RayN

If you drive stop and go with Auto-RX, it takes awhile to seal the leak. Just give it time as everyone says.

jz1219

iTrader: (5)

aint it bad to pour Auto-RX because it can stop any other holes that doesnt needed to be seal??

code58

Auto RX is not a stop leak. It dissolves the varnish and sludge and deposits in an engine and also softens the rubber seals that have become hardened from too much heat. That is the way it seals, not by putting a "sealer" in the engine.

hitthepin

So about 1100 miles now and the leak has essentially stopped.

If it sits in the driveway for 2 days, there may be a spot or 2. Not too shabby. I'm happy with it for the most part and will throw Auto-Rx in again the next change...followed by the maintenance dose after that.

Only question now is, should I go back to synthetic(and no Auto-Rx) once the Auto-Rx cycle is complete....hmmm

Lexmex

But you might want to try a 5W40 or 0W40 or the Castrol 0W30 (since it's heavy 30) before you call it a day.

hitthepin

Lex, I had the German Castrol 0w30 in it when it started leaking. Do you think its wise to start using it again after the Auto-Rx treatment?

code58

I know you asked Lex and not me, but that is a really excellent oil and I don't think in any way contributed to the leak, The earlier one have the problem and in spite of old wives tales, the oil manufacturers claim there is no way that a synthetic will leak when a dino didn't. The high heat in the crankcase cooks the seal and since synthetic is supposed to reduce friction, it would stand to reason that it would be BETTER than dino. Continue with the Auto-RX and then the maintenance and the German Castrol. Just one mans opinion. I think you did very well for the leak to essentially stop in 1100 mi.

hitthepin

Code, all responses are welcome.

I didn't think the German Castrol contributed to the leak cause I've been using it for some time. I'm just curious whether I should return to it once I'm finished with the Auto-Rx treatment.

Mostly wondering if its thick enough compared to other oils, synthetic or dino.

I also wanted to mention, I checked both the oil and trans oil levels religiously after the leak started and I did drain a little bit of the trans oil cause it looked a bit high on the dipstick.

Probably had nothing to do with the seal leak, but figured why not cancel out all possible factors no matter how remote.

code58

When you say high in the dipstick, I'm assuming you mean with all things as they should be (selector, temp, etc.) since you seem to automotive alert. If you look at a blow-up of the tranny and engine you can see that there is no possibility of either having any interconnection with the other. Having had the complete front drivetrain out to do the RMS and TB as well as some other work, I can speak with confidence that isn't possible, but also being a detail person, I can appreciate you covering ALL the bases. I do likewise. I appreciate the parts guy at Lexus (though I ordered the parts online) mentioning the TC seal while I had the engine out to do the RMS. It was not leaking but is cheap and very easy to change while you're doing the RMS. If you saw what the RMS looks like when it starts to leak, you would have a much greater appreciation for the job that the Auto-RX does in cleaning and rejuvenating it. Have to remember that the Castrol you've been using is 30W when it's hot so I think that's heavy enough. I'm not a fan of using heavier oils in fairly modern cars that are for a large part, because of such precise tolerances, designed to run their entire life on rather thin oils.
HTP- I went back and read your earlier posts and noticed you used Penn Plat for the A-RX treatment. I don't use Penn but I thought it was synth. (P.P.) Maybe I am wrong.

Lexmex

GC 0W30 is thick enough, if you want to try another one go with the Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 (practically same price).

hitthepin

Code, thats hefty work you're doing. I'm not even close to being in that league.

A while back I couldn't get a good read on my tranny fluid level so I asked the good folks here and many of the knowledgeable responded on the proper procedure.

The reason I drain a bit of tranny fluid was I felt I might have overfilled it the last time I did the drain and fill. I also read(here) if its between overfilled or a little low, these tranny's do better a little bit lower on fluid versus over. I just made sure it was in between the hot marks cause it was measuring way over that.

Lastly, I only drain a little of it out of pure ignorance. Never had a problem with the RMS. All of a sudden it started to leak and it happened after I had the timing belt changed and I did the tranny fluid on the quick. Knowing its probably not related, I figured its better to maintain the right level of fluid regardless.

hitthepin

Oh...I forgot to respond to this. If I wrote Penn "Plat" in an earlier thread, that was a mistake.

For the Auto-Rx treatment I'm using regular Penzoil 5w-30. I made sure it was dino and I picked up a case for like 20 bucks cause I knew I'm gonna go 2 oil changes at least with the Auto-Rx in it.

hitthepin

Thanks.. I like the GC well enough. This past summer there were some really HOT weeks. I was considering going with a 5w30, but reading the GC is on the heavier side I thought it was alright.

Now I'm not so sure if I should change to something else for the summer months.

Most likely I'm over thinking it and the leak would have happened no matter what I used.

jkg

It Looks like I have the same problem with my 01 RX300(130,000 mi). Is there any downside to using AutoRx?

Lexmex

None that I know of except that it's not 100% foolproof in terms of solving your problem, but I don't know of any negative consequences that I've ever heard or read about.