RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

Brake Pads

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Old 08-13-09, 12:25 PM
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hypervish
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Default Brake Pads

Hi all,
Tomorrow i am going to be changing my brake pads and might change my rotors depending on the condition the are. Do you guys have any suggestions? I do travel every about 3-4 months I go to Michigan and I live in New Jersey and I will soon be going to Florida with this car. And the other times i just use my car to commute to college. So, just base your suggestions on that if you need to know how i use my car. Also one more question should i install a KNN air intake, i'm not too sure if it will improve anything everything in my car is stock. I see many people wondering what type of oil they use so here is my answer... Mobile 1 Synthetic before Mobile 1 I used Pentosynth but i prefer Mobile 1 more now cause i feel the performance increase. I currently have 134,679 Miles on the car . I bought the car at 99,000 miles as far as i know it still has the same tranny as the day it was manufactured might i mention the car is still going strong(KNOCKS ON WOOD)lol.
Wait...i just remembered i have another question when i go at about 80mph my rpms are around 3,000 is that normal? I have heard that these RX'S love to run hot. Well thanks for listening and hopefully atleast somebody will answer. Sorry for wasting your time and writing so much.

Last edited by hypervish; 08-13-09 at 12:29 PM.
Old 08-13-09, 12:47 PM
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bob2200
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You should be able to tell the condition of the rotors (at least the outer side) by just looking at them on the car. I have only 76,000 miles on my RX and just changed the pads for the first time a month or so ago. I used OEM pads, and some on the forum suggest OEM and others aftermarket. If you are planning on doing it yourself, I have suggestions, since I recently did it for the first time (on a Japanese car).

I have kept my RX300 pretty much stock, but others on the forum have gone with aftermarket air intakes and air cleaners.

I think that that rpm at 80 mph sounds right to me. I personally have never taken my car that fast (yes, really ). I think the top speedometer markings on my old Mercedes were 70 or 75 mph! I do take my car out on the highway and I really don't see anybody doing 80 mph on I-95 between Virgnia and Florida.

I don't know about loving to run hot, but they will take the speed I think. The temperature gauge should stay in the middle range. It sounds like you are using quality motor oil, which is especially good if you are driving at higher speeds.
Old 08-13-09, 03:47 PM
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JAB
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If I were you I would spend my money on a competent change of all fluids, rather than an after-market intake.
Old 08-14-09, 08:01 AM
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hypervish
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I'm sorry i should have re-worded that,by hot i mean they like to run in higher rpm's. And yes the temperature gauge is in the middle and does not overheat. Sorry about the miscommunication.
Old 08-14-09, 10:07 AM
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Just curious, where in Florida will you be going?
Old 08-14-09, 11:07 AM
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lexina
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Any ceramic pads will work, like akebono. If you still have oem rotors, it is time to replace them too with aftermarket rotors. The oem rotors get warped easily and it is a waste to turn them. Believe me, pads and rotors are one of the things you want the best. It saves lives and avoid accidents. You wont believe it until it happens. Not that you are a fast driver, but you have to avoid bad drivers out there. 3k rpm at 80 is about correct.

Last edited by lexina; 08-14-09 at 11:16 AM.
Old 08-14-09, 11:11 AM
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I will be going to Jacksonville,Florida as well as Miami. Also lexina, i am gonna get the best type of pads and rotors because your right it is all about safety and its best not to be cheap and keep old rotors so ill get new ones. But one question should i get slotted rotors or is it better without slots.
Old 08-14-09, 08:12 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mnb_ilGDAU8

Speaking of your RPMs and 80 mph, take a look at where mine are at the beginning of this video I did about 3 years ago in Mexico. I have been using Castrol 0W30 for the past few years (AutoZone and Pep Boys are the two places I see it at) and love that stuff (that's what is known as German Castrol).

