How can you tell if you jumped timing?
#16
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if he wants to make sure it's easy enough to do. jack up the right front side, take the wheel off. removed the fender liner. now there's access to the belts and covers. take off the accessory belts. remove teh covers and crank pulley. the upper cover is tight, wiring harness fits very closely to the cover, tell him to just take his time and detach everything that's int eh way. the motor mount also has to be removed on that side.
it's actually an easy job as far as t belts go, it will probably take him all weekend though.
but once he has the cover off, he'll be able to tell if the belt is broken because it will be loose. if the belt is tight, he should be able to turn the crank pulley with a long ratchet and the cams should turn along with the crank. if the ydon't turn, the belt is bad.
it's actually an easy job as far as t belts go, it will probably take him all weekend though.
but once he has the cover off, he'll be able to tell if the belt is broken because it will be loose. if the belt is tight, he should be able to turn the crank pulley with a long ratchet and the cams should turn along with the crank. if the ydon't turn, the belt is bad.
#17
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I would read the codes and see what you come up with and try and get your husband to stop messing with things that are not broke. IACV, fuel pump, timing belt next, you may be digging yourself into a hole here that will cost a lot to straighten out plus the cost to fix the original problem that is preventing the car from starting. Timing belt problem on this engine is very rare. Just my 2 cents.
Another thought: The reason the engine is turning over so fast if the timing belt is broken is because the compression process is not taking place. I think it would be a lot easier to check compression on one of the front cylinders rather than go for the timing belt.
Another thought: The reason the engine is turning over so fast if the timing belt is broken is because the compression process is not taking place. I think it would be a lot easier to check compression on one of the front cylinders rather than go for the timing belt.
Last edited by mikey00; 01-05-09 at 04:15 PM.
#18
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Thanks everyone for your help.
The timing belt was in tact but now the car backfired and sounds exactly the way you're describing. I'm now sure it's the timing belt and I pray my husband didn't do any more damage to the car. Now he wants to do the timing chain himself. Is this a DIY project or would you recommend I plead and beg for a tow to a mechanic?
The timing belt was in tact but now the car backfired and sounds exactly the way you're describing. I'm now sure it's the timing belt and I pray my husband didn't do any more damage to the car. Now he wants to do the timing chain himself. Is this a DIY project or would you recommend I plead and beg for a tow to a mechanic?
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I would say you are totally jumping the gun going for the timing belt. No offense, but it sounds like you changed out a perfectly good fuel pump and still have no idea if you have fuel pressure or spark. Just the road you are going down for "diagnostics" would make me say you are very much in over your head.
Get a code reader on it and see what it says. I bet it will give you some clues like a coil that is out. Timing belt would be close to last on my list based on what you have posted.
Where are you in OH?
Get a code reader on it and see what it says. I bet it will give you some clues like a coil that is out. Timing belt would be close to last on my list based on what you have posted.
Where are you in OH?
#20
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I would read the codes and see what you come up with and try and get your husband to stop messing with things that are not broke. IACV, fuel pump, timing belt next, you may be digging yourself into a hole here that will cost a lot to straighten out plus the cost to fix the original problem that is preventing the car from starting. Timing belt problem on this engine is very rare. Just my 2 cents.
Another thought: The reason the engine is turning over so fast if the timing belt is broken is because the compression process is not taking place. I think it would be a lot easier to check compression on one of the front cylinders rather than go for the timing belt.
Another thought: The reason the engine is turning over so fast if the timing belt is broken is because the compression process is not taking place. I think it would be a lot easier to check compression on one of the front cylinders rather than go for the timing belt.
Last edited by lexus114; 01-06-09 at 06:44 AM.
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The compression test sounds like a very good idea. Of course , reading the codes seems like a must before anything. Also, the car will start even if a coil is bad it just wont run well.
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I would say you are totally jumping the gun going for the timing belt. No offense, but it sounds like you changed out a perfectly good fuel pump and still have no idea if you have fuel pressure or spark. Just the road you are going down for "diagnostics" would make me say you are very much in over your head.
Get a code reader on it and see what it says. I bet it will give you some clues like a coil that is out. Timing belt would be close to last on my list based on what you have posted.
Where are you in OH?
Get a code reader on it and see what it says. I bet it will give you some clues like a coil that is out. Timing belt would be close to last on my list based on what you have posted.
Where are you in OH?
#23
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I have to agree, I had very similar issues once and turns out it was just the maf sensor. It would turn over but shut off right after and if I kept my foot on the gas it would stay running. I replaced the maf sensor and I was good to go. But the point is like he said go get a code reader, you can rent them for cheap from autozone and check it out. Can't hurt right?
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#24
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I would say you are totally jumping the gun going for the timing belt. No offense, but it sounds like you changed out a perfectly good fuel pump and still have no idea if you have fuel pressure or spark. Just the road you are going down for "diagnostics" would make me say you are very much in over your head.
Get a code reader on it and see what it says. I bet it will give you some clues like a coil that is out. Timing belt would be close to last on my list based on what you have posted.
Where are you in OH?
Get a code reader on it and see what it says. I bet it will give you some clues like a coil that is out. Timing belt would be close to last on my list based on what you have posted.
Where are you in OH?
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I have to agree, I had very similar issues once and turns out it was just the maf sensor. It would turn over but shut off right after and if I kept my foot on the gas it would stay running. I replaced the maf sensor and I was good to go. But the point is like he said go get a code reader, you can rent them for cheap from autozone and check it out. Can't hurt right?
#26
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a maf sensor that's faulty will typically show itself as a code for "system lean bank 1" and "system lean bank 2" because it's reading the wrong amount of air flow, so it's not telling hte ecu to add enough fuel.normally the computer (ecu) won't show a code for the maf itself unless it's totally dead which doesn't happen with the kind that lexus uses.
just post all the codes and i'll tell you where to look.
just post all the codes and i'll tell you where to look.
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Great ... btw this is the first RX with a frayed timing belt post that I can remember. Examine the idlers and if they have a blue hue, they need to be replaced.
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