salimshah

Start by identifying the two drain bolts ... both require a hex key. When you open them the fluid is NOT under pressure, so it will drain out like any other oil change that you have done.

Please look through other posts to identify which 2 drain bolts (you will need the hex key) and also amount of fluid you need to add. You will need a long thin funnel to fill. Checking the level after the fill is a pain, so knowing how much you will need to fill is the way to go.

On your last change remember to use a new gasket to prevent leaks and use a torque wrench every time.

If you have replaced the engine oil and changes the oil filter, the drain and fill of transmission is lot easier. You are over thinking it.



Salim

Mut

Lexmex, how has the welding held up so far and what kind of welding was done on it?

Was MIG welding done on it as code58 recommended?

Lexmex

Wasn't a MIG welder, though I don't discount that would work for that kind of crack. In my place, an arc welder was used with some welding material, kind of a metal filler, that was used to seal it. It's held up quite good, no issues.

code58

Lexmex- I know it's your car and you should know what was used on it but I've done a LOT of welding in my life (all kinds) and that sure doesn't look like arc welding. Arc welding normally has more splatter than that has because it's so much hotter and not shielded. That looks like a mig with a little too large of wire or CO2 only for gas rather than Argon/CO2. A mig with the correct size wire (normally .021 or .023 with 75% Argon/25% CO2) and run in a stitch fashion will put a beautiful weld on the exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe. As I've said, though they are stainless, you can use mild steel wire, doesn't have to be stainless. I prefer mig because run that way it runs so much cooler and doesn't tend to introduce stresses in the weld that may only cause new cracking along side the weld.

Lexmex

Well, the only type of welder my uncle has is an arc welder and he's an artist with it as well.

Mut

Just finished the transmission fluid drain-n-fill along with replacing my side marker light bulb. I had bought 4 quarts of the TYPE T-IV but only ended up using 3 of them. So far it seems like a success but it's been taking me all day waiting for the car to warm up and cool down during each check up.

The draining part was a little unexpected as soon as I loosened up the plug the fluid just poured out and I dropped the plug so I had to fish it out from the drain pan. It was messy.

I marked where 4 quarts was on the drain pan as I initially planned on draining that much but once the fluid started to pour out to a point where it was just a thread-thin stream, I stopped. It didn't reach the 4 quart mark - maybe because I spilled a whole bunch on the ground. Oops.

Either way, I checked the dipstick after the drain. There was barely anything on it. So I poured 2 quarts in immediately. Checked it... but of course since I just had poured something in that narrow tube, I would end up getting fluid almost everywhere on the stick. I let it rest for about 40 minutes and checked it again, it seems okay so I started the engine, put it in to each gear for about 20 seconds each and checked the fluid level again once the car was warmed up (the temperature was about in the middle). The fluid wasn't touching the "hot" mark so I added another quart. I should have probably only about a half of a quart since it seems like every time I've checked the fluid level when the engine was warmed up, it's above hot.

I'm a little cautious since it seems like I poured out a lot but only ended up needing less than 3 quarts. How much is suppose to come out once you undo the plug? Did I drain too little and put in too much? Maybe the opposite?

Next time, I'll do a better job letting it pour out, measuring and filling. I drove it around a little bit and I'll check the fluid levels once more tomorrow morning when the engine has completely cooled down.

Replacing the side marker light bulb was a bit of a hassle but it went well. There was algae growing inside the side marker and it was filled with water to about 1/5 way... gross.

Lexmex

Maybe I'm not clear from what you wrote, but did you drain both the transmission pan and front differential plug?

Mut

Just from the transmission pan...

I followed this: http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/~r...id_change1.htm

Oh my god, did I do this incorrectly?

salimshah

Do you see the second hex drain plug in the picture posted by Lexmex. One vertical on the pan and the other horizontal on the front diff. Been telling you to drain from both.

Well noting terrible, but you could have removed more fluid, had you opened the other as well.

Maybe next time in about a month.

Also the engine should be at idle (running) and gear in Park when you check transmission fluid level. The hot mark is for transmission to be hot (After driving for about 20 minutes). Engine hot and transmission hot are two different things.

Salim

HarrierAWD

It may be easier to check the cold ATF level. Startup in the morning, run through all gears and take a measurement. Remember to check both sides of the stick and take the lower reading.

Once you establish that the cold level is OK, you can check the hot level. I usually do the hot check when I get home from work.

If it's low, add very little fluid (about 2 oz.) each time. It's easier to add a little more fluid than trying to drain a little.

Mut

What are the consequences of having too much fluid?

Lexmex

Depends how high. I've been running at the IV mark on the dipstick for years and no issues. I had some reasons for this but let me know where you are at on your dipstick.

Too high and you can bust seals.

Mut

When it's cool, it's right about at the IV mark (assuming you're talking about the TYPE T-IV writing on it).

Do I need to do another drain? I was going to perform another during Thanksgiving break. I would've driven about 300 miles when I've arrived home for Thanksgiving - I figure I could do the second drain and fill there.

I think I read that you lived in Mexico and been around some high altitudes... well, I don't know what the weather and altitude is like there but over here in Santa Barbara, I have 70-80 degree weather for the most part and we're 33 feet above sea level (according to the sign on the freeway).

Lexmex

That sounds about where mine is when cool, but it doesn't move much from there when hot. However, do report on the level at hot. It still technically is still high at IV.

The difference for me was that at high altitude we had a difference in oxygen content, about 25% less up there, and add the smog and air quality to the equation. I went through brake pads like Homer Simpson went through donuts, but right now my brake pads still have a lot of life on them having lived at sea level for more than half a year.

lexus114

If the atf fluid foams up in their from being overfilled, that is not good.