Wants to change engine main seal & bushings for transfer case
#1
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I am thinking to change all the bushings for tranfer case, engine main seal and timing belt & water pump. I know that i have to drop down the engine & transmisson to do all this thing. Does anyone did this job before ?
Any ideas. Any suggestions ? Should i change any other bushings or seals with this like front differential, rear main seal or transmisson converter or any other parts ?
I am looking for your inputs.
Thanks all
Last edited by gazi001; 11-06-08 at 03:43 AM.
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I am thinking to change all the bushings for tranfer case, engine main seal and timing belt & water pump. I know that i have to drop down the engine & transmisson to do all this thing. Does anyone did this job before ?
Any ideas. Any suggestions ? Should i change any other bushings or seals with this like front differential, rear main seal or transmisson converter , flex pipe (where it located) or any other parts ?
I am looking for your inputs.
Thanks all
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It would help me a bunch to help you if possible to see some photos of the affected areas. My uncle has changed out the transfer case seals and his buddy changed out the seals on the front differential on my transmission. There is a special service tool that can help with this, SST 09325-00010. The front differential seals we did because we had the transmission open and the seals from my recollection weren't that expensive at all, something like $6 USD by my recollection, but the transfer case was a definite leaker.
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It appears that the transfer case might be just an issue related to the passenger side and that would only require removing the axle to get at that seal. See picture below.
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With that oil leak further to the right between the junction of the engine and transmission, if it were me, I'd be inclined to change out the oil and switch to a heavier one, at least a W40, say like a Castrol Syntec 5W40 or even a Pennzoil Platinum 5W40. If it were summer time in NY, I might say try a W50.
The other thing I'd STRONGLY consider adding to the heavier oil is something I've talked about before and used, Lubro Moly Engine Oil Saver. I know in NY they have have Napa Auto Parts stores. I walked into a Napa down here and they had the stuff. This stuff literally works like rubber cement (but much stronger) on bad piston rings but has the side effect of also being able to help other seals it comes across. http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p.../usa_2020.html
There is also Auto-RX, http://www.auto-rx.com/ but again if it were me what I suggested above is what I'd do first.
This photo below shows the side facing the engine by this seal. My uncle and I examined it when we did the transmission work last year but found no issue at that time.
The other thing I'd STRONGLY consider adding to the heavier oil is something I've talked about before and used, Lubro Moly Engine Oil Saver. I know in NY they have have Napa Auto Parts stores. I walked into a Napa down here and they had the stuff. This stuff literally works like rubber cement (but much stronger) on bad piston rings but has the side effect of also being able to help other seals it comes across. http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p.../usa_2020.html
There is also Auto-RX, http://www.auto-rx.com/ but again if it were me what I suggested above is what I'd do first.
This photo below shows the side facing the engine by this seal. My uncle and I examined it when we did the transmission work last year but found no issue at that time.
Last edited by Lexmex; 11-15-08 at 07:18 PM.
#9
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Thanks Lexmex. I will try to change the oil grades to castrol synthetic 5w40 and put lubro moly motor oil saver. Currently i used mobil synthetic 5w30. Is it ok to change the synthetic mobil oil to castrol oil ?
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With that oil leak further to the right between the junction of the engine and transmission, if it were me, I'd be inclined to change out the oil and switch to a heavier one, at least a W40, say like a Castrol Syntec 5W40 or even a Pennzoil Platinum 5W40. If it were summer time in NY, I might say try a W50.
The other thing I'd STRONGLY consider adding to the heavier oil is something I've talked about before and used, Lubro Moly Engine Oil Saver. I know in NY they have have Napa Auto Parts stores. I walked into a Napa down here and they had the stuff. This stuff literally works like rubber cement (but much stronger) on bad piston rings but has the side effect of also being able to help other seals it comes across.
There is also Auto-RX, but again if it were me what I suggested above is what I'd do first.
This photo below shows the side facing the engine by this seal. My uncle and I examined it when we did the transmission work last year but found no issue at that time.
The other thing I'd STRONGLY consider adding to the heavier oil is something I've talked about before and used, Lubro Moly Engine Oil Saver. I know in NY they have have Napa Auto Parts stores. I walked into a Napa down here and they had the stuff. This stuff literally works like rubber cement (but much stronger) on bad piston rings but has the side effect of also being able to help other seals it comes across.
There is also Auto-RX, but again if it were me what I suggested above is what I'd do first.
This photo below shows the side facing the engine by this seal. My uncle and I examined it when we did the transmission work last year but found no issue at that time.
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I think main point should always be to examine it.
Below is another shot.
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My reason for not recommending Mobil 1 is that I had consumption issues the 30 and even 40 weight after a while. I fondly remember having to use additives with them. With their W50 oils, those worked fine, but gas mileage was a PITA.
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Hey Lexmex,
Sorry if I'm hijacking (still newbie)...Any particular reason for the Syntec 5W 40 recommendation? I noticed you like and others really like the 0W-30 Euro formula. Other than weight are there any other differences? I've been using the 0W my '01 (104K) and like it a lot.
Sorry if I'm hijacking (still newbie)...Any particular reason for the Syntec 5W 40 recommendation? I noticed you like and others really like the 0W-30 Euro formula. Other than weight are there any other differences? I've been using the 0W my '01 (104K) and like it a lot.