Taking fuse out to reset CEL
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I have a 2000 RX30 with CEL on. I was told by my repair shop that I have P0125 and P1135. From this site and other, I did the easy thing first for P0125 by adding coolant to the overflow tank. To see if that works, I follow the instruction at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/4871290-post15.html to take the fuse out for about 10 minutes and put it back. When I start up the engine, the CEL remains on. Should the CEL be off for at least a short time before come back? Or I need to have the fuse out for a longer period?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Welcome to the Club.
When you have that combination, ignore the P0125. The P1135 is related to the bank 1 sensor 1 a/f sensor behind the engine. I'd try disconnecting the battery cables and then see what happens, but if that light still comes on, chances are very high that a/f sensor needs replacing. There are some more advanced OBD2 scanners or even laptop software that could show what is fully going on with the sensors, so you could see the readings and confirm that.
When you have that combination, ignore the P0125. The P1135 is related to the bank 1 sensor 1 a/f sensor behind the engine. I'd try disconnecting the battery cables and then see what happens, but if that light still comes on, chances are very high that a/f sensor needs replacing. There are some more advanced OBD2 scanners or even laptop software that could show what is fully going on with the sensors, so you could see the readings and confirm that.
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Welcome to the Club.
When you have that combination, ignore the P0125. The P1135 is related to the bank 1 sensor 1 a/f sensor behind the engine. I'd try disconnecting the battery cables and then see what happens, but if that light still comes on, chances are very high that a/f sensor needs replacing. There are some more advanced OBD2 scanners or even laptop software that could show what is fully going on with the sensors, so you could see the readings and confirm that.
When you have that combination, ignore the P0125. The P1135 is related to the bank 1 sensor 1 a/f sensor behind the engine. I'd try disconnecting the battery cables and then see what happens, but if that light still comes on, chances are very high that a/f sensor needs replacing. There are some more advanced OBD2 scanners or even laptop software that could show what is fully going on with the sensors, so you could see the readings and confirm that.
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after that just jack up the car(not really necessary but makes it easier, unplug it, take the old one out, put the the anti-seize on the new one (should come with it) screw it in and plug it in, reset your ECU, fire it up, enjoy a cold beer
dont forget the last step!
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If it is the front sensor, I think I can handle it. The guy at the repair shop was telling me that the labor is $90 or $165 is because there is a chance the thread will be ruining when the old sensor is removed due to the way the sensor was first installed.
I tried to order the part from Carson Toyota/Lexus (got the link from another thread in this site) but can't locate the part when I entered oxygen sensor, air fuel sensor or air flow sensor. If I can order the part, I think I can save a bit from their asking price of $240 for the sensor. The shop will do the work if I bring my part in, they just won't warrant the party if something happen.
I tried to order the part from Carson Toyota/Lexus (got the link from another thread in this site) but can't locate the part when I entered oxygen sensor, air fuel sensor or air flow sensor. If I can order the part, I think I can save a bit from their asking price of $240 for the sensor. The shop will do the work if I bring my part in, they just won't warrant the party if something happen.
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If you search for Denso part number 234-9009 you can find it for around $120-$130 on the internet. This isn't a toyota part number but it is the same thing as the OEM sensor.
I would only put OEM back in or you'll risk getting the codes back.
I would only put OEM back in or you'll risk getting the codes back.
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im tellin ya bro, the rear one is kind of a pain but its not bad and i really cant imagine how you could screw up the threads from removing it, i changed mine at close to 200k and im not sure they had ever been changed
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pain meaning uncomfortable or time consuming
not bad referring to difficulty level
lol
i was thinkin about askin you to a lexus IS 300 drive on skyline drive, its far and youd be riding with me but i figured itd be too far for you to drive to not even show off your ride ya know?
not bad referring to difficulty level
lol
i was thinkin about askin you to a lexus IS 300 drive on skyline drive, its far and youd be riding with me but i figured itd be too far for you to drive to not even show off your ride ya know?
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Because the Autozone stores in Calif don't scan/reset DTC any more due to recent law changes. I am thinking about getting an ODB scan tool. Any inexpensive ODB tool that is worth to get? I saw one that sells for $40 at ebay but it doesn't work with cars newer than 2004. The one that works on all car is about $120 on ebay.
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Because the Autozone stores in Calif don't scan/reset DTC any more due to recent law changes. I am thinking about getting an ODB scan tool. Any inexpensive ODB tool that is worth to get? I saw one that sells for $40 at ebay but it doesn't work with cars newer than 2004. The one that works on all car is about $120 on ebay.