are these oem sparkplugs?
05-30-08, 10:52 PM
#1
Lead Lap
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are these oem sparkplugs?
i was wondering if these are for our rx300? are these oem or oem better? i was thinking about the torque master sparkplugs, lex or any one else whats best sparkplug to add , the owners manuel reads a different part number or does anyone know where to buy oem spark plugs cheaper then dealership thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-I...8685QQtcZphoto
also i was looking at ltuned site said torque master sparkplugs have been proven to last 11 years 243,000 miles without being changed or maintained? this is what they wrote:Torque Master spark plugs will outlast all other spark plugs, even the best platinum design. The reason is because of our patented stainless steel tip design which requires no gap setting whatsoever and the ceramic insulator itself is used as a spark path -- this is called 'surface conductance'. This surface conductance prevents formation of any fouling substance to accumulate on the ceramic insulator. This patented feature permits the spark plug to operate at top efficiency throughout its life -- which have proven to be as much as 11 years and 243,000 miles without service or maintenance of any kind (Sandy Howard and his Ford station wagon)..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-I...8685QQtcZphoto
also i was looking at ltuned site said torque master sparkplugs have been proven to last 11 years 243,000 miles without being changed or maintained? this is what they wrote:Torque Master spark plugs will outlast all other spark plugs, even the best platinum design. The reason is because of our patented stainless steel tip design which requires no gap setting whatsoever and the ceramic insulator itself is used as a spark path -- this is called 'surface conductance'. This surface conductance prevents formation of any fouling substance to accumulate on the ceramic insulator. This patented feature permits the spark plug to operate at top efficiency throughout its life -- which have proven to be as much as 11 years and 243,000 miles without service or maintenance of any kind (Sandy Howard and his Ford station wagon)..
Last edited by archangels; 05-30-08 at 11:28 PM.
05-31-08, 01:04 AM
#2
Out of Warranty
More moose milk. Exotic plugs seem to be the holy grail of the home mechanic. If you use the factory spec plug you may not make that extra 50 horsepower some sellers promise from their "patented" design, but you'll probably get a good compromise between longevity, performance, and efficiency. As far as wild claims of "life" are concerned, don't be too impressed. A modern electronic capacitive-discharge ignition system will throw SOME kind of an arc across the gap, no matter how wide, how burned the electrodes, or how badly damaged the plug might be.
Drawing courtesy off-road.com
Your best bet is to buy a reliable plug of the proper heat range for your engine and application. Plugs with a longer heat transfer path will run "hot" and eventually have a limited life, while plugs that a bit "colder" may foul, produce carbon deposits that won't clear, and not deliver full performance. When in doubt, the factory spec plugs are the best for all-round applications.
Photo courtesy NGK
"Surface gap" or "surface discharge" plugs are not new - I ran them in several large 2-cycle Chrysler outboard motors in the '70's and they performed well, particularly when electronic ignition systems were in their infancy and performance was spotty at best. Because they oil fouled easily, you had to remove the plugs after 25-30 hours of operation, put them in a vise, and wire brush the "electrode" to clean them of deposits that left a carbon trail across the flat of the ceramic insulator on the face of the plug, effectively shorting it to ground. To me, their great advantage was that they could be returned to new condition in a few seconds, and although you had to swap them often, you NEVER wore one out.
In these applications, particularly when there long were periods of idling or low speed operation, standard plugs would foul badly in only a few hours. At least the surface gap plugs lasted a bit longer and were quickly and easily restored to prime condition. The solution was to carry a couple of spare sets so you could make a full swap in about two minutes. That could be critical in a strong current or heavy sea. I trained like a NASCAR pit crewman.
Drawing courtesy off-road.com
Your best bet is to buy a reliable plug of the proper heat range for your engine and application. Plugs with a longer heat transfer path will run "hot" and eventually have a limited life, while plugs that a bit "colder" may foul, produce carbon deposits that won't clear, and not deliver full performance. When in doubt, the factory spec plugs are the best for all-round applications.
Photo courtesy NGK
"Surface gap" or "surface discharge" plugs are not new - I ran them in several large 2-cycle Chrysler outboard motors in the '70's and they performed well, particularly when electronic ignition systems were in their infancy and performance was spotty at best. Because they oil fouled easily, you had to remove the plugs after 25-30 hours of operation, put them in a vise, and wire brush the "electrode" to clean them of deposits that left a carbon trail across the flat of the ceramic insulator on the face of the plug, effectively shorting it to ground. To me, their great advantage was that they could be returned to new condition in a few seconds, and although you had to swap them often, you NEVER wore one out.