With the K&N air filter, I used to have that. Thing I had to do was rinse off the oil on the side facing the MAF sensor (basically the top of the air filter as you would be looking at it in the airbox) and just recoating the side facing the air flow, otherwise the MAF sensor would get coated in oil and have to be cleaned. The OEM air filter is a bit restrictive in my opinion and had I kept my intake stock, I'd likely be using it. Last year I did put a K&N filter in my girlfriend's Expedition and haven't seen an issue with her MAF sensor following this same advice.
Old 08-15-09, 12:31 AM
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code58
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Originally Posted by lexina
Any ceramic pads will work, like akebono. If you still have oem rotors, it is time to replace them too with aftermarket rotors. The oem rotors get warped easily and it is a waste to turn them. Believe me, pads and rotors are one of the things you want the best. It saves lives and avoid accidents. You wont believe it until it happens. Not that you are a fast driver, but you have to avoid bad drivers out there. 3k rpm at 80 is about correct.
Lexina- With all due respect I disagree with you on the rotors. I feel the rotors that Toyota (Lexus) puts on their cars are better than most aftermarket rotors by far (typical of the rest of the parts they use to build their cars). The original rotors on my DIL's 99Rx have 133k mi., have never been turned, have gone through at least 3 sets of pads and still look in very good shape. No warpage of any kind. My wife's '02 Camry has 53k mi., mostly local stop and go driving and the pads are only about half worn and the rotors amaze me at how smooth they are. Way too many of the rotors you buy today are made in China (even some original equipment American car manufacturers) and are very soft and wear extremely fast. And I'm not just talking about the cheap ones either. Give me an OEM T/L rotor any day over aftermarket. If you get slotted and cross drilled, if they ever need to be turned, they're going to have to be ground, you can't turn them like a conventional rotor.
Old 08-15-09, 03:54 AM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by lexina
Any ceramic pads will work, like akebono. If you still have oem rotors, it is time to replace them too with aftermarket rotors. The oem rotors get warped easily and it is a waste to turn them. Believe me, pads and rotors are one of the things you want the best. It saves lives and avoid accidents. You wont believe it until it happens. Not that you are a fast driver, but you have to avoid bad drivers out there. 3k rpm at 80 is about correct.
Comments re rotors warping does not match my experience at all. I have owned 7 different Toyota & Lexus vehicles over the last 35 years and found their rotors & pads to be outstanding! I am amazed at people's never ending search for aftermarket pads when the performance and cost of OEM Lexus pads is outstanding. Virtually dust-free, excellent stopping and they typically last 70-90k miles. I don't get it.
Old 08-15-09, 09:19 AM
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I'll add a bit to this.

I did find the the stock Lexus pads held up better down in Mexico better than almost anything except the Akebono pads I am using now, and Akebono makes the Lexus pads. I tried Hawk, EBS, Carbotech, Ferodo. I actually still have the same Akebono pads I was using back in 2007 still on my vehicle.

With the rotors, yes, I did have my problems there, but remember my driving habits, including racing. Even then, I have not had any issue since I last had the rotors machined in Mexico 2 years ago, because I am now at sea level unlike back in Mexico City and I don't race the little RX anymore.
Old 08-15-09, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by artbuc
Comments re rotors warping does not match my experience at all. I have owned 7 different Toyota & Lexus vehicles over the last 35 years and found their rotors & pads to be outstanding! I am amazed at people's never ending search for aftermarket pads when the performance and cost of OEM Lexus pads is outstanding. Virtually dust-free, excellent stopping and they typically last 70-90k miles. I don't get it.
Having spent my life in automotive, Art, I have no shortage of experience with both OEM and aftermarket parts. Except for the planetary carrier in the T/L AT, I never cease to be amazed at the quality of the OEM parts they build their cars with. I honestly do not ever recall seeing that kind of quality in ANY OEM parts in American cars. It is not surprising that Toyota became a world leader in the automotive field. My wife and I were both very loyal to American auto co.'s, but I finally told her, I don't have time to fix 'em when they shouldn't be breaking, so I think it's time to reward the people who care enough to do it right. We don't put a lot of miles on our vehicles anymore, but not a single trace of a problem with the Toyota at just 7 yrs. old. That was a waste of an extended warrantee wasn't it?
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