p1150 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 Seized
#1
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p1150 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 Seized
Hey Guys,
So I replaced my B1S1 sensor behind the engine this past March. Hardest part was actually getting to it - so I figured B2S1 would be a cinch since its easily accessible. So I get home from work yesterday and get right to work while everything is hot. After banging on it a few times with my O2 sensor socket and breaker bar, I got it like 2 threads of the way out. Now it wont budge. I have tried turning the engine back on to heat things up, nothing. I have Liquid Wrenched it death - even left it overnight, nothing. Without resorting to a torch, any other suggestions on getting this thing out without having to remove the manifold?
So I replaced my B1S1 sensor behind the engine this past March. Hardest part was actually getting to it - so I figured B2S1 would be a cinch since its easily accessible. So I get home from work yesterday and get right to work while everything is hot. After banging on it a few times with my O2 sensor socket and breaker bar, I got it like 2 threads of the way out. Now it wont budge. I have tried turning the engine back on to heat things up, nothing. I have Liquid Wrenched it death - even left it overnight, nothing. Without resorting to a torch, any other suggestions on getting this thing out without having to remove the manifold?
#3
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Yeah I could re-tighten with no probs. Anyway, I brought it the shop this morning and they torched it out. Now they're waiting for the manifold to cool down to see of they can thread the new sensor in. If they got the other one out, why wouldn't they be able to get the new one in?
#4
Lexus Champion
Possibly worpage or something from the heat.You should be okay though,can`t they use anti-seize when reinstalling the sensor? or does that interfere with the function of the sensor? I know that sound`s corny,but some times it does.I ran into that before on GM car`s
Last edited by lexus114; 07-30-08 at 07:04 AM. Reason: added
#5
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So they ended up using the torch to get it out. In doing so, they ruined the threads on the bung and had to re-tap them. $160 for everything, I supplied the sensor.
#6
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Old trick with tight/stuck threads. Always undo a bit and the re-tighten half or 3/4. Do it all the way to end. The short term objective is to get the thing separated but at the end you have to install it back [new one in case of a replacement]. The above process keeps/cleans the threads.
Salim
Salim
#7
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Yeah I agree with your method, Salim. My patience was running thin last night. After getting the first two threads out, I swear without exaggeration it took me 2 hours to get the sensor to move 1/16 of a rotation.
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