artbuc

I'm pretty sure they are 8mm x 1.25 pitch.

code58

Hi Thomas- On thing I always prefer to do when installing new pads is to use a large (curved at the end) flat, screw driver type pry (Harbor Freight). I use that between the rotor and the caliper before I pull anything apart. I loosen the bleed screw with 1 hand and pry with the other. Your not pushing any of the fluid back upstream and close the bleed screw with the hand you have on the bleed wrench immediately and you have no bleeding to do and NO danger of introducing air into the system. This is the way I have done it for the the last 25 years. It's very fast and very effective!

thomas1

Code 58, yes that is a great idea, It all works, I always bleed the system to flush out some fluid. I learned hydralics the hard way on British cars, where they leaked at a moments breath. Cant tell you how many times I have rebuilt master cylinders, etc.....

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

wow i bet that would work a lot better than beating on it, thanks man

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

i actually had my brakes done this past summer and i know they bled the brakes then but unfortunately (since this was before i started doing all the work myself) i got my tires rotated at jiffy lube and since they used to gun it warped my freshly turned rotors, i didnt really know enough about it to really determine what happened until much later when it was too late to go back and be like B!TC4, FIX MY SH!1

so i think im good as far as the quality of the fluid, i get very good response from the brakes its just that rotors themselves are warped, my girls dad has all the tools ill need to do it and she said they have some tools that make it so they dont have to bleed the brakes, not sure what they have but i trust her ;^)

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

UPDATE: so this job went really smooth yesterday, i took a bunch of pics and am going to write up a DIY for changing out your rotors once i get the pics uploaded

TunedRX300

When is the last time the brake fluid get changed?

• You need to flush the brake fluid because it absorbs water over time, water boils at lower temperature and air will be in the system the next time brake fluid boils.
• Any work done on the brake runs the risk of introducing air into the system. A good shop bleed the brakes because one's life is depended on it.
• Engine fails, you can coast to a stop. Brakes fails, you fill in the blank.

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

the fluid is less than a year old, we didnt bleed the brakes yesterday evening, we just compressed the calipers with a clamp and that worked fine. I see your point about getting air in the line and or water and how dangerous that could potentially be, but none of the fluid came out of the resivior and the fluid is not very old so i wasnt pressed about doing it right then. Ill do it at some point though

heres a question though, how could water get into the line? i thought it was a closed system?

TunedRX300

Brake system is not an closed system. Air has moisture and rubber hoses such as the ones connect brake calipers to the metal brake lines have tiny pores. Connectors do not have a perfect seal, everytime you wiggle them, air goes in. Brake reservior are made of plastic, plastic are not air tight materials.
This is the exact reason that commercial brake fluid distributers use vaccuum chambers to store them.

Stoptech's white paper explains it well
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

UNOHOO

iTrader: (3)

see, thats why i love you guys, you guys are experts on just about everything lol, thats pretty wild man

so it would probably be best to run the old fluid out while having somebody pour new fluid in simultaneously until the new comes out the bottom huh?

also how often do you think one should change out the fluid?