http://www.ilma.org/resources/impact_lowqualityoils.pdf
This came from over @ bob is the oil guy forum.
Ryan

 

I wonder what brands were used during the test.

 

I`m guessing some cheap stuff from like a Wal-mart automotive section. They do sell all kind`s their,so be careful what you buy.

 

Hey, like yo momma said "you get what you pay for" and that's what happens here. If you have a $30K car, but you're going to treat it like a $1000 investment, then go and get your cheapo $2 oil. Not everything in life is "the more the better" but a $5 name brand oil will be a safer bet than a $1.5 generic looking brand.

 

You got that right!!

 

Some people just don't know.

I found that to be the case when I was in Mexico and saw a lot what I like to call garbage brands were being marketed. Often times, the oil company will agree to paint the outside of the of the mechanic/garage's shop with logos of the oil company emblazoned. This also goes for paint companies doing the same thing. As such (and without naming brands), I remember a few that were commonly thrown around that I had barely heard of in the U.S. The major oil companies also do a bit of this sponsorship, too.

However, I'd often talk to people who would race at my 1/4 mile track in Tlalnepantla and it would be amazing for all of the mechanical ability and the extent of the modifications on some of these vehicles that garbage oils would be used in these vehicles. In addition, they would complain that oils wouldn't last and really weren't "Premium" as described on the outside of the packaging.

Some would use some of the known brands. Royal Purple was a common one that was sold by some people in car clubs, Mobil 1 also had its fans, I had a few friends who ran VW Beetles with turbos that wound up using the Castrol 0W30 we do (since they weren't run except at the track, they found this oil was good when the cars sat around for awhile, too). However, up there at that altitude and in those conditions, sludge was a prevalent worry, and my uncle saw many a sludged vehicle and would always steer his customers to a synthetic whenever they could afford it.

 

MOBIL 1, tried and true for me here in NorthEast for last 20 years or so. 450,000 combined miles of all my vehicles I've used it on and counting, no engine blowups.

 

Mobil used to have good quality products, but it is overpriced for the quality. BITOG site is the first to reveal that Mobil 1 changed formulation couple years ago to use the Group III base oil, which can not be marketed as synthetic oil in E.U. and Japan.
For $7 a quart on non-synthetic oil that is marketed as synthetic, many who know just buy cheaper Group III alternatives or even true synthetic such as German Castrol (Group IV) at lower price.

 

Tuned,does that go for the new 0W-30 advanced fuel economy formula as well?

 

i've never seen an SA rated oil like they tested. even the cheapest walmart brand oil is SL rated. i'll have to look for some SA oil next time i'm in a parts store.
if you guys want to find the rating on your oil, look on the back label. there will be a circle tha tlooks kind of like a sun or a gear. inside it will be something like "API Sx"
imo it would take some effort to find an SA oil. you're not just going to grab an oil off the shelf and have it wind up being SA. chances are you'll grab an SL rated oil even blind folded.

 

Man dont mess around, take it in to a reputable shop. This isn`t a 2.3 liter ford pinto motor here,it`s too involved.

 

I was under the impression that the Mobil1 5-30 was the oil in question that ended up as a group III and that the other Mobil1 one products such as the 0-30w were group IV. I'll try ot dig up some more info on that.

 

Similiar findings were posted about Mobil 1's EP line. In fact, the only ones that could be spared are 0w-20 and 0w-30 because to meet SAE requirement on low temperature viscosity, Mobil has to use superior base oil.

Common misconception is low temperature viscosity rating affects only those in the extreme cold, but in fact it affects ALL motor oils that are not heated up in operating temperature (since no one install an engine warmer and engines can't reach to the ideal temperature immediately after startups).

Yes, for 90% of folks, they do not care, but we are talking about quality in this thread, so this issue deserves to bring to light for those who care. And most the engine wears occur at startup, before engine oil reach the perfect 10 cSt in viscosity for lubricating vital engine parts. And that applies to anyone who does not live >100 F year around.

 

Yeah, I found similar info poking around on BITOG.

WAY too many post to dig through on the subject over there but if anyone wants to, here's a place to start.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1029178

 

I SEE DEAD PEOPLE !!!!

I admit, Mobil 1 has become extremely overpriced, especially when bought by individual quart, but Walmart's 5 qt. jug for $22 is a pretty good deal.