Barryst

Like Salim said before, That idea with the chisel works great. IF you can see the plug from the side view. I have had very good luck doing rusted fasteners this way. Another way is to ***** punch the surface on the outer edge, and "drive the screw out" Same idea as that panel cutter, just slower.

-Quick heat can sometimes work wonders...

barryst

code58

One thing I didn't think about (unfortunately also requires tools you may not have) is to use an air operated file, air saw, die grinder with cut-off blade, a hand hack saw and may be other things in addition, and cut a square edged slot. Then if you had a piece of cold rolled strap that fit in the slot that you made and use a large cresent wrench to back it out (just like a LARGE screw driver in a nice square edged slot about 3/16 wide. If it's that tight regular soft steel might work but cold rolled would do the trick. I have a special type of easy out that I think would do the trick, but it's not worth it to buy them because you have to buy the set and pretty expensive. Have a ton of special tools and would be glad to help if you were local but the most practical would be to let a professional do the job. (and that doesn't mean AAMCO or Pep Boys!!!)

wvuguy

I soaked the bolt in liquid qrench over night and tried to open it with the chisel and hammer but the chisel keeps on eating the metal instead of losening it. Every time I hit it, it cuts piece of the bolt off. I think I am gonna take it to the local shop and have them take care of it.

code58

I agree WVG- That's what I like about the panel cutter and sharpened bit, no removal of metal. That's a tough one though, if you're not used to doing that kind of work, it can really be a challenge with as tight as they put it in originally and then the rust involved with being both steel. It is totally hindsight but the way I would probably try to remove it before there was an attempt would be a socket type allen rather than the one piece and then a long breaker bar or I have a long handled 3/8 ratchet with a flex head, and make SURE it was seated all the way in the allen hole. With something like that I ALWAYS use a special water proof grease on the threads when I go back in. A lot better guarantee it will come out the next time.

salimshah

You give it a good shot. Let some one do it for charge.

The reason it is slicing is that the threads are bonded too strong and that would require a deeper notch, before giving it a twisting blow.

My gut feel is that the mechanic is going to apply heat. Do take the new plug and don't forget the anti-seize.

I am willing to bet it is different composition on the plug and diff, and with time they have electrically bonded.


Keep looking at the bright side, that you did not drain the diff.

Salim

wvuguy

code58,
You are right. I have should have been more careful when attempting to losen the bolt. I have not really delt with a stuck bolt like this before but this is definately a lesson learnt the hard way. If I ever come across a frozen bolt now, I would definately take a more careful approach and keep it from stripping.
salimshah and others, thanks a lot for your help.

tromly

Salim, you're such a positive thinker, always the bright side of the problem

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

This is an easy fix, All you do is go to lexus or toyota and order a new plug which is around 10.00 or so and then weld or have someone weld a nut to the plug and then get a wrench and a pipe on it.

It is very simple to fix.

Good luck.

trhs75

I never thought of welding something to the old plug. That's something I couldn't do myself, but I caould have someone do it for me the next time I'm in a similar pickle! Great idea!!

code58

XSPS has the right idea. I never even gave a thought to welding a nut to the drain plug. An internal weld and SOME external weld should do it. I would use a pretty good sized nut, maybe a 3/4 in. at least, so the nut doesn't round off because of the effort to loosen the plug. If you found someone to do that for you (the welding), I'm not sure I wouldn't have him weld a nut to the new plug also. LOL

wvuguy

I will not found some one to weld yet. Any ideas if jbweld could work? I doubt it since its stuck pretty bad.

lexus114

A++++ for that one xspsi6!!!

salimshah

The drain plug due to vehicle clearance issues needs to be an "innie" [like the navel]. Else when bottoming out, the drain plug can get sheared. Although the filler can be a regular bolt with head, but since the differential is spherical in shape, the easiest seal is accomplished by yet another innie.

Moral: There is always a reason why the things are built the way they are. It can even be cost reducation due to sharing of components etc.

Salim

code58

I don't think JB Weld would ever hold on that. It needs to be welded with a wire welder with 75%argon/25%CO2 gas to keep the heat down as much as possible.

masagsxr

Looks like there is still a little but of corners there for a 10mm driver 3/8 socket to fit in. Insert the 10mm allen, tap it with a hammer a bit, then use a 3/8 ratchet to loosen it.

Like this
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/43300/43244.JPG