Stripped Oil Drain Pan
#16
Moderator
Here is my Lexus experience on my son's SC4. We bought it used and the trans drain plug had a leak.
I tried to undo it and it kept spining (thread were stripped).
So then I took the pan off.
I tried knocking the bolt off by using a brass bar and a hammer and could not get it out for the longest time. Finally wedged a screwdriver and slowly pulled the bolt off.
The threads on the pan were stripped. The threads on the bolt were not all the way to the head .. gap for a washer.
Since the pan was off, I just tapped new threads to match a mm size replacement bolt from PepBoys.
Back to the original bolt and the question about using the bolt without the crush washer. It is a bad idea ... my theory is that the washer is needed to keep the threads engaged fully with the pan threads .. other wise the bolt penetrates more and you get portion of the bolt not properly engaged.
Usually when the threads strip, there is enough metal to re-form threads using the old bolt. But once the threads are ruined, you need to be very careful in not cross threading it. Best is to to take the pan off and cut oversized threads. Just buy a bigger dia bolt and make sure the new one does not extend too far.
Salim
I tried to undo it and it kept spining (thread were stripped).
So then I took the pan off.
I tried knocking the bolt off by using a brass bar and a hammer and could not get it out for the longest time. Finally wedged a screwdriver and slowly pulled the bolt off.
The threads on the pan were stripped. The threads on the bolt were not all the way to the head .. gap for a washer.
Since the pan was off, I just tapped new threads to match a mm size replacement bolt from PepBoys.
Back to the original bolt and the question about using the bolt without the crush washer. It is a bad idea ... my theory is that the washer is needed to keep the threads engaged fully with the pan threads .. other wise the bolt penetrates more and you get portion of the bolt not properly engaged.
Usually when the threads strip, there is enough metal to re-form threads using the old bolt. But once the threads are ruined, you need to be very careful in not cross threading it. Best is to to take the pan off and cut oversized threads. Just buy a bigger dia bolt and make sure the new one does not extend too far.
Salim
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
Argh...the headches of a simple task gone wrong. I'm actually really considering getting a new pan (I'm already getting minor oil seep build-up alongside the edges of the oil pan). Besides purchasing a oil pan and oil pan gasket, is there anything else I'm missing? I think I'm just going to grab a oil pan and oil pan gasket off RockAuto and have myself a busy Sunday afternoon.
#18
Moderator
This time get the right equipment ready...
Scraper (make sure you do not gouge the facing with the corner)
FIPG or Gasket {fipg is glue like self forming gasket** must be applied as a unbroken bead.
Mini Torque wrench.
Trick ,, leave the corner bolts partly threaded in .. this will help holding the pan when the seal separates .. be patient as it may take some time.
Since I have not taken the oil pan off the RX ... I dont know what would interfere (some times the cross members etc make it hard to remove and install ... a factor that plays a part if you use FIPG (15 min or less) )
Salim
Scraper (make sure you do not gouge the facing with the corner)
FIPG or Gasket {fipg is glue like self forming gasket** must be applied as a unbroken bead.
Mini Torque wrench.
Trick ,, leave the corner bolts partly threaded in .. this will help holding the pan when the seal separates .. be patient as it may take some time.
Since I have not taken the oil pan off the RX ... I dont know what would interfere (some times the cross members etc make it hard to remove and install ... a factor that plays a part if you use FIPG (15 min or less) )
Salim
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