Honey like fluid in the intake
#1
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Honey like fluid in the intake
Guys,
I took apart the air canister and the corrugate hose (split in 2) to clean the AFS and found that the little hose that goes from the engine to the corrugate hose was full of sludge, making the intake looks dirty. I cleaned good, but still a little concern about the honey like sludge that came out of the hose, is there any way to by pass that little hose that comes from the engine? I did replace the PC valve about 2k miles ago.
Is that another PC valve?
Thanks
I took apart the air canister and the corrugate hose (split in 2) to clean the AFS and found that the little hose that goes from the engine to the corrugate hose was full of sludge, making the intake looks dirty. I cleaned good, but still a little concern about the honey like sludge that came out of the hose, is there any way to by pass that little hose that comes from the engine? I did replace the PC valve about 2k miles ago.
Is that another PC valve?
Thanks
#2
Guys,
I took apart the air canister and the corrugate hose (split in 2) to clean the AFS and found that the little hose that goes from the engine to the corrugate hose was full of sludge, making the intake looks dirty. I cleaned good, but still a little concern about the honey like sludge that came out of the hose, is there any way to by pass that little hose that comes from the engine? I did replace the PC valve about 2k miles ago.
Is that another PC valve?
Thanks
I took apart the air canister and the corrugate hose (split in 2) to clean the AFS and found that the little hose that goes from the engine to the corrugate hose was full of sludge, making the intake looks dirty. I cleaned good, but still a little concern about the honey like sludge that came out of the hose, is there any way to by pass that little hose that comes from the engine? I did replace the PC valve about 2k miles ago.
Is that another PC valve?
Thanks
Oh sorry, I was on a holiday . My guess is it's varnish from engine vapors but I could be all wrong.
#3
Super Moderator
Guys,
I took apart the air canister and the corrugate hose (split in 2) to clean the AFS and found that the little hose that goes from the engine to the corrugate hose was full of sludge, making the intake looks dirty. I cleaned good, but still a little concern about the honey like sludge that came out of the hose, is there any way to by pass that little hose that comes from the engine? I did replace the PC valve about 2k miles ago.
Is that another PC valve?
Thanks
I took apart the air canister and the corrugate hose (split in 2) to clean the AFS and found that the little hose that goes from the engine to the corrugate hose was full of sludge, making the intake looks dirty. I cleaned good, but still a little concern about the honey like sludge that came out of the hose, is there any way to by pass that little hose that comes from the engine? I did replace the PC valve about 2k miles ago.
Is that another PC valve?
Thanks
Take a look here, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...fications.html
Starting at post 8.
Lately what I have been experimenting is not adding the extended black hosing on to the PCV valve and the other hose running from the top of the engine block. I'll try to take some photos later today to show this. I've been running like that for several months an no issues.
#5
Super Moderator
Sorry I am back so late. We've been having a lot of rain and nutty thunderstorms.
Here are some photos I took earlier this evening of my current experimentation. I have been running this setup for some months now.
Okay, on the driver's side we have this crankcase vent hose that comes out of the top of the engine block and goes to...absolutely nowhere. Meanwhile, as you saw in the prior thread I mentioned, I have capped off the place where the hose would have gone into (and thus thrown back the vapor and crud (i.e., honey-like substance).
Now, one may ask, well doesn't this allow oil and other stuff to drip somewhere?
I've been asking myself the same question, but thus far after several months of experimentation, I have seen no residue or anything dropping on to the top of the transmission (since I don't have an airbox).
By not having this crud go back into the engine, my throttle body is a lot cleaner, not to mention combustion.
Here are some photos I took earlier this evening of my current experimentation. I have been running this setup for some months now.
Okay, on the driver's side we have this crankcase vent hose that comes out of the top of the engine block and goes to...absolutely nowhere. Meanwhile, as you saw in the prior thread I mentioned, I have capped off the place where the hose would have gone into (and thus thrown back the vapor and crud (i.e., honey-like substance).
Now, one may ask, well doesn't this allow oil and other stuff to drip somewhere?
I've been asking myself the same question, but thus far after several months of experimentation, I have seen no residue or anything dropping on to the top of the transmission (since I don't have an airbox).
By not having this crud go back into the engine, my throttle body is a lot cleaner, not to mention combustion.
#6
Super Moderator
Now, on the passenger side, I disconnected the hose going between the PCV valve and the intake manifold and again capped off the entry on the intake manifold. Again, no problems here.
However, I should mention that the combustion cycle (when this system is functioning normally) is used to help 'suck' out the vapors, like a pump to be burned in the combustion cycle. By having this thing set up as is, the oil itself might be a little bit fouler than if this system was setup as it came from the factory. I'll accept that and change the oil more often if I have to. Right now, I am using Castrol 0W30 and the longer HP-2009 filter from K&N, and expect perhaps in a few months to do an oil change and we'll see what comes out at that time.
However, I should mention that the combustion cycle (when this system is functioning normally) is used to help 'suck' out the vapors, like a pump to be burned in the combustion cycle. By having this thing set up as is, the oil itself might be a little bit fouler than if this system was setup as it came from the factory. I'll accept that and change the oil more often if I have to. Right now, I am using Castrol 0W30 and the longer HP-2009 filter from K&N, and expect perhaps in a few months to do an oil change and we'll see what comes out at that time.
#7
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Great, I heard that some cars need the crank vent connected to the throttle, seems like ours don't. I'll do some test today and I'll let you know.
Thanks
Thanks
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#8
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As long as those holes are capped off (like I did with those rubber pieces), you should be fine. The duct tape should be used behind it to create a tight seal, though you can trim the excess tape off for aesthetic reasons.
#9
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Lexmex,
Did the experiment, the idle is a little bit higher now, but very smooth.
Thanks
By the way Cruiter, have you try a Pain killer??? its made out of Captain Morgans, very nice drink but kicks like a horse!!!
Did the experiment, the idle is a little bit higher now, but very smooth.
Thanks
By the way Cruiter, have you try a Pain killer??? its made out of Captain Morgans, very nice drink but kicks like a horse!!!
#11
Super Moderator
I have to do that on occasion and that usually helps the idle.
#13
Super Moderator
Some people do this using an oil catch tank or having a little air filter on the end of the hose, but I have found the method I have done works just fine.
#14
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By doing this, we are not allowing gases, vapors (basically oil crud) to go into the combustion process, allowing for a cleaner burn of air/fuel.
Some people do this using an oil catch tank or having a little air filter on the end of the hose, but I have found the method I have done works just fine.
Some people do this using an oil catch tank or having a little air filter on the end of the hose, but I have found the method I have done works just fine.
I'm thinking if your vehicle is old enough and your numbers are "just passing" that this bypass might actually bump you into failing numbers...