RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

DIY Oil Change

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Old 08-08-11, 06:53 AM
  #46  
hypervish
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Originally Posted by Iluvlexus
I bought a cheap filter cap at Walmart which I attach to a stubby extension and my ratchet and it works great to access the filter from above.
x2, that's what I use. I've bought every single size from Walmart. LOL
It truly does make it much easier. I usually do it from the top, but sometimes I'll remove the bottom cover anyways so that the oil doesn't continue dripping from when I take off the filter.

I don't really hate the location of the oil filter but I wish it didn't leave oil all over the place. Every time I do an oil change the oil keeps dripping from the front of the car where the filter is for about a week till all the oil gets cleaner from around the engine mount and frame. At least all of that oil on the frame will stop rust. haha
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Old 08-08-11, 08:23 AM
  #47  
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73 mm 14 flutes - 1 step should be single one time purchase. I threw out my band type filter tool and the ~ $5 purchase has been great (for my other cars too).

My crib with the filter position is that it drips right on top of the front engine mount. This mount has the electronic inverse kicker to dampen the motor vibration and is an expensive piece to replace. Engine oil and rubber mounts don't like to coexist.

Some one posted that if you loosen the filter ever to slightly to get a gentle stream going, it can be caught in a pan below. I dont have the patience so rags is all I stuff to catch the flood.

Salim
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Old 09-18-11, 07:06 PM
  #48  
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I stocked up the German castrol and the K&N filters almost an year ago. I just noticed that I am left with a K&N 1003 filter. Will that work? Or should I get the 1002? I don't have the receipt to do the exchange. I take the oil and filter to the dealership and they charge $20-$25. Thanks.
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Old 09-19-11, 07:38 AM
  #49  
Lexmex
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Originally Posted by kasak
I stocked up the German castrol and the K&N filters almost an year ago. I just noticed that I am left with a K&N 1003 filter. Will that work? Or should I get the 1002? I don't have the receipt to do the exchange. I take the oil and filter to the dealership and they charge $20-$25. Thanks.
Only thing I worry about is that outside diameter on the 1003 being smaller than the 1002 and that outside edge being not firm on the outer ring shown above, potentially causing a leak. There's, nearly 1/2 and inch difference in the diameter and that is a close call there.

Personally, I'd go with the longer HP-2009, it's basically just an extended version of the HP-1002,

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-1003
Height: 3.3 in (84 mm)
Outside Diameter: 2.69 in (68 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: 0.75
Thread Number: 16
PSI Relief Valve: 11-17
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Removal Nut: Yes
Gasket Material: Nitrile Rubber
Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
Bypass Valve: Yes
Weight: 0.55 lb (0.25 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.5 in (89 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.5 in (89 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.3 in (84 mm)

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-1002
Height: 3.74 in (95 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: 0.75
Thread Number: 16
PSI Relief Valve: 11-14
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Removal Nut: Yes
Gasket Material: Nitrile Rubber
Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
Bypass Valve: Yes
Weight: 0.74 lb (0.34 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.12 in (79 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.12 in (79 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.8 in (97 mm)

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-2009
Height: 5.08 in (129 mm)
Outside Diameter: 2.99 in (76 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: 0.75
Thread Number: 16
PSI Relief Valve: 11-14
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Removal Nut: Yes
Gasket Material: Nitrile Rubber
Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
Bypass Valve: Yes
Weight: 0.75 lb (0.34 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Height: 5.63 in (143 mm)
Attached Thumbnails DIY Oil Change-img_3618.jpg  

Last edited by Lexmex; 11-10-13 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 11-09-13, 08:46 AM
  #50  
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If you are trying to remove an oil filter that has been installed overly tight and can't get purchase on it with an end cap type tool, try putting a 3-4 inch piece of duct tape on the filter. This effectively makes the filter bigger and gives a better grip for your tool.
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Old 02-06-14, 06:35 AM
  #51  
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Hi Lexmex. I just joined this site after purchasing a 2002 RX300 last Saturday. I am really impressed with all of the information on the RX300 and most of all the information regarding the DIY projects. This information in invaluable! Regarding your oil change: I notice you recommended and were using an Engine Flush; a very long time ago (1974), my first car was a rare 1965 (Sept. 1965) Chevrolet Impala SS with a 425 HP 396 CID engine and I would try to keep the engine running at its best. Whenever I changed my oil I would add a quart of Automatic Transmission (GM Type not the F Type) fluid to the engine, drive the car about 5 to 10 miles and then perform the oil change. The main thing I noticed was all of the gunk which would come out and the fact that the oil remained much cleaner, for a longer period of time, than just performing a regular oil change. I did this also on a 1974 Toyota Land Cruiser which had the straight 6 which was based on Chevrolet's straight 6, or so I was told, with the same good results.

