carguy07

That's my bet right now too.

salimshah

This is very important part of information .. only one pad moving ... this tells me the fluid is not moving easily form the master cylinder to the slave(s).[And the reverse .. the compressed fluid in slaves moves back into the reservoir when you release the brake pedal ... the reverse flow is based on pads being pushed back by the run-out (small play) in the rotation. I would get a fresh bottle of fluid and bleed of all the fluid in the lines. Just make sure you do not introduce air in the system. Work with a buddy and bleed the farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the nearest. You should stop when you get the clean stream of fresh fluid.

I typically bleed the old fluid out when I do the brakes. This ensures the fresh clean fluid moves back in the cylinder.

Again this is just one of the possibilities of what could be wrong.

If you have changed a component (rotor/caliper) you need to do more than visual compare.. the clearances are very tight. Dont take things for granted. All the more reason to check for free spin.

Salim

02RX300AWD

Ok guys I think I figured out what is binding because it is happening on both sides. I was putting the wheel back on and everything seemed to moving freely. After I tightened the lugs on the wheels and then tried to spin the wheel it was not moving. So it seems now that when the wheel is fully tight it wont move but when I loosen all the lugs the wheel will spin.

Now I am staring to think I may have the wrong rotors like someone else said above. Could it be possible that the rotors for the FWD and AWD are different thicknesses and look identical? Any suggestions?

mikey00

This is getting far to complicated for a simple problem. I am pretty sure it's the rotors as I already posted. To check this, no taking apart, no measuring or comparing needs to be done. All you need to do is check the part # of the rotors you used and the model # of your RX located on the drivers side door at the bottom below the barcode.

02RX300AWD

Ok ill do that but I guess im confused as to how that will tell me if i have the right rotors or not? And yes the inner pad is binding on the rotor, so you were right.

Oh yeah mikey i noticed on the other forum that you have listed a 01 RX300 SS. I am assuming the SS stands for silverport, correct? Well if that is the case we have the same vehicle.

02RX300AWD

Ok I just went out and checked what you said before. Now I am very confused. Here is what is listed under the barcode.

C/TR 1C0/WZ22 A/TM 02A/U140F MCU15C-AWPGKA

mikey00

FWD and AWD rear rotors have different part #s. I am not sure what they are right now but if you can supply the part # I should be able to confirm what you have or just call wherever you got them from and see if they can confirm FWD or AWD. Also checking the model code below the barcode on your driver's door will just confirm your car has FWD or AWD. MCU10=FWD, MCU15=AWD. I just think possible wrong rotors are the most likely cause and one the the easiest things to check being you only need to look at a part # and model #. I would not move on to things like bleeding brakes until the easiest and most obvious things are eliminated.
I do have a 2001 SilverSport but I am a little confused about yours. You have yours listed as a 2002 but I thought the SS was only available in 2001.

Edit: i just saw your most recent post. The model # indicates you definetly have AWD. Now just confirm what rotors you have.

02RX300AWD

Yes i just saw that too thank you. Now as far as model year I am dumb and it is a 2001 not the 2002 i put down.

The part number for the rear rotors is E35UPR7228

salimshah

Tighten the lug nut slowly and keep spinning. You will hear scraping noise. Then undo the wheel and see what is shining.

Salim

02RX300AWD

Ok it seems that along with the inner brake pad the brake pad bracket has some shiney parts on it. I find it hard to believe that the braket would be rubbing but the shine says otherwise. Could this mean that the rotors are not right? Or something else?

mikey00

OK, now we are getting somewhere. I am assuming you got your EBC rotors from Auto Parts Warehouse or Pep Boys. Both places, plus there may be others, don't seem to know the E35UPR7228 is for FWD only. If you go to a site like buybrakes.com (for reference, not recommending them) you will see that the E35UPR7228 is for FWD only.
If you get the right rotors problem will be gone. Looks like you need E35UPR7229.

02RX300AWD

Son of a *****! Yes i got them from auto parts warehouse. ARRRGGGG this is so messed up you would think a place that is supposed to sell auto parts would know what the hell is going on! Well I guess now I am going to have to fight with them to return them. Thank you sooo much for the help!!!

beachlover

It seems to me that it would be a good idea whenever we've finished a brake job/service to put on the lug nuts without the wheel and spin it (in neutral with both wheels up, and on jack stands) then we'll be sure it's right, and also will know if the emergency brake needs adjustment. When poster said wheel spun freely, I didn't know it was only the rotor without any lug nuts tightened that was spinning freely....

02RX300AWD

Yes it probably is a good idea but honestly I have done many brake jobs and never run across anything like this. I think the lesson we should learn from this is to always double check the parts and what they are for. Especially when the parts store doesn't ask if you have AWD or FWD. I didnt think it was a big deal before but come to find out it is! haha

Thanks for all the help guys!! I will let you know how it goes when I get the new rotors in!

mikey00

I have done a lot of brake jobs and never put the lugs on without the wheel for a test spin and most likely never will. What was the response you received from Auto Parts Warehouse?