In these applications, particularly when there long were periods of idling or low speed operation, standard plugs would foul badly in only a few hours. At least the surface gap plugs lasted a bit longer and were quickly and easily restored to prime condition. The solution was to carry a couple of spare sets so you could make a full swap in about two minutes. That could be critical in a strong current or heavy sea. I trained like a NASCAR pit crewman.
Last edited by Lil4X; 05-31-08 at 08:57 AM.
05-31-08, 10:09 AM
#3
Lead Lap
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More moose milk. Exotic plugs seem to be the holy grail of the home mechanic. If you use the factory spec plug you may not make that extra 50 horsepower some sellers promise from their "patented" design, but you'll probably get a good compromise between longevity, performance, and efficiency. As far as wild claims of "life" are concerned, don't be too impressed. A modern electronic capacitive-discharge ignition system will throw SOME kind of an arc across the gap, no matter how wide, how burned the electrodes, or how badly damaged the plug might be.
Drawing courtesy off-road.com
Your best bet is to buy a reliable plug of the proper heat range for your engine and application. Plugs with a longer heat transfer path will run "hot" and eventually have a limited life, while plugs that a bit "colder" may foul, produce carbon deposits that won't clear, and not deliver full performance. When in doubt, the factory spec plugs are the best for all-round applications.
Photo courtesy NGK
"Surface gap" or "surface discharge" plugs are not new - I ran them in several large 2-cycle Chrysler outboard motors in the '70's and they performed well, particularly when electronic ignition systems were in their infancy and performance was spotty at best. Because they oil fouled easily, you had to remove the plugs after 25-30 hours of operation, put them in a vise, and wire brush the "electrode" to clean them of deposits that left a carbon trail across the flat of the ceramic insulator on the face of the plug, effectively shorting it to ground. To me, their great advantage was that they could be returned to new condition in a few seconds, and although you had to swap them often, you NEVER wore one out.
In these applications, particularly when there long were periods of idling or low speed operation, standard plugs would foul badly in only a few hours. At least the surface gap plugs lasted a bit longer and were quickly and easily restored to prime condition. The solution was to carry a couple of spare sets so you could make a full swap in about two minutes. That could be critical in a strong current or heavy sea. I trained like a NASCAR pit crewman.
Drawing courtesy off-road.com
Your best bet is to buy a reliable plug of the proper heat range for your engine and application. Plugs with a longer heat transfer path will run "hot" and eventually have a limited life, while plugs that a bit "colder" may foul, produce carbon deposits that won't clear, and not deliver full performance. When in doubt, the factory spec plugs are the best for all-round applications.
Photo courtesy NGK
"Surface gap" or "surface discharge" plugs are not new - I ran them in several large 2-cycle Chrysler outboard motors in the '70's and they performed well, particularly when electronic ignition systems were in their infancy and performance was spotty at best. Because they oil fouled easily, you had to remove the plugs after 25-30 hours of operation, put them in a vise, and wire brush the "electrode" to clean them of deposits that left a carbon trail across the flat of the ceramic insulator on the face of the plug, effectively shorting it to ground. To me, their great advantage was that they could be returned to new condition in a few seconds, and although you had to swap them often, you NEVER wore one out.
In these applications, particularly when there long were periods of idling or low speed operation, standard plugs would foul badly in only a few hours. At least the surface gap plugs lasted a bit longer and were quickly and easily restored to prime condition. The solution was to carry a couple of spare sets so you could make a full swap in about two minutes. That could be critical in a strong current or heavy sea. I trained like a NASCAR pit crewman.
05-31-08, 01:40 PM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
As far as the ebay link you provided, it's for for NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs. IX is a performance series plug from NGK that will work fine in the RX. The thing to remember is that it is a 30,000 mile plug not the 120,000 mile NGK IFR6A11 or Denso SK20R11 that comes in the RX and is recommended in the owners manual.
From the Denso website: "many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications" The Denso Iridium Power Plug is the equivalent of the NGK IX plug.
Being that it is such a pain to change the RX plugs, I would use nothing but the NGKs or Densos recommended in the owner’s manual. The NGKs should be next to impossible to find being that NGK obseleted the IFR6A11 with no direct replacement. My RX came with the Densos and they looked new when I pulled them at 125K. I replaced them with the same.
As far as 4 electrode plugs and surface fire plugs, they are nothing new. JC Whitney was pushing them 40 years ago and the claims were pretty much the same then as they are today. Buyer beware.
From the Denso website: "many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications" The Denso Iridium Power Plug is the equivalent of the NGK IX plug.
Being that it is such a pain to change the RX plugs, I would use nothing but the NGKs or Densos recommended in the owner’s manual. The NGKs should be next to impossible to find being that NGK obseleted the IFR6A11 with no direct replacement. My RX came with the Densos and they looked new when I pulled them at 125K. I replaced them with the same.
