RX300 valet key -car won't start
#1
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RX300 valet key -car won't start
200o RX300 with my valet key, the starter turns but the car won;t start.
Is there a battery like in the remotes??
or what?
Is there a battery like in the remotes??
or what?
#2
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The valet key (with plastic shell) should perform all functions except operate the glove-box lock. I dont use it but form memory it has a gray shell instead of black. It should have a battery and it is "chipped". The chip id is matched by the on-board computer and it will allow the engine to catch. Try changing the battery and see. If it is not an original key, then the on-board computer needs to be programmed to accept the un-registered key, but you will need master key to initiate the programming. Use search if you want to do it yourself and look for "key programming".
If by chance you are talking about the wallet key, flat key with no plastic shell [that came in a credit card look alike], the '99 model did not have a chip id. So the only good it would do is get you in the RX. Some where down the road, Lexus supplied the wallet key with a magnetic chip id, which you hold close to the ignition key slot.
With a wrong chip, and the right personalization (grooves in the key), you will be able to operate the locks. With a right remote programming, you will be able to lock-unlock, operate the panic alarm. By inserting in the ignition key, you will be able to make the starter operate, but the engine will not catch and run.
Salim
If by chance you are talking about the wallet key, flat key with no plastic shell [that came in a credit card look alike], the '99 model did not have a chip id. So the only good it would do is get you in the RX. Some where down the road, Lexus supplied the wallet key with a magnetic chip id, which you hold close to the ignition key slot.
With a wrong chip, and the right personalization (grooves in the key), you will be able to operate the locks. With a right remote programming, you will be able to lock-unlock, operate the panic alarm. By inserting in the ignition key, you will be able to make the starter operate, but the engine will not catch and run.
Salim
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Valet key
Its the grey key not the wallet plastic key --
called dealer to see cost for him to change the battery and he says there is no battery.
wants $125 to register the key.
called dealer to see cost for him to change the battery and he says there is no battery.
wants $125 to register the key.
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Salim
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Valet key
Thanks.
The valet key came with the car when I bought it used.
Tonight, I'll try programming using the instructions elsewhere on this forum.
Since one if my masters has a broken case, I'll order a new case(with key) and hve it cut so I can move my existing master electronics to it.
Was trying to use the valet in the interim.
The valet key came with the car when I bought it used.
Tonight, I'll try programming using the instructions elsewhere on this forum.
Since one if my masters has a broken case, I'll order a new case(with key) and hve it cut so I can move my existing master electronics to it.
Was trying to use the valet in the interim.
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#8
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This is new learning for me ..
Just for grins, can you unhook the valet key from the key ring and make sure no other object is near the ignition-slot when you test the valet key [just in case some thing is near and causing interference]
I always thought the electronic id was transmitted by the key, from the electronics in there. This circuit would draw power from the battery.
Form the description here [no battery in the valet key] would indicate a "magnetic sender" instead of electro-magnetic one. If it is magnetic, then the only way to loose the registration would be if a strong magnet was placed next to it. This thing has me confused . May be some one can explain it. It could be that a unique magnet is molded in the master key electronics and it does not draw power.
I think, [not sure] that the ecu can register about 9 keys and beyond that it needs to be reflashed or replaced. If you are no where near the number, go ahead and try to re-register it. If you are close then wait till your re-cut master gets registered first.
Just for grins, can you unhook the valet key from the key ring and make sure no other object is near the ignition-slot when you test the valet key [just in case some thing is near and causing interference]
I always thought the electronic id was transmitted by the key, from the electronics in there. This circuit would draw power from the battery.
Form the description here [no battery in the valet key] would indicate a "magnetic sender" instead of electro-magnetic one. If it is magnetic, then the only way to loose the registration would be if a strong magnet was placed next to it. This thing has me confused . May be some one can explain it. It could be that a unique magnet is molded in the master key electronics and it does not draw power.
I think, [not sure] that the ecu can register about 9 keys and beyond that it needs to be reflashed or replaced. If you are no where near the number, go ahead and try to re-register it. If you are close then wait till your re-cut master gets registered first.
#9
I couldn't see a description of what happens when you exceed the permissible number of keys, but I seem to recall from programming a neighbor's a few years ago, that the newest keys enter and the oldest are discarded, rather than just not accepting any more.
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Thanks; I used the forum guidance to register the key--now works fine.
I did the prgramming as a subkey(valet) rather than a master key to try to avoid the possibility of wiping out a previous master.
I did the prgramming as a subkey(valet) rather than a master key to try to avoid the possibility of wiping out a previous master.
#11
Lexus Test Driver
This is new learning for me ..
Just for grins, can you unhook the valet key from the key ring and make sure no other object is near the ignition-slot when you test the valet key [just in case some thing is near and causing interference]
I always thought the electronic id was transmitted by the key, from the electronics in there. This circuit would draw power from the battery.
Form the description here [no battery in the valet key] would indicate a "magnetic sender" instead of electro-magnetic one. If it is magnetic, then the only way to loose the registration would be if a strong magnet was placed next to it. This thing has me confused . May be some one can explain it. It could be that a unique magnet is molded in the master key electronics and it does not draw power.
I think, [not sure] that the ecu can register about 9 keys and beyond that it needs to be reflashed or replaced. If you are no where near the number, go ahead and try to re-register it. If you are close then wait till your re-cut master gets registered first.
Just for grins, can you unhook the valet key from the key ring and make sure no other object is near the ignition-slot when you test the valet key [just in case some thing is near and causing interference]
I always thought the electronic id was transmitted by the key, from the electronics in there. This circuit would draw power from the battery.
Form the description here [no battery in the valet key] would indicate a "magnetic sender" instead of electro-magnetic one. If it is magnetic, then the only way to loose the registration would be if a strong magnet was placed next to it. This thing has me confused . May be some one can explain it. It could be that a unique magnet is molded in the master key electronics and it does not draw power.
I think, [not sure] that the ecu can register about 9 keys and beyond that it needs to be reflashed or replaced. If you are no where near the number, go ahead and try to re-register it. If you are close then wait till your re-cut master gets registered first.
#12
Moderator
So the magnet is embedded in the electronic middle. That would then move from one key to another once the electronics moves.
Thanks
Salim
Thanks
Salim
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