Aftermarket air intake filter system? folks who have one please enter....
05-29-08 | 06:49 PM
#46
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,250
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From: Miami, Florida
Hypervoltage you will feel when you step down on the pedal. Red Top 34/78 ran me about $150. Mine has been running 3.5 years. Yes, moving bolt far left will open it as wide open as possible. Cranking amps are your main consideration first followed by weight on the battery.
One other source of sound can be the vibration of the resonator.
One other source of sound can be the vibration of the resonator.
05-29-08 | 11:07 PM
#47
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
ram air hole
Hypervoltage you will feel when you step down on the pedal. Red Top 34/78 ran me about $150. Mine has been running 3.5 years. Yes, moving bolt far left will open it as wide open as possible. Cranking amps are your main consideration first followed by weight on the battery.
One other source of sound can be the vibration of the resonator.
One other source of sound can be the vibration of the resonator.
Last edited by archangels; 05-30-08 at 08:50 AM.
05-30-08 | 07:06 AM
#50
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,250
Likes: 169
From: Miami, Florida
I do like how you got the bracket on to the battery mount (I actually did to the mount of the brake fluid handle).
Not sure if it is possible with this material, but with the one on the front bumper, if you could squeeze it into an oval you could manage to get some more airflow by extending (from left to right) more of the length of the bumper hole. I actually use a double tube entry on mine (as oppposed to single) as I found much more air gets rammed in under this system (you don't want this unless you want P0171 errors staring at you, and I always have some pending P0171 error every time I hook up at the end of the week).
Up top in the engine bay, I would try to get something like a pot or some kind of piece of plastic to block off the filter on the sides facing the engine. I could have sworn I have seen someone do this with this exact filter setup, but it escapes me would did it, but it was a custom setup.
The other thing I would do is try to turn, if possible, rotate filter pipe toward the side of the car, so that the back of the filter faces more the front of the vehicle and the piping could be straighter. Still kind of ticks me that Weapon-R started to make these turned in pipes rather than the one I have from my WR intake (and I have made my comments known on this subject to no avail). One guy who got this kit in Mexico actually did some chopping up of the pipe to get it to be straighter for his Maxima. Another way that I see that could be done on this setup is greasing the pipe from the MAF sensor downward and pushing the filter further up the pipe toward the MAF sensor. The idea behind this is so that you don't need to use as much of the baffle piping to the front bumper and with the metal tube pushed further inward to the filter, it will serve as a quasi-shield against the warmer engine air (you need some air this high up or the engine can choke). Also, with the piping so far inward to the filter, the ram air from down low will not have to fly around as much inside the filter, but will travel fewer inches toward the mouth of the entry pipe. Only downside is that you probably would need to get a different bracket for between the battery mount and the filter.
I would get the Braille over the Optima, because you can not only get the Amps necessary but also the weight is much less, Optima weighs in the 30 pound range, like 38 or so. However, price can be a bit higher for the Braille. When my Optima goes on the fritz (or I just feel like it), I will step up to the Braille.
Not sure if it is possible with this material, but with the one on the front bumper, if you could squeeze it into an oval you could manage to get some more airflow by extending (from left to right) more of the length of the bumper hole. I actually use a double tube entry on mine (as oppposed to single) as I found much more air gets rammed in under this system (you don't want this unless you want P0171 errors staring at you, and I always have some pending P0171 error every time I hook up at the end of the week).
Up top in the engine bay, I would try to get something like a pot or some kind of piece of plastic to block off the filter on the sides facing the engine. I could have sworn I have seen someone do this with this exact filter setup, but it escapes me would did it, but it was a custom setup.
The other thing I would do is try to turn, if possible, rotate filter pipe toward the side of the car, so that the back of the filter faces more the front of the vehicle and the piping could be straighter. Still kind of ticks me that Weapon-R started to make these turned in pipes rather than the one I have from my WR intake (and I have made my comments known on this subject to no avail). One guy who got this kit in Mexico actually did some chopping up of the pipe to get it to be straighter for his Maxima. Another way that I see that could be done on this setup is greasing the pipe from the MAF sensor downward and pushing the filter further up the pipe toward the MAF sensor. The idea behind this is so that you don't need to use as much of the baffle piping to the front bumper and with the metal tube pushed further inward to the filter, it will serve as a quasi-shield against the warmer engine air (you need some air this high up or the engine can choke). Also, with the piping so far inward to the filter, the ram air from down low will not have to fly around as much inside the filter, but will travel fewer inches toward the mouth of the entry pipe. Only downside is that you probably would need to get a different bracket for between the battery mount and the filter.
I would get the Braille over the Optima, because you can not only get the Amps necessary but also the weight is much less, Optima weighs in the 30 pound range, like 38 or so. However, price can be a bit higher for the Braille. When my Optima goes on the fritz (or I just feel like it), I will step up to the Braille.
05-30-08 | 08:36 AM
#51
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
I do like how you got the bracket on to the battery mount (I actually did to the mount of the brake fluid handle).
Not sure if it is possible with this material, but with the one on the front bumper, if you could squeeze it into an oval you could manage to get some more airflow by extending (from left to right) more of the length of the bumper hole. I actually use a double tube entry on mine (as oppposed to single) as I found much more air gets rammed in under this system (you don't want this unless you want P0171 errors staring at you, and I always have some pending P0171 error every time I hook up at the end of the week).
Up top in the engine bay, I would try to get something like a pot or some kind of piece of plastic to block off the filter on the sides facing the engine. I could have sworn I have seen someone do this with this exact filter setup, but it escapes me would did it, but it was a custom setup.
The other thing I would do is try to turn, if possible, rotate filter pipe toward the side of the car, so that the back of the filter faces more the front of the vehicle and the piping could be straighter. Still kind of ticks me that Weapon-R started to make these turned in pipes rather than the one I have from my WR intake (and I have made my comments known on this subject to no avail). One guy who got this kit in Mexico actually did some chopping up of the pipe to get it to be straighter for his Maxima. Another way that I see that could be done on this setup is greasing the pipe from the MAF sensor downward and pushing the filter further up the pipe toward the MAF sensor. The idea behind this is so that you don't need to use as much of the baffle piping to the front bumper and with the metal tube pushed further inward to the filter, it will serve as a quasi-shield against the warmer engine air (you need some air this high up or the engine can choke). Also, with the piping so far inward to the filter, the ram air from down low will not have to fly around as much inside the filter, but will travel fewer inches toward the mouth of the entry pipe. Only downside is that you probably would need to get a different bracket for between the battery mount and the filter.
I would get the Braille over the Optima, because you can not only get the Amps necessary but also the weight is much less, Optima weighs in the 30 pound range, like 38 or so. However, price can be a bit higher for the Braille. When my Optima goes on the fritz (or I just feel like it), I will step up to the Braille.
Not sure if it is possible with this material, but with the one on the front bumper, if you could squeeze it into an oval you could manage to get some more airflow by extending (from left to right) more of the length of the bumper hole. I actually use a double tube entry on mine (as oppposed to single) as I found much more air gets rammed in under this system (you don't want this unless you want P0171 errors staring at you, and I always have some pending P0171 error every time I hook up at the end of the week).
Up top in the engine bay, I would try to get something like a pot or some kind of piece of plastic to block off the filter on the sides facing the engine. I could have sworn I have seen someone do this with this exact filter setup, but it escapes me would did it, but it was a custom setup.
The other thing I would do is try to turn, if possible, rotate filter pipe toward the side of the car, so that the back of the filter faces more the front of the vehicle and the piping could be straighter. Still kind of ticks me that Weapon-R started to make these turned in pipes rather than the one I have from my WR intake (and I have made my comments known on this subject to no avail). One guy who got this kit in Mexico actually did some chopping up of the pipe to get it to be straighter for his Maxima. Another way that I see that could be done on this setup is greasing the pipe from the MAF sensor downward and pushing the filter further up the pipe toward the MAF sensor. The idea behind this is so that you don't need to use as much of the baffle piping to the front bumper and with the metal tube pushed further inward to the filter, it will serve as a quasi-shield against the warmer engine air (you need some air this high up or the engine can choke). Also, with the piping so far inward to the filter, the ram air from down low will not have to fly around as much inside the filter, but will travel fewer inches toward the mouth of the entry pipe. Only downside is that you probably would need to get a different bracket for between the battery mount and the filter.
I would get the Braille over the Optima, because you can not only get the Amps necessary but also the weight is much less, Optima weighs in the 30 pound range, like 38 or so. However, price can be a bit higher for the Braille. When my Optima goes on the fritz (or I just feel like it), I will step up to the Braille.
05-30-08 | 09:21 AM
#52
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,250
Likes: 169
From: Miami, Florida
Incidentally, I am actually doing intake work this weekend. Right now, I am ramming in way too much. Another issue, and I have my suspicions, is that ever since the stations started doing 10% ethanol a few weeks back here, I have gotten a P0505 pending error related to idle. I discussed this with a mechanic at a shop here where I did my ATF changeout a few weeks back and he has also seen some of these same issues with people coming and talking to other mechanics. I plan to run some sensor cleaner in the IACV hole to see if it clears up.
My only other air issues is a high idle RPM in D of 1000. Part of this is related to my exhaust being as direct as it is (since it is very unique), but if I can make the air intake a bit more indirect, it will be better for daily driving. Will post pictures if I can get this to work, even though it will be quite simple.
My only other air issues is a high idle RPM in D of 1000. Part of this is related to my exhaust being as direct as it is (since it is very unique), but if I can make the air intake a bit more indirect, it will be better for daily driving. Will post pictures if I can get this to work, even though it will be quite simple.
05-30-08 | 11:13 AM
#53
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
Incidentally, I am actually doing intake work this weekend. Right now, I am ramming in way too much. Another issue, and I have my suspicions, is that ever since the stations started doing 10% ethanol a few weeks back here, I have gotten a P0505 pending error related to idle. I discussed this with a mechanic at a shop here where I did my ATF changeout a few weeks back and he has also seen some of these same issues with people coming and talking to other mechanics. I plan to run some sensor cleaner in the IACV hole to see if it clears up.
My only other air issues is a high idle RPM in D of 1000. Part of this is related to my exhaust being as direct as it is (since it is very unique), but if I can make the air intake a bit more indirect, it will be better for daily driving. Will post pictures if I can get this to work, even though it will be quite simple.
My only other air issues is a high idle RPM in D of 1000. Part of this is related to my exhaust being as direct as it is (since it is very unique), but if I can make the air intake a bit more indirect, it will be better for daily driving. Will post pictures if I can get this to work, even though it will be quite simple.
06-01-08 | 12:42 AM
#55
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
i will post updated pics sunday....
i tried to reposition the filter better was not enough room either ram air had no room or maf connector would not reach long enough... i brought the filter close to the air circular tubing,
also i did what you told me on throttle position for response i have pics ... did i do it correctly? now i barly touch my fot on the pedal and it gets going , thats what bothered me before the lag in the begining when i push the pedal down, i barely touch the pedal and moves forward i was pretty amazed maybe it will climb hills better do to open throttle more what you think... thanks see pics if i did correctly. looks like screw moved to left about5-7mm?
i tried to reposition the filter better was not enough room either ram air had no room or maf connector would not reach long enough... i brought the filter close to the air circular tubing, also i did what you told me on throttle position for response i have pics ... did i do it correctly? now i barly touch my fot on the pedal and it gets going , thats what bothered me before the lag in the begining when i push the pedal down, i barely touch the pedal and moves forward i was pretty amazed maybe it will climb hills better do to open throttle more what you think... thanks see pics if i did correctly. looks like screw moved to left about5-7mm?
Last edited by archangels; 06-01-08 at 01:37 PM. Reason: added pics of throttle position
06-01-08 | 03:57 PM
#56
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
heat shield?
i will post updated pics sunday.... i tried to reposition the filter better was not enough room either ram air had no room or maf connector would not reach long enough... i brought the filter close to the air circular tubing,
also i did what you told me on throttle position for response i have pics ... did i do it correctly? now i barly touch my fot on the pedal and it gets going , thats what bothered me before the lag in the begining when i push the pedal down, i barely touch the pedal and moves forward i was pretty amazed maybe it will climb hills better do to open throttle more what you think... thanks see pics if i did correctly. looks like screw moved to left about5-7mm?
i tried to reposition the filter better was not enough room either ram air had no room or maf connector would not reach long enough... i brought the filter close to the air circular tubing, also i did what you told me on throttle position for response i have pics ... did i do it correctly? now i barly touch my fot on the pedal and it gets going , thats what bothered me before the lag in the begining when i push the pedal down, i barely touch the pedal and moves forward i was pretty amazed maybe it will climb hills better do to open throttle more what you think... thanks see pics if i did correctly. looks like screw moved to left about5-7mm?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AIR-F...spagenameZWDVW
06-01-08 | 08:10 PM
#58
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
lex so you think this is the one i should buy as a heat shield to deflect engine heat and sucks good amount of cooler air.. might buy it you think its better then the dragon airfilter heat shield there plastic version? thanks buddy thanks lex i bought one today i will post pics once installed thanks buddy
Last edited by archangels; 06-01-08 at 09:08 PM.
06-02-08 | 07:08 AM
#59
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,250
Likes: 169
From: Miami, Florida
I know those cold air shields, but I have a problem with them. If the only air you are going to take is from the front bumper, then that is too great a length from the air entry to the engine and there can be some idle issues. This issue becomes much more pronounced as you got up in elevation. Having the metal shield let's the engine have a closer source (ableit a bit warmer) source of air to alleviate this issue. This is why all my intake designs have both an air source in the engine bay and on the bumper (basically a short ram (engine bay) and cai (bumper hole). But you won't have this if you apply the cold air shield. A lot of those cold air shield designs are for vehicles that take air from the firewall just on the side of the car (kind of like where the air resonator used to be). I used to see such intake designs a lot on Neons back in Mexico.
06-02-08 | 12:29 PM
#60
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: california
I know those cold air shields, but I have a problem with them. If the only air you are going to take is from the front bumper, then that is too great a length from the air entry to the engine and there can be some idle issues. This issue becomes much more pronounced as you got up in elevation. Having the metal shield let's the engine have a closer source (ableit a bit warmer) source of air to alleviate this issue. This is why all my intake designs have both an air source in the engine bay and on the bumper (basically a short ram (engine bay) and cai (bumper hole). But you won't have this if you apply the cold air shield. A lot of those cold air shield designs are for vehicles that take air from the firewall just on the side of the car (kind of like where the air resonator used to be). I used to see such intake designs a lot on Neons back in Mexico.