Have you ever tried this on a Lexus - the RX300 in particular? I was just wonder what your thoughts may be.

Thank you and all of Club Lexus for all of this outstanding information!!
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Old 02-06-14, 12:51 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by jjbrahma
Hi Lexmex. I just joined this site after purchasing a 2002 RX300 last Saturday. I am really impressed with all of the information on the RX300 and most of all the information regarding the DIY projects. This information in invaluable! Regarding your oil change: I notice you recommended and were using an Engine Flush; a very long time ago (1974), my first car was a rare 1965 (Sept. 1965) Chevrolet Impala SS with a 425 HP 396 CID engine and I would try to keep the engine running at its best. Whenever I changed my oil I would add a quart of Automatic Transmission (GM Type not the F Type) fluid to the engine, drive the car about 5 to 10 miles and then perform the oil change. The main thing I noticed was all of the gunk which would come out and the fact that the oil remained much cleaner, for a longer period of time, than just performing a regular oil change. I did this also on a 1974 Toyota Land Cruiser which had the straight 6 which was based on Chevrolet's straight 6, or so I was told, with the same good results.

Have you ever tried this on a Lexus - the RX300 in particular? I was just wonder what your thoughts may be.

Thank you and all of Club Lexus for all of this outstanding information!!
Welcome to the Club.

Have done that on my RX300 and saw it used quite commonly in Mexico to flush out system (lots of mechanics did that trick). While the ATF is good, the 'good' engine flushes out there to a better job.

It's a little like the old trick I used to see before armor all was common, where people would use brake fluid to get their tires to a nice shine.
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Old 03-05-14, 03:27 PM
  #53  
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I'm new to the Lexus family with a recently purchased 2001 RX300 and I am looking forward to eventually doing my own oil change on this model. I notice that the oil filter is the same as on our 2005 Camry V6 with the 3.3 liter engine, as they are both the same engine family with different displacements.

I am really enjoying the detailed DIY postings that I have found on here so far and am using them to get more educated on common problems and maintenance procedures for the RX300.

I always found it easier to change the filter on the V6 Camry from the top using an end cap filter wrench with a socket wrench as mentioned by others here. I wonder if the access will be the same on the RX300?

As an aside, after a month, my wife is really enjoying the Lexus and its AWD.
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Old 12-31-14, 03:58 PM
  #54  
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Awesome DIY!

Question: I live outside of Chicago, am I better off using 0w30 instead of 5w30? It is around 7-20F degrees right now, will be worse I assume since real winter is not here yet...

Thanks!
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Old 12-31-14, 11:13 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by maorsela
Awesome DIY!

Question: I live outside of Chicago, am I better off using 0w30 instead of 5w30? It is around 7-20F degrees right now, will be worse I assume since real winter is not here yet...

Thanks!
Verify with the user manual, but 5W30 should be Ok for Chicago climate.

Salim.
PS: Wind chill numbers do not apply for vehicles
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Old 01-01-15, 06:18 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Verify with the user manual, but 5W30 should be Ok for Chicago climate.

Salim.
PS: Wind chill numbers do not apply for vehicles
Good call on the wind-chill, but those temps are before applying wind-chill

I will stick with 5w30 then.

I thought that 0w30 makes the oil a little easier to flow when it's very cold.
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Old 01-01-15, 07:05 AM
  #57  
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FYI


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Old 01-01-15, 07:18 AM
  #58  
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Thank you much, good thing I didn't get the 0w30, it's not even listed!
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Old 01-01-15, 08:26 AM
  #59  
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I would think it's fine. If 0W20 works, 0W30 will too. They just keep coming out with new weights that never used to exist.
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Old 01-01-15, 08:28 AM
  #60  
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What do you put in yours, Mr. Ohio?
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