RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

a little help please???

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Old 04-05-09, 01:53 PM
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Joebang
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So i just changed my rear rotors and brake pads...Everything went smooth and ok,,,i think...After i put the tires on and give it a go,i pumped my barkes,than i tried to go and it feels like the calipers are why to tight..it wont move unless i gun it..And yes i compressed them with a C clamp.... Any suggestions or ideas.?.
Old 04-05-09, 03:46 PM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by Joebang
So i just changed my rear rotors and brake pads...Everything went smooth and ok,,,i think...After i put the tires on and give it a go,i pumped my barkes,than i tried to go and it feels like the calipers are why to tight..it wont move unless i gun it..And yes i compressed them with a C clamp.... Any suggestions or ideas.?.
Did you clean and lube the caliper slide pins?
Old 04-05-09, 03:49 PM
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Joebang
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yes sir.....
Old 04-05-09, 04:35 PM
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salimshah
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Start by jacking up the wheel you think is sticking.

Spin test the wheel.

Recheck your work and if necessary remove every thing and re-assemble.

One thing comes to mind is that you may like to bleed the brake fluid. Not that you have introduced air in the system, but you may have send the grime back up in the pipe when you compressed the chamber with "C" clamp. The fluid enters the chamber under pressure, but the return is due to the run-out in the disc which pushes the piston back and the fluid must be able to travel without resistance.

Note: When ever I work with brakes, before letting the wheel down, I ask my assistant to push on the pedal while I spin the wheel to confirm braking and release.

Note #2: The rear wheels are also controlled by the auxiliary brake. Make sure it is fully released and that section is not causing you any problems.

Salim
Old 04-05-09, 07:00 PM
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carguy07
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I'm guessing that the shoes for the parking brake are dragging. Either that or the piston was damaged when you compressed it and it is hanging up. That's about all that can go wrong in there. It's not like you can screw up and not push the piston in enough. If you can get the caliper back on you're good to go. Let us know what you find.
Old 04-05-09, 07:16 PM
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carguy07
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One other thing I thought of is possibly the pads are binding in the shims??

I used autozone pads and mine were a little tight so I buffed a little bit of the powder coat off where they ride on the shims to get them to move smoothly.

Did you use OE pads? Did you replace the anti-squeal shims or clean the grit off the old ones?

If the pads are not free to float in the anti-squeal shims I could see them hang up too.
Old 04-06-09, 08:18 AM
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Joebang
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Thanks for all the input guys...But after taking everything apart to double check,i compaired my new rotor to the old one and i notice the inside were slightly different..The new rotors were rubbing against something..So i got different ones..Problem sloved... thanks again fellas,im glad i found such a helpful site...


But there appears to be another problem looming with the brakes..im getting like a cliclking or popping noise from directly under the middle of the vehicle as i slow down.The brake work fine,the peddel isnt soft..when it clicks i notice sometimes my headlights flicker a lil.... any ideas you guys seem to be on top of this????? thanks again joe.
Old 04-06-09, 09:45 AM
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salimshah
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The click could be from the brake switch, that activates the brake lights. The dimming of the headlamps you observe is due to additional load on the alternator as the lamps divert the current. [Normal behavior].

Salim

ps: Did you have a difficult time to get the caliper back on or is the clearance is just enough when the rotor is cold?
Old 04-06-09, 06:03 PM
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sktn77a
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A common metallic clicking noise is the calipers sliding and bangiing on the slide pins. You can put some moly grease on the slide pins but, interestingly, once they start making that noise, there doesn't appear to be any real solution (that I've found).
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