Replacing Front Brakes
#1
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Location: Maryland
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Replacing Front Brakes
Called the dealer today to get a price on front pads for my 01…$178.42 included pads and installation kit. Has anyone else replaced them and do I need the installation kit? Looked online and can get the pads shipped for $66; anything special about dealers pads except 3x the price?
Thanks
TE
Thanks
TE
#2
Moderator
Try search on DIY instructions. Depending what needs replacement ... I have only needed pads and anti-chatter grease.
Dealership will charge you labor on top and charge for turning rotors if needed.
Salim
Dealership will charge you labor on top and charge for turning rotors if needed.
Salim
#3
Go onto Irontoad and get the pads for around $45. They're a dealership in PA, so if you're in Maryland, you should get the parts either next day or within 2 days. I purchase in morning and get it in NJ next day because UPS is so close.
The installation "kit" is probably the pads and the flange bolts, can't imagine much else, except perhaps the shims, but you can reuse the existing ones.
The installation "kit" is probably the pads and the flange bolts, can't imagine much else, except perhaps the shims, but you can reuse the existing ones.
#4
I replaced my front brake pads last month (first time). I got the brake pads (OEM) from Irontoad.com also. They advised me that I very likely didn't need a new anti-squeal shim kit and they were right. It was in new condition. It helps to get a spreader? (to push in the piston) and disk pad grease from your local auto parts store. Once the wheel is off, it is only a few-minute job.
I do have a slight squeal though. I should have used the drying membrane spread I have used on the rear of the pads on previous cars (also available at auto parts stores). A mechanic showing how to replace RX300 brake pads on Youtube.com used the stuff.
The DIYs don't explain how to lube the sliders (a separate job), so I didn't. They seemed to slide OK.
I do have a slight squeal though. I should have used the drying membrane spread I have used on the rear of the pads on previous cars (also available at auto parts stores). A mechanic showing how to replace RX300 brake pads on Youtube.com used the stuff.
The DIYs don't explain how to lube the sliders (a separate job), so I didn't. They seemed to slide OK.
#6
C-clamp
I've changed the front and back of my '99 and I the pistons are pushed back in, not "spread" per say.
A 6" clamp will do fine.
#7
Lexus Test Driver
I replaced my front brake pads last month (first time). I got the brake pads (OEM) from Irontoad.com also. They advised me that I very likely didn't need a new anti-squeal shim kit and they were right. It was in new condition. It helps to get a spreader? (to push in the piston) and disk pad grease from your local auto parts store. Once the wheel is off, it is only a few-minute job.
I do have a slight squeal though. I should have used the drying membrane spread I have used on the rear of the pads on previous cars (also available at auto parts stores). A mechanic showing how to replace RX300 brake pads on Youtube.com used the stuff.
The DIYs don't explain how to lube the sliders (a separate job), so I didn't. They seemed to slide OK.
I do have a slight squeal though. I should have used the drying membrane spread I have used on the rear of the pads on previous cars (also available at auto parts stores). A mechanic showing how to replace RX300 brake pads on Youtube.com used the stuff.
The DIYs don't explain how to lube the sliders (a separate job), so I didn't. They seemed to slide OK.
Last edited by mikey00; 07-15-09 at 06:52 AM.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
C-clamp works fine but the pros do have a spreader made just for this purpose. You can get a cheap one for less than $10.
#10
Spread em' Dano
As for grease or Brake-Quiet, I've used both, and really, have not noticed any difference in effectiveness or not. Again, if you don't have either, get the grease instead.
Anyway, keep us posted on your job and how it went. One thing though, the OEM pads are not "symmetrical" per say in that the surface as one edge that is sort of grooved. I put that grooved side on the bottom so that it isn't facing up and catching brake dust and eventually collecting a little pile. I don't know if this is necessarily right or wrong because it fits both ways.
#11
Moderator
Tip: Throw in a socket to save all the turning to reach the bottom of the cavity & un-threading all the way back to the top.
Salim
#12
The 6" may be an overkill ... I have been using 3" but it has to be angled in .. a 4" should be fine ... and certainly a 6" will work too.
Tip: Throw in a socket to save all the turning to reach the bottom of the cavity & un-threading all the way back to the top.
Salim
Tip: Throw in a socket to save all the turning to reach the bottom of the cavity & un-threading all the way back to the top.
Salim
#13
If the brake fluid has been topped up as the discs have been wearing down (i.e., pistons expanding), you will have to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder when you push the pistons back.
#15
The bedding is also needed. The following is what I did.
1). After installing the pad and put the wheels back.
2). I have found a long open road.
3). Drive to 40mph and brake slowly to 10mph
4). And drive to 40mph again and brake slowly to 10mph
Did this at least 10 times. The surface of the pads will be completely kissing the rotors. It maximize the performance of the pad and brake noise will be eliminated.
1). After installing the pad and put the wheels back.
2). I have found a long open road.
3). Drive to 40mph and brake slowly to 10mph
4). And drive to 40mph again and brake slowly to 10mph
Did this at least 10 times. The surface of the pads will be completely kissing the rotors. It maximize the performance of the pad and brake noise will be eliminated.
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