As far as 4 electrode plugs and surface fire plugs, they are nothing new. JC Whitney was pushing them 40 years ago and the claims were pretty much the same then as they are today. Buyer beware.
Last edited by mikey00; 05-31-08 at 01:43 PM.
05-31-08, 05:27 PM
#5
Super Moderator
Archangels, listen closely to what my colleague Lil4x is telling you.
Only reason I began to use Torquemasters was where I was living south of the border and that I was modifying. When my RX was stock, I really didn't notice a difference, but with exhaust and air intake modifications, my little RX definitely had some benefit (could feel it in the throttle response...and the OEM plugs were only a year old (had them replaced). Moreover, don't assume that magically because you had a bit of exhaust work and some intake work that magically the plugs will work.
It takes some GOOD exhaust and GOOD intake work to properly make these plugs go, that's what I discovered.
What I am thinking of doing is trying the Pulstar plugs with my RX300 in the near future (especially if gas continues to rise). Right now, I have a friend running these plugs in his Z06 and already is getting about 30 more miles per tank on average after a few weeks of testing. However, just putting these plugs in and expecting a magical cure is not the way to go.
There is no harm in keeping your current plugs a bit longer.
Only reason I began to use Torquemasters was where I was living south of the border and that I was modifying. When my RX was stock, I really didn't notice a difference, but with exhaust and air intake modifications, my little RX definitely had some benefit (could feel it in the throttle response...and the OEM plugs were only a year old (had them replaced). Moreover, don't assume that magically because you had a bit of exhaust work and some intake work that magically the plugs will work.
It takes some GOOD exhaust and GOOD intake work to properly make these plugs go, that's what I discovered.
What I am thinking of doing is trying the Pulstar plugs with my RX300 in the near future (especially if gas continues to rise). Right now, I have a friend running these plugs in his Z06 and already is getting about 30 more miles per tank on average after a few weeks of testing. However, just putting these plugs in and expecting a magical cure is not the way to go.
There is no harm in keeping your current plugs a bit longer.
05-31-08, 11:17 PM
#6
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120,000 mile NGK IFR6A11 or Denso SK20R11 i did nt know these could go 120,000 miles i thought folks were just kidding i guess it turned out your right.... yes especially changing spark plugs in rx can be a pain so id like that 120,000 mile sparkplug service and wouldn't have to worry about it for awhile... thanks buddy for advise...lex how long should i wait to change out plugs as good friend above post said 125,000 miles sparkplug looks new, thats amazing, also i took my daughter on a family trip today lots of hills for some reason it felt like i was getting more climb and mph with factory box, when i would push some throttle i hear intake roar love the sound but what bothered me was i think before i would push same amount of throttle on oem airbox mph climbs faster, the wr intake seemed to take awhile to climb, my battery before i bought rx was recently changed out thats why i figured i would wait and buy a hyper or something, i need that acceleration.... by he way that reminds me i will move that throttle screw tomorrow and reposition filter... thanks buddy, you have a friend or etc interested in my mustang let me know buddy... with gas prices up and everything getting expensive having an rx and mach1 can be a challenge especially it was tough to save for rx maintenence, 
As far as the ebay link you provided, it's for for NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs. IX is a performance series plug from NGK that will work fine in the RX. The thing to remember is that it is a 30,000 mile plug not the 120,000 mile NGK IFR6A11 or Denso SK20R11 that comes in the RX and is recommended in the owners manual.
From the Denso website: "many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications" The Denso Iridium Power Plug is the equivalent of the NGK IX plug.
Being that it is such a pain to change the RX plugs, I would use nothing but the NGKs or Densos recommended in the owner’s manual. The NGKs should be next to impossible to find being that NGK obseleted the IFR6A11 with no direct replacement. My RX came with the Densos and they looked new when I pulled them at 125K. I replaced them with the same.
As far as 4 electrode plugs and surface fire plugs, they are nothing new. JC Whitney was pushing them 40 years ago and the claims were pretty much the same then as they are today. Buyer beware.
From the Denso website: "many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications" The Denso Iridium Power Plug is the equivalent of the NGK IX plug.
Being that it is such a pain to change the RX plugs, I would use nothing but the NGKs or Densos recommended in the owner’s manual. The NGKs should be next to impossible to find being that NGK obseleted the IFR6A11 with no direct replacement. My RX came with the Densos and they looked new when I pulled them at 125K. I replaced them with the same.
As far as 4 electrode plugs and surface fire plugs, they are nothing new. JC Whitney was pushing them 40 years ago and the claims were pretty much the same then as they are today. Buyer beware.
Last edited by archangels; 06-01-08 at 09:05 AM.
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