfer case and rear differential take .9L each. I wouldn't go with just any gear oil.
2. With the plugs, Denso IK20 is the model you want (actually quite a common plug for the Toyota/Lexus line).
Some of those jobs you really could do yourself, but with the independent and all that (especially for the timing belt), $1000 USD ain't too bad for U.S. prices.
I'd add power steering fluid, too.
1. Just dump the gear fluid and add the new stuff in for the transfer case and rear differential. Key thing is to use a good synthetic gear oil like Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is the gear oil you will usually see at most auto parts stores. You need one bottle of the stuff for the front and another bottle for the rear. The transfer case and rear differential take .9L each. I wouldn't go with just any gear oil.
2. With the plugs, Denso IK20 is the model you want (actually quite a common plug for the Toyota/Lexus line).
Some of those jobs you really could do yourself, but with the independent and all that (especially for the timing belt), $1000 USD ain't too bad for U.S. prices.
#3
I vote for doing the spark plugs yourself. If you've done it on other vehicles, you can do it on your RX. Just use the helpful hints on this forum, block out an afternoon to do it, and use lots of patience. The transfer case and diff oil, oil and filter, and brake fluid are pretty simple, also. This kind of stuff is fun for me every so often. (Well, the rear spark plugs weren't very fun....) I don't do my own coolant anymore for environmental reasons. I'm able to take the brake fluid and oil in for recycling. I'm not as brave or as skilled as Lexmex and others to do my own timing belt!
#4
I vote for doing the spark plugs yourself. If you've done it on other vehicles, you can do it on your RX. Just use the helpful hints on this forum, block out an afternoon to do it, and use lots of patience. The transfer case and diff oil, oil and filter, and brake fluid are pretty simple, also. This kind of stuff is fun for me every so often. (Well, the rear spark plugs weren't very fun....) I don't do my own coolant anymore for environmental reasons. I'm able to take the brake fluid and oil in for recycling. I'm not as brave or as skilled as Lexmex and others to do my own timing belt!
#5
Thanks for the advice. I see another post by Saraiks along the same lines as mine - "Good Deal : Replaced timing belt+ for $666?" How important is it to replace the camshaft seals if they show no signs of leaking? Also, what about the timimg belt idler and tensioner - do these go out routinely and should these be replaced? Finally, if the water pump shows no sign of leaking or other wear, should I leave it alone?
#6
Thanks for the advice. I see another post by Saraiks along the same lines as mine - "Good Deal : Replaced timing belt+ for $666?" How important is it to replace the camshaft seals if they show no signs of leaking? Also, what about the timimg belt idler and tensioner - do these go out routinely and should these be replaced? Finally, if the water pump shows no sign of leaking or other wear, should I leave it alone?
Neither the timing belt nor water pump, nor any of its components really have an issue at all on this engine class. I have known of 1MZFE Camrys (like mid to late 90s) running sometimes into a leak on the water pump, but after talking to a few heads of service at Toyota dealers down here, they haven't seen any issues with the 1MZFE in the Camrys (sold here since April 2002 when Toyota opened its doors).
For me, when I change out the timing belt, I change out the water pump, simply because it is easier to get at.
If you plan on keeping your RX for a while longer, like say more than 3 years, I would change out the water pump.
#7
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#9
definitely do the water pump. the labor isn't much more and it will be cheaper in the long run if the original were to start leaking. you'd end up pyaing for almost the whole job again to just change the wp.
#10
Update:
The local indie guy did the work today. Called me when he had the timing belt off to say the waterpump, tensioners and cam seals looked great and recommended not changing them at this time. He also recommended not changing the transmission fluid as he'd flushed the system 15,000 miles ago and said that it would be a waste of money. Did everything else but there's no mention of thge transfer case fluid change - just the F and R diffs - doesn't look like he did that. I'll confirm tomorrow but do I need to get the transfer case oil changed also, if he omitted that?
Bottom line:
Engine oil/filter (synthetic)
Front differential oil change (synthetic)
Rear differential oil change (synthetic)
Brake flush
Coolant flush
Replace plugs, PCV Air filter
Replace timing belt and aux belts
$950 (including loaner car, presumably his, for the day!)
The local indie guy did the work today. Called me when he had the timing belt off to say the waterpump, tensioners and cam seals looked great and recommended not changing them at this time. He also recommended not changing the transmission fluid as he'd flushed the system 15,000 miles ago and said that it would be a waste of money. Did everything else but there's no mention of thge transfer case fluid change - just the F and R diffs - doesn't look like he did that. I'll confirm tomorrow but do I need to get the transfer case oil changed also, if he omitted that?
Bottom line:
Engine oil/filter (synthetic)
Front differential oil change (synthetic)
Rear differential oil change (synthetic)
Brake flush
Coolant flush
Replace plugs, PCV Air filter
Replace timing belt and aux belts
$950 (including loaner car, presumably his, for the day!)
#11
Uh, let me give a recommendation, do get the tranny fluid changed out. You might be able to go longer, but 15K is what I see as the limit of that Toyota (actually is a Mobil) transmission fluid. Beyond that, you might be okay, but the risk is there.
#12
Changed mine today, just the drain and fill, and I noticed on the dipstick it says something like, 'This Transmission fluid does not require changing'. What gives? Mine was almost black.
#13
Well, I seem to recall the owner's manual says to check the color of the fluid every 30,000 miles, and replace the fluid when the color changes. Most Lexus dealers don't follow these recommendations, and recommend a drain and refill schedule much like the consensus on this forum. You need to do a few more drain-and-refills over the next few months/weeks to achieve a more complete replacement of the fluid.
#14
Does anyone have the list of recommended service items to be performed at the 90k?
There seem to be a lot of different things to do and I would like to have that info when looking for an independent show to perform them.
I just got a 2000 RX for my wife (105K) and there's no evidence of the 90K being done. All service was performed until the 75K at the dealer but I don't want to pay the + $2000 I was quoted from the Lexus dealer for this service. OUCH!
You guys are posting some MUCH better prices by seemingly qualified mechanics!
Hopefully I'll be as fortunate.
There seem to be a lot of different things to do and I would like to have that info when looking for an independent show to perform them.
I just got a 2000 RX for my wife (105K) and there's no evidence of the 90K being done. All service was performed until the 75K at the dealer but I don't want to pay the + $2000 I was quoted from the Lexus dealer for this service. OUCH!
You guys are posting some MUCH better prices by seemingly qualified mechanics!
Hopefully I'll be as fortunate.
#15
I don't have the 100% specific list for 120K in front of me, but timing belt is normally a 90K thing, but it can certainly last to 120K as there are some little odds and end about checking bushings, mounts, etc.
I'd add power steering fluid, too.
1. Just dump the gear fluid and add the new stuff in for the transfer case and rear differential. Key thing is to use a good synthetic gear oil like Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is the gear oil you will usually see at most auto parts stores. You need one bottle of the stuff for the front and another bottle for the rear. The transfer case and rear differential take .9L each. I wouldn't go with just any gear oil.
2. With the plugs, Denso IK20 is the model you want (actually quite a common plug for the Toyota/Lexus line).
Some of those jobs you really could do yourself, but with the independent and all that (especially for the timing belt), $1000 USD ain't too bad for U.S. prices.
I'd add power steering fluid, too.
1. Just dump the gear fluid and add the new stuff in for the transfer case and rear differential. Key thing is to use a good synthetic gear oil like Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is the gear oil you will usually see at most auto parts stores. You need one bottle of the stuff for the front and another bottle for the rear. The transfer case and rear differential take .9L each. I wouldn't go with just any gear oil.
2. With the plugs, Denso IK20 is the model you want (actually quite a common plug for the Toyota/Lexus line).
Some of those jobs you really could do yourself, but with the independent and all that (especially for the timing belt), $1000 USD ain't too bad for U.S. prices.
Last edited by archangels; 05-26-08 at 01:32 